Best Rust Removal/Prevention Supplies?

[OldManKamps]

Hey there, I have a 2000 Toyota 4Runner SR5! My truck has a damn good frame for my area (Southern Ontario, Canada) and I want to keep it that way. Rust is building up on the rear control arm mounts as well as the axle and frame crossbraces. I bought the classic Canadian Tire Rust Remover spray in a can stuff and painted over that but it obviously isn't holding up. What sort of supplies do you guys use for stuff like this? I've heard lots of guys talk about POR15 but I'd like more information about it. Do you guys grind it down first and then POR15 it? Or do you apply it directly on the rust and then paint it? Also, if you could link me to the supplies directly, that would be amazing.
Thanks again!

 

[tee-bone]

A while back I emailed a rep for POR-15 when I wanted to do this on a different vehicle. The following is what he told me, and what I followed. I used a wire wheel on a grinder to get to bare metal.

Make sure the surface is down to bare metal or rust. Properly, clean and prep the surface with our Marine Clean and Prep and Ready. Each product is sprayed on individually, kept wet 10-15 minutes then rinsed thoroughly with water and allowed to dry. You do not have to use a power washer. Simply using a garden hose is fine. Once you have rinsed both cleaner and prep allow the surface to dry then apply 2 thin covering coats of POR-15. You do NOT have to use the silver first. A top coat is only necessary if the POR-15 is exposed to direct sunlight only. If you want to use the Chassiscoat be sure to apply it when the 2nd coat of POR-15 is almost dry, slightly tacky. If you do paint over nuts and bolts with POR-15 it will be very difficult to remove but not impossible. Keep the POR-15 free from bolt threads. The POR-15 will fill the threads and will be difficult to remove. I would order a gallon each of Marine Clean and Prep and Ready, 2 quarts of POR-15 and 2-3 cans of Chassiscoat (optional). The 2 quarts of POR-15 will be enough product to coat up to 100 square feet with the 2 thin covering coats applied.

 

[OldManKamps]

A while back I emailed a rep for POR-15 when I wanted to do this on a different vehicle. The following is what he told me, and what I followed. I used a wire wheel on a grinder to get to bare metal.

Make sure the surface is down to bare metal or rust. Properly, clean and prep the surface with our Marine Clean and Prep and Ready. Each product is sprayed on individually, kept wet 10-15 minutes then rinsed thoroughly with water and allowed to dry. You do not have to use a power washer. Simply using a garden hose is fine. Once you have rinsed both cleaner and prep allow the surface to dry then apply 2 thin covering coats of POR-15. You do NOT have to use the silver first. A top coat is only necessary if the POR-15 is exposed to direct sunlight only. If you want to use the Chassiscoat be sure to apply it when the 2nd coat of POR-15 is almost dry, slightly tacky. If you do paint over nuts and bolts with POR-15 it will be very difficult to remove but not impossible. Keep the POR-15 free from bolt threads. The POR-15 will fill the threads and will be difficult to remove. I would order a gallon each of Marine Clean and Prep and Ready, 2 quarts of POR-15 and 2-3 cans of Chassiscoat (optional). The 2 quarts of POR-15 will be enough product to coat up to 100 square feet with the 2 thin covering coats applied.

This is so helpful! Thank you very much

 

[Philbush1127]

i used por-15 didn't use a wire brush just a needle scaler and an air gun after to removed all dust. then just applied the pro-15 in one good coat in most areas some areas two coats. came out great

sense my truck is silver i used por-15 on the battery tray. came out amazing

 

[volkinator]

I used POR15 on the rear axle. It was easy to apply and clean using their 'system' (degrease, prep, paint) I used the Eastwood rust converter and chassis paint for the rest of the frame. Worst part was the wire wheel on the angle grinder. stuff goes everywhere! But otherwise I did mine in segments. Rear Axle; Rear half frame; Front half frame. this way I didn't run out of material (had to order more for front half) I did 3 coats of rust converter and 3 coats of chassis paint to make sure I had good coverage of both. I think I used 4 cans of each. Not the cheapest option, but it looks amazing. I liked the POR on the axle to fill in some of the craters, and it leaves a nice coating material. I'll probably do it again next year as well.

My last step is some sort of fluid film for winter. I've got a buddy that has a shop/lift that I can use to spray it all down easier. He's got a drum of oil I could probably use as well. Just hoping it works!

 

[OldManKamps]

Ah thanks for the info! Do you have any ballpark figure on the cost?
I'm gonna get my truck undersprayed before the salt comes. There's a shop around the corner from me that'll do it for $99CAD.

