BendRunner
New member
Had a reputable Landcruiser / 4x4 shop install a new CV and seal and it is leaking. They have tried twice and the seal is still leaking. Any tips I should recommend to them?
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Best method for seating CV Axle seal?
- Thread starter BendRunner
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Buy good seals...the ones with the metal spring in them.
If you don’t have a seal driver set you can get by with finding a piece of pvc from the hardware store. I took my seal with me and ended up using a pvc drain cap or something similar that was the exact size I needed to drive them in.
If you don’t have a seal driver set you can get by with finding a piece of pvc from the hardware store. I took my seal with me and ended up using a pvc drain cap or something similar that was the exact size I needed to drive them in.
having fun
New member
And dont drive the seal all the way in, flush to the housing.
BendRunner
New member
I've heard to use this method, or to put it on the seal on the cv first and then hammer it in. The PVC coupling seems like it might be safer and less likely to damage the seal.
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blackoutt
New member
I've only had good luck with OEM Toyota part in this location. The shaft and housing must be clean and deburred. If the old seal was pried out and scratched the housing it might now seal around the outside. Drive the seal in using a seal driver to FLUSH as others have mentioned, I put a light coating of all purpose grease on the outside to make it slip and possibly help seal better. If reusing the CV you can see it's old running ring on the shaft for more comfort once installed. For new CV it's a guessing game. Be very careful to not tear the seal reinstalling the splined shaft. Is it leaking from the outside of the seal or the shaft/lip seal interface? If from the shaft maybe it's a bad new CV or a worn old CV?
I just went through this issue. It appears that some of the seals are actually larger than they need to be and don't even fit tightly on the axle. If you are referring to the front driver side CV, you will need this exact part:
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle-seal/national-cv-axle-seal/803565_439740_32155
The seal that works is all rubberized on all sides. The seal that leaks has a metal edge that mates with the differential housing. For about a year I could not get the metal edge seal to work on any CV I tried. Now, just changing to the rubberized seal a few weeks ago fixed this problem. Your other option is a factory Toyota seal, which is rubberized.
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle-seal/national-cv-axle-seal/803565_439740_32155
The seal that works is all rubberized on all sides. The seal that leaks has a metal edge that mates with the differential housing. For about a year I could not get the metal edge seal to work on any CV I tried. Now, just changing to the rubberized seal a few weeks ago fixed this problem. Your other option is a factory Toyota seal, which is rubberized.
BendRunner
New member
Thanks for the reply. Swung by the dealer and grabbed an OEM seal. Hopefully 3rd times the charm... Ready to not deal with this anymore.
Just a tip -
Whenever you install a shaft seal or similar - there is a risk that during the process of driving the dumb thing into the hole the shock from hitting the seal can pop that internal tension spring off of the rubber sealing ring. I learned a trick a long time ago from working in diesel shops to fill that void in the back of the seal with either chassis grease (fine with drive axles) or use Syl-Glide from Napa (silicone grease). Filling the back side void will prevent that spring from popping out of there - which is the biggest reason for a failure of a new seal.
Sarge
Whenever you install a shaft seal or similar - there is a risk that during the process of driving the dumb thing into the hole the shock from hitting the seal can pop that internal tension spring off of the rubber sealing ring. I learned a trick a long time ago from working in diesel shops to fill that void in the back of the seal with either chassis grease (fine with drive axles) or use Syl-Glide from Napa (silicone grease). Filling the back side void will prevent that spring from popping out of there - which is the biggest reason for a failure of a new seal.
Sarge
TNFISHRMAN
New member
Another tip when installing seals is to put them in the freezer for 24 hours before installing. The seal will draw up ever so slightly that it is easier to install. I have done this with numerous seals over the years and have never had a seal failure from doing this. After installation you might let the seal warm up to ambient temperature before try to install an axle or some other shaft through the seal.
Nate_tureboy
New member
Fool proof CV Axle install
I've replaced numerous axles in multiple 4runners over the years. Driver's side is no different than the passenger.
One should always double check the spline count (inner and outer) along with shaft end dimensions. Once you're sure you have the correct part you should proceed.
