Best way to improve handling?

[KCcarguy]

Hey fellas. Like a lot of you, the break-dive and floaty ride on my sr-5 are starting to bother me. My '05 Taco felt like a BMW in comparison! I looked around on the forum and I looks like Bilstein 5100's w/ the front leveled is the answer. I'm willing to spend a little more $$$ to get the best possible results. I'd also like to keep the lift minimal. So, I have a few questions:

-Is there a benefit to going 5100's on all 4 corners, or am I just wasting money?

-Would a Toytec front coilover kit be better than just 5100's alone? What about the coilovers up front w/ 5100's and factory springs in the rear?

-Would another adding a different set of springs to the 5100's help? I saw Firefighter EMT did this w/ some nice-looking results.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/79394-my-sr5-build-2.html

I'm open to any other suggestions. Thanks! :thumb3:

 

[homeyclaus]

In terms of biggest bang for the buck (and probably effectiveness):

Tires, shocks, then springs.

I think you did your springs already, but the stock Dunlops and Bridgestones have pretty soft sidewalls, and so contribute a lot to the floatyness of the vehicle.

Increase your tire pressure 3 or 4 psi, and if it suddenly feels more responsive, that's the problem.

Of course, adding bilsteins will always make thing better too.

 

[KCcarguy]

Thanks for the advice. I have not added springs yet. I think you were looking at the link I posted, which was another member's ride.....just as an example of what I might want to do.

 

[homeyclaus]

Cool, I just glanced at it.

Coilovers aren't my thing, and I don't think they'll help any more than good shocks and higher rate springs like the overlands or toytecs will in combination - at least for daily drivers.

Unfortunately, I can't lift mine although I'd love my TE to be tighter sprung - I have 1.5" from the top of my roof rack to the yellow bar at one of my client site parkades.

The last thing you can do to improve handling response is to reduce the rolling weight - lighter wheels and tires. Something worth looking into if you're already shopping for tires.

 

[Jtraskell]

In terms of biggest bang for the buck (and probably effectiveness):

Tires, shocks, then springs.

Could not agree more. I also found the OEM ride to be way too soft and floaty. I simply got rid of the OEM Dunlap 4 ply auto tires for Mich 8 ply lite truck tires (Over kill, 6 ply would have been just fine) and most of my "ride" concerns went away. For me, tires were the key. For others, Tires, shocks and maybe even springs will have to be swapped out to satisfy their version of the ride. It is a very personal thing.......be safe.

 

[Toyko]

Agree, my ride has improved significantly after I put on a set of Duratrack tires. The ride is now firm and solid and stopping power has improved too.
I think the OEM tires belong on minivans not trucks.

 

[ct221933]

Thanks for the advice. I have not added springs yet. I think you were looking at the link I posted, which was another member's ride.....just as an example of what I might want to do.

I had the Bilstein 5100 (set on the 3rd notch) in the front and new tires (Nitto Terra Grappler) installed first. The body roll and nose dive noticeably improved.

The shop had the wrong part for the 5100 rear. So I had to return 4 days later to get the rear installed. The ride improvement after installing the rear shocks was marginal.

 

[KCcarguy]

Well, the first thing I'll do is get some better tires. I want to go to 275/70-17 AT's. I'll go Bilsteins next and let you guys know how it works out. Thanks for helpin' a newby.

 

[ninchendo]

Hi all, I am a new owner of a 4Runner SR5. I was able to test drive the trail with KDSS but ultiimately chose a SR5 due to need of a 3rd row seating for my family. It is unfortunate that the trail model does not have that option.

I primarily use my vehicle as a daily driver. However, I do off roading probably every 2-3 months for trips. Usually my off roading trips are not to solely off road, but to get me to spots where I can fish, surf, camp, mountain bike, or hike.

I have had a previous off-road vehicle with a lift, larger tires, and custom bumpers. I found that most of the modified gear I had was either the following:

1) not necessary for the area I was traveling too
2) ended up causing more wear and tear on other parts of the vehicle
3) was just for looks even though I told myself it was functional
4) was super addictive and soon a $1000 lift became $10,000 in upgrades

(this is not meant to offend anyone, this is just for my case only)

It is because of this that I have decided to keep my SR5 as close to stock as possible. However, very similar to the OP, I realized that the ride quality of this 4runner was harsh even on-road. Feels like I am on a waterbed with the nose tipping over every time I brake. This places me in the dilemma if I will have to still add some mods for comfort.

Judging by the previous replies to the op, it seems like a consensus to switch tires, shocks, and then springs. I want to keep everything as close to the stock parameters which leaves me to the following questions (in bold).

I do not plan to change the tires any time soon. I looked into the craigslist market, and the most I could get for them was $200 if I was lucky. I am going to drive them till they wear down. However, I am willing to change the shocks.

I see that most people here suggest the Blisteins 5100 for the front. I see that they are posted on this forum chat thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/165065-5th-gen-4runner-lift-buyers-guide.html

They appear to be sold on Amazon for a good fair rate but they do not have 2016 listed as compatible. Can someone please confirm if these are the correct shocks for my vehicle (2016 4Runner SR5)? I plan to do the install myself, is there any additional connections that I would need?