 

[Kmurt]

Here's how I do it.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/206564-my-undercarriage-clean-up-pics.html

 

[98OzarksRunner]

POR-15 is good stuff, but it must be applied correctly - absolutely correctly or it will peel off like electrical tape. It is best on rusty metal (and that's all I would use it on). It won't do well over paint since it seals the bare metal (in other words it does nothing for you if you put it over paint). If you don't have rusty metal, sandblast it for a rough surface. Using a wire wheel probably won't give it enough bite to hold. Don't ask me how I know all this stuff.:doh:

 

[OldManKamps]

Sweet! I'll keep that in mind! Do you remember how much paint you had to buy to do the whole undercarriage?

 

[Philbush1127]

Sweet! I'll keep that in mind! Do you remember how much paint you had to buy to do the whole undercarriage?

i used two quarts of black por-15 with a brush

 

[T4R2014]

POR15 is a pain in the ass to use. I just sand until the metal is clean, then apply Rustoleum primer and paint. Nite that it looks pretty, spray the hell out of it with Fluid Film or used oil.

 

[Beaumont67]

Hi there OldManKamps - fellow Ontarian - we differently have the same goal / stop rust, in its tracks.
- a little of my background below, I've been challenged by this task for 4 decades / and had success, against salt corrosion
My system (gained over years of experience) helps de-rusts vehicle, from top to bottom, and significantly slows corrosion down.

I've used POR15 2 decades ago, on truck restoration - won't use it anymore.
- ideally rust should be sandblasted & microscopic rust pits should be neutralized with a "phos" type coating & deprive iron oxide of oxygen
- followed by epoxy primer with hardener
- or covered up with wax-oil spray
Therefore, I have a fundamental problem of "Paint Over Rust - POR15.

aj884runner ^^ Hey Kitchener Buddy, bring it on / I like Nissan's 2 - some clean "Rear End/Ass" shots for you...:biggrin1:
- post up a pic. of your 1999 Pathfinder...lets see what LOVE, she needs

I am self trained in auto body metal fab (rust repair), welding (first learned in HS shop & 2 years at College level) & spray painting (came natural).
- did it every weekend, for 15 years straight, starting when I was in grade12 / while in College & working full time, in Engineering Technology field

Along the way, I learned some secrets in cleaning up rust, and practically stopping it / vehicles I restored, were my DD's (aka guinea pigs).
- and FYI / NO, I never-ever use TremClad cover up temporary enamel...LOL
Currently building a 1200 sq ft garage shop, for auto body sheet metal refinishing, detailing paint work & premium wax-oil spray undercoating jobs.
- located just South of London, ON.

Now the 1989 Nissan Pathfinder I bought used & family driven daily, for 14 years and never garaged / kept Rust Free, all those years.
- it saw lots of salt laid roads, in ON. and sold at 335,000 Km

Just cleaned up & $old (in September) our rust free 2002 Volvo v70 with 297,000 Canadian Km - owned 8 years / still rust free, after 13 years.

Sons 2008 Nissan Rogue SL, with 172,300 Km - up for sale now / Dad cleaned up exterior paint, with Novus kit...& works excellent as a chrome polish.
- use #3 for removing heavy scratches / and follow up with #2 polish
- use #2 for removing light scratches & general cleanup of oxidized paint / polish-sealer leaves paint, silky smooth

Picking up my pride & joy this week - one owner/original paint 2000 SR5 v6, auto with 129,586 Km / my next detail project, will be an easy one - even frame & floor is close to rust free.

Just picked up an extra gallon of Fluid Film, for wax-oil spray undercoating jobs - my 2000 TR4 and sons new 2015 Lexus RX350, next ToDo's.

My current rust proofing system:

a) ^^ Loctite 1-qt- Extend Rust Treatment - One-step rust treatment goes on white and converts rust to a durable, black, metal-protective coating in 10 minutes- Wire brush parts and apply with brush or spray- Surface rust must be present- Use as a primer or finish coat- Resists temperatures to 250ºF intermittent, 200ºF continuous- Capacity Volume: 1 qt- Coverage Color: Black- Temp- Range: 250-0°F [Max]- Full Cure Time Temp-: 30 min 77°F- Base Stress VOC: 110-0 g/L- Specific Gravity: 1-2020- Chemical Compound: Synthetic- Odor: Mild- Applicable Materials: Most Metals- SKU: ORSNO63972
b) Fluid Film - current wax-oil undercoating setup below:

Trialrun - I am really enjoying your mild build...truck rims look awesome & TRD supercharger is just icing on the cake.
Man-O-Man that Limited is beyond mint, right down to the rust free frame rails...could pass for a museum piece.
- couldn't help but admire your cargo buddies (stunning pair)...whats their names & age?
- I've got a Doberman, we drove 25 hours to IL, for the puppy & back to Canada / she owns my wheels
BTW - could you please post an interior photo of the E-locker control / I don't know where to look (console/dash), on mine (?)...just being hopeful.