You'll need: 14mm socket or wrenches for the lower ball joint, 34mm axle nut socket, breaker bar or impact gun and torque wrench
1. I recommend greasing the inner splines pretty well first off and having the new axle close by.
IF YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE OLD CV: remove the axle nut (34mm) either use a breaker bar while the wheel is on and tire in good contact with the ground or use your impact on high, it should zip right off.
Then unbolting the lower ball joint (4 bolts @ 14mm), pry, with your thumb, on the end of the axle while pulling the spindle away.
2. Then "swing" the spindle out of the way while holding it with the side of your elbow and simultaneously inserting the new CV Axle, remember to have the new axle close by. It should enter the differential no problem, however you'll need to rotate the axle while pulling outwards slightly. What you're trying to do is "find" the sweet spot where the splines mesh and the axle will move in further and feel pretty secure. If you're able, peek underneath the diff side of the axle and note the gap. Usually the circlip at the diff side of the axle is where we get "hung up."
Many suggestions have been made as to how to get the axle fully seated. I do not care to use hammers or prybars as a faulty swing, missed pry, or otherwise could damage your new axle, CV boots, brake lines, etc!
5. Now simply hold the axle as close to horizontal as possible and "push in" until the axle is fully collapsed against itself...now a good rap with a medium sized mallet to the outer axle end and she will "snap" right in!
It's quite simple and most difficulty lies in, often, rusted and sticky parts. An unprotected outer axle will often leave those splines quite stubborn. Aerokroil or other penetrant will be your new best friend. As often as possible I try to lube up as many bolts/nuts/fasteners as I can at least sometime before any work is to be done, especially suspension, steering, and exhaust components.
I've replaced numerous axles in multiple 4runners over the years. Driver's side is no different than the passenger.
One should always double check the spline count (inner and outer) along with shaft end dimensions. Once you're sure you have the correct part you should proceed.
You'll need: 14mm socket or wrenches for the lower ball joint, 34mm axle nut socket, breaker bar or impact gun and torque wrench
1. I recommend greasing the inner splines pretty well first off and having the new axle close by.
IF YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE OLD CV: remove the axle nut (34mm) either use a breaker bar while the wheel is on and tire in good contact with the ground or use your impact on high, it should zip right off.
Then unbolting the lower ball joint (4 bolts @ 14mm), pry, with your thumb, on the end of the axle while pulling the spindle away.
2. Then "swing" the spindle out of the way while holding it with the side of your elbow and simultaneously inserting the new CV Axle, remember to have the new axle close by. It should enter the differential no problem, however you'll need to rotate the axle while pulling outwards slightly. What you're trying to do is "find" the sweet spot where the splines mesh and the axle will move in further and feel pretty secure. If you're able, peek underneath the diff side of the axle and note the gap. Usually the circlip at the diff side of the axle is where we get "hung up."
Many suggestions have been made as to how to get the axle fully seated. I do not care to use hammers or prybars as a faulty swing, missed pry, or otherwise could damage your new axle, CV boots, brake lines, etc!
5. Now simply hold the axle as close to horizontal as possible and "push in" until the axle is fully collapsed against itself...now a good rap with a medium sized mallet to the outer axle end and she will "snap" right in!
It's quite simple and most difficulty lies in, often, rusted and sticky parts. An unprotected outer axle will often leave those splines quite stubborn. Aerokroil or other penetrant will be your new best friend. As often as possible I try to lube up as many bolts/nuts/fasteners as I can at least sometime before any work is to be done, especially suspension, steering, and exhaust components.
montijo505
Senior Member
Easiest way I've heard of is to use the CV itself to actually drive the seal. Just put the seal on the shaft, put the CV in and it should seat the seal as far as it needs to go.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Berty_K
Member
Few comments:
- Use a 2" PVC coupler to seat the seal. I do not recommend ramming it in with your CV axle.
- Inspect the edge of the differential for rust. For me, rust had caused some bubbling on the inner lip, preventing me from being able to evenly seat the seal. Gently scrape off the rust. I had no issues seating the seal afterwards.
- Use OEM seals. Aftermarket is crap. My aftermarket seals failed after 20k.
- Follow the specs for install depth posted below
j_2000_limited
Junior Member
thanks for the tip
I am gonna attempt this with my 3rd gen transfer case rear output seal as I have all ready busted one attempting to get it to seat.
I am gonna attempt this with my 3rd gen transfer case rear output seal as I have all ready busted one attempting to get it to seat.