My understanding is that they are adjustable. I would like less nose dive. Is there an improvement in nose dive from 1.75 and 0.85? Seems like most people change to 1.75 for looks, but I just want to improve feel. Kinda makes sense to raise the front end more, but don't know what point is counterproductive. I looked through this forum thread but they didn't mention about 0.85:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/71661-bilstein-5100-height-settings.html

I do not want an increase in lift. I just want whatever will improve the nose dive. If leveling the vehicle will solve that, I am all for it. I definitely don't want to add spacers if that can be avoided. Furthermore, I do not want to cause more wear and tear on parts including the front differential. Is it recommended (not needed but recommended) to add a front differential drop with the raising of the front end? I read on this following forum thread that you may need to have a differential drop at anything over 2''. However, the replies seem to also contradict and state they added a differential drop anyways even if their lift was less than 2''. The reply also was more directed to a 3rd gen rather than a 5th gen 4runner:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/134850-do-i-need-diff-drop.html

Lastly, one of the replies stated that it also improved the ride with rear Blistein 5100 shocks. Now, my understanding from mechanics of the vehicle is that the rear is mostly supported by springs. Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't the switching of shocks in the rear shocks from stock to aftermarket have very little effect on ride?

I am sorry for all the questions considering this is my first post. This vehicle is fairly new and have spent almost two hours going through the search function through the forums. Hopefully, someone can take it easy on me and answer my questions in 5 minutes to spare me another hour going through the search function. Thank you beforehand.

 

[CF_Machete]

Hey [MENTION=145341]ninchendo[/MENTION], this is probably the most user friendly site I've come across. 4Runner 10 & Up
I'm currently saving up for the full boss kit however I heard the ultimate has better Road manners. Most of the 3-inch lift kits have diff drops, but I've also heard that they are not necessary.

Fyi, Toytec has a discount code posted in their forum section off the main page.

 

[wfo9]

A few answers.

Hell no you don't need a diff drop.

If you want stock.. .leave it alone, that is really easy to do.

If you want a slight improvement in ride. throw on some 5100s with the stock springs. It won't be that much different, but it should be an improvement. This stuff is impossible to quantify, so don't expect anything but a bunch of BS opinions.

You purchased a heavy body on frame SUV. Don't expect razor sharp handling and ride. It should be pleasant, but it is not going to feel like what is available on the market in cross over type vehicles.

For compatibility. Anything for a 2010-? 4runner will work on a 2016. They are all the same. In fact... as far as suspension goes it has been the same since 2003


Edit: Oh yea, tires are a given, but since they are worth nothing as far as resale... goes. I would try shocks first and see if you can live with them until they are worn out. If you plan to go offroad though.... might be worth doing them first.

 

[1engineer]

You will suffer until you get good tires.

 

[Phoenix4R]

Tires, tires, tires, tires.........

 

[carlomagne]

KDSS + Icons + aftermarket tires handle pretty well. I also have a wrx with JIC coilovers that I sometimes drive to work. I tend to drive the 4runner like I'm driving the wrx and accidentally drive the wrx like the 4runner (when hitting dips and going over speed bumps :shocked. The 4runner takes turns pretty well.

 

[mnofpeace]

+1 on the list given, and in that order...

tires...

i went from the stock dunlop rim protectors to some cool, medium spec Cooper A/Ts, and it went from floating to feeling every pebble. You feel the difference in the sidewall stiffness immediately. my SR5 isnt a sports car by any means, but it does drive alot sharper.

Still waiting to get it off road tho...as the Coopers are suppose to be a very good buy for off road use...
Where the Rubber Meets the Road | Expedition Portal

 

[mvent]

Going to bring my 16 SR5 in to dealer next week for service with 3300 miles, I'm not prepared to purchase tires or shocks yet and will have to deal with body roll and nose dive under braking for now, but can't stand the wandering, should I " recommend " that caster be set + 4 degrees?
TIA

 

[philsey]

Going to bring my 16 SR5 in to dealer next week for service with 3300 miles, I'm not prepared to purchase tires or shocks yet and will have to deal with body roll and nose dive under braking for now, but can't stand the wandering, should I " recommend " that caster be set + 4 degrees?
TIA

That worked for me, and many others here. I was lucky and my SM understood what I wanted and why.

Be prepared for pushback like "you're already within specs", etc. And because you are, you may get charged, YMMV. I paid and was happy to do so. And I'd change "recommend" to "require", and "at +4*" to "as near as possible".

Also, get before and after printouts of the specs. Hopefully your service dept will cooperate.

 

[mvent]

Thanks Phil, if they do push back and require payment, I might as well bring it to an alignment specialist and pay them. Hopefully and it will solve my problem.

 

[nb rob]

you might have an alignment specialist at your toyota service department. Don't write them off before you even ask them.

My service manager also drives a 4runner. He also had his caster raised beyond the 2.5 degree spec after I went on about what a difference increased caster made.

For what it's worth, your alignment tech will likely recommend .5 degrees less caster on the driver side to keep you from fighting with the crown of the road. Mine wound up being 3.3 driver side and 3.8 passenger, and the difference on the highway is night and day.

 

[mybabydaddy]

[MENTION=145341]ninchendo[/MENTION] ... In my (not so important) opinion... The following (since you don't want to change tires right now):

Bilstein 5100s on all four corners with the front set at .85. You WILL notice less nose-dive; and the overall ride should stiffen up a little. It won't be like driving one with KDSS, but it should be an improvement from your (current) stock set-up.

Also - everyone else is right... When the time comes, the proper tire will also hep immensely. Stronger tires with stiffer side-walls make a big difference on a BOF SUV.




2014 TEP w/ KDSS / Bilstein 5100s (front at 1.75) / Cornfed 1 inch rear spacers / 265/70 Nitto TG G2s / FN Cntrsteer Type X / RCI Front skid / Yakima Cross bars / NFab Steps