Been having my cars & 4x4's oil undercoated since the mid 1970's.
- Fluid Film, is the best product I've found / nothing beats wax-oil IMO & just picked up a gallon, of the stuff...more yield (<$), over spray cans
- I found a 50 year old spray gun with a slotted tip, could probably spray bed liner / $20 garage sale find
I'm getting my 2000 SR5 in a week, just waiting on safety check repairs and garage owner friend is letting me use his hoist, to undercoat it.

PS - I'm new to this form & love it / but I do need to talk to a moderator & don't know anyone...so if someone can help, send me a PM...Thks Larry.

And added a cheap air regulator (on left), to reduce garage line pressure.

 

[OldManKamps]

Wow! This is helpful!! Thanks so much for the information man. I decided not to use POR-15, mostly because I can't afford the price tag
I degreased and wipe down the areas I work on. Do my best to get it down to the bare rust. And then I picked up some crappy "Rust Converter" from Canadian Tire and I drench the area in this stuff. 2 coats of it and once it's dry, I rain down Tremclad rust paint on it. Tremclad is really good quality stuff!
What do you think of this method?

 

[Beaumont67]

Wow! This is helpful!! Thanks so much for the information man. I decided not to use POR-15, mostly because I can't afford the price tag
I degreased and wipe down the areas I work on. Do my best to get it down to the bare rust. And then I picked up some crappy "Rust Converter" from Canadian Tire and I drench the area in this stuff. 2 coats of it and once it's dry, I rain down Tremclad rust paint on it. Tremclad is really good quality stuff!
What do you think of this method?

^^ Sounds good - your 2/3rd's done.
- now time to oil spray & seal the sheet metal & frame more, never skip the last & proven step !!

Glad you aborted the POR15 stuff - its messy stuff, takes a good week to even wear off your hands.
- and if your rig was ever oil undercoated once in life, POR15 probably would have eventually pealed off anyway

 

[OldManKamps]

^^ Sounds good - your 2/3rd's done.
- now time to oil spray & seal the sheet metal & frame more, never skip the last & proven step !!

Glad you aborted the POR15 stuff - its messy stuff, takes a good week to even wear off your hands.
- and if your rig was ever oil undercoated once in life, POR15 probably would have eventually pealed off anyway

Do you mean sealing it by undercoating it?
I'm done the frame and undercarriage behind and including the rear axle. I'm also done the bottom of the engine as well as the frame in the front and the full front suspension. I just have to do the frame in the middle of the truck and all crossmembers there! Then I'm going to get it undercoated by a shop. In my city there's a shop that does it for $69.99! I thought that was pretty good!

 

[MSRP.]

Do you mean sealing it by undercoating it?
I'm done the frame and undercarriage behind and including the rear axle. I'm also done the bottom of the engine as well as the frame in the front and the full front suspension. I just have to do the frame in the middle of the truck and all crossmembers there! Then I'm going to get it undercoated by a shop. In my city there's a shop that does it for $69.99! I thought that was pretty good!

I'm more or less doing the same thing with POR15.
But instead of undercoating with the really icky stuff, I've followed the path of others and ordered a bit of Fluid Film, and their 360 sprayer.

Waiting for it to come in, but I'll be doing an annual FF spraydown of the underside from thereon out.

 

[Beaumont67]

OP - Yes oil spray undercoat ASAP - all underneath, inside doors, etc.

I use a meticulous shop (45 minutes drive) charge me $90 for car / $100 for truck.
He is really detailed and did a nice thorough job, hydraulic spray equipment $$ / first time took 1.5 hours.
Subsequent applications took 1.0 hours (as minimum holes already drilled).

There is a licenced garage locally that charges $89 to just oil spray the floor...does a quicky job.
He never opens the hood, doors or trunk lid / what a scam.

$69 to $110 range, ask questions and stand in the shop & time the undercoat job.
Watch the whole setup & application of oil, all panels covered (?)...to your satisfaction.
If you get your money worth, go back again next year.

 

[OldManKamps]

Wait? Undercoating includes the doors and engine bay? I had no idea!
I thought it was just the frame and body underneath!
My frame and body has been undercoated in the past but I'm removing whatever is on the frame in order to rust paint everything that's underneath!
What do you mean minimum holes already drilled?

 

[T4R2014]

Depending on how much salt your government puts down, it is beneficial to have the undercoat(a wax or oil type) sprayed in the doors and rocker areas.

I don't think it is necessary to drill the holes since there are drain holes from the factory, but it might make for easier access when applying more undercoat. I still would not since I hate drilling holes.

 

[OldManKamps]

Depending on how much salt your government puts down, it is beneficial to have the undercoat(a wax or oil type) sprayed in the doors and rocker areas.

I don't think it is necessary to drill the holes since there are drain holes from the factory, but it might make for easier access when applying more undercoat. I still would not since I hate drilling holes.

Ontario Gov't RAINS down salt on the roads. I cringe every time I see those trucks...
I definitely will hitting up the undercoating guys sometime this season. I'm planning on taking this to at least 400,000km
Currently at 330k!