Bilstein 4600 HD Shock Installation (Stock Replacement) - Learn From my Experience

packweco

New member
First off, I couldn't find much information on these shocks to begin with. Looks like most guys are going to a lifted setup, so threads about stock replacement are few and far between. After researching quite a bit, I came to the conclusion that the Bilstein 4600 shocks were the best option for my purposes (light offroad, stock height replacement). I ordered the following part numbers from shock warehouse:

Rear Shock : Bilstein 4600 24-024518
Front Shock: Bilstein 4600 24-187244

Rear Shock Installation:

This was a pain in the ass. The nice part is, the shocks come with everything you need. 4 bushings and 3 washers, the shock, and the nut for the top. The only parts you have to re-use are the washers on the bottom shock mount. To remove the original shock, I ended up having a buddy hold the dust shield with pliers while I turned the seized nut at the top. Eventually the shaft sheared off and the shock came right out. The other option was a sawzall, which I couldn't really even fit up between all the linkages.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Bushing order is the same as stock. I found the only way to get the shock compressed and in place was to jack up the vehicle so that I didn't have to push it up as far. Place the top in the mount hole and use all your might to compress the shock and push it onto the lower stud.



The shock has an allen key socket in the top of the shaft. Anyone that has installed rear shocks knows that there is not a whole lot of room. I ended up putting the allen key in the socket, pushing it against the frame, and turning the nut with an open ended wrench, a quarter turn at a time. Painful. Allen key is shown below.



Fully installed:



Front Shock Install:

This is the part that sucks, mainly because I wasn't prepared. The front shock does not come with all of the bushings and washers for the top. All it comes with is the bottom spring retainer and the nut for the top. When I ordered it I thought "bushings will be on the shelf at the parts store, no problem!". Well, that's not the case. Everyone has the strut mount with the studs, but the bushings normally come with the shock. After a lot of driving around, I ended up with the following:

2x Toyota P/N 90948-01056 (Top bushing for the shock, 1 per side)
2x Monroe 904900 (Strut mount with integrated lower bushing)

The washers for the top and bottom have to be re-used. I think on the stock mount, the lower bushing is actually separate, at least that's what I see on the OEM diagram. They only had 2 at the dealer, so the Monroe mounts seem like they will work out great.

Shocks are at the shop right now transferring the springs because I don't trust the DIY compressors. Front shock removal and installation is fairly well documented and straight forward. But, you basically unbolt the 3 outer nuts on the top, take the bolt out of the bottom, and pull the thing out. After jacking up your vehicle and securing it on jack stands, of course.

Hope this helps someone out, cheers!

UPDATE:

Added pictures of the rear shocks installed. I ended up not using the Monroe strut mates as the guy at the shop said the lower bushings were in good shape. Pics of all of them assembled:



Picture of the top bushing (the one I got from the Toyota dealer):



Picture of the lower bushing:



If you are going to go the OEM route, my research indicated the top and bottom bushings and the top and bottom washers are identical. When installing the front struts, I had to unbolt the LBJ in order to get the LCA to drop down low enough. Even then, it was tough to get the bolt hole to line up at the bottom.

My sway bar end links were in REALLY bad shape, so I ended up replacing those while I was in there as well.

The torque values I used are as follows:

- 3 Upper nuts on the front strut: 47 ft. lbs.
- Lower bolt on front strut: 101 ft. lbs.
- LBJ Bolts 59 ft. lbs.
- Sway bar end link upper nut 18 ft. lbs.
- Sway bar end link lower nut 55 ft. lbs.

Let me know if there are any questions. Not the best step by step guide, but all of the info that I didn't have is in there!
 
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Yes the rears were a pain, it took me a while to figure out how to tighten the top mounts. I ended up jamming the wrench against the frame and tightening the allen shaft with a 1/4 drive ratchet. Same concept though. I'm running OME 906 coils with the 4600. Its a more firm ride but I love it
 
What's the washer/bushing orientation on the top of the rears?

Do you have washer/bushing/washer FRAME bushing/washer?
 
Wish I had seen this post before I installed these into my 98 4Runner using just the original bushing and ended up with a gap between the top hat and the nut on the top of the post. Just bought the recommended bushings from Bilstein, hopefully that solves my issue.
 
^^^
A question for you before I purchase a set of these for the rear. How much down travel you get with these from the resting position? I think it is about 2 inches. If you could, please measure the distance from the center of the wheel to the fender's highest point and then jackup the truck from the tow hitch until the wheel lift-off. Measure the distance again and please let me know the difference. If it is less than 2 inches, I will go with the 5100 series.
Thanks
 
Installation is the reverse of removal. Bushing order is the same as stock. I found the only way to get the shock compressed and in place was to jack up the vehicle so that I didn't have to push it up as far. Place the top in the mount hole and use all your might to compress the shock and push it onto the lower stud.
The rear shouldn't be that hard. Jack up the rear as high as you can, put jack stands under frame, drop rear axle down to full droop. Remove swaybar endlinks. Keep jack under rear axle, just supporting the axle remove one shock (lift or lower axle as necessary to make this easy). When putting new shock on, adjust the height to the rear axle (one side still held with original shock, jack under the diff) to make re-installation easy. Do other side, in the same manner, re-attach swaybar and you are good to go.

edit: Its been years, but I don't remember having much trouble with it at all... Other than those top nuts.

-Charlie
 
Just did the rears on my son in laws 2002 2WD. I used a small size sawsall to cut the rubber and into the shaft, worked great. I used a off set rachet 17mm open end wrench and an Allen wrench to tighten the top, and yes a pain in the arse.

Thanks to original poster for this thread.
 
I couldn't get the top rear nut to loosen. Ended up taking it to a mechanic to do it. I just didn't have enough room to get enough leverage to break it free. My 4Runner has 203k miles on it though and the rear shocks looked to be original to the truck.
 
I went ahead and took the struts over to a friends shop and used his professional spring compressor and knocked em out.

The only issue was getting the bottom bolts back in due to the extended length of the bilsteins compared to the stockers. I put a small bottle jack between the control arm an the frame and jacked it down into place to get the bottom bolt in.

Done
 
Do you have a part number?

I was following this DIY: 4x4Wire - Suspension install on 3rd gen 4Runner (96-02)

And they don't mention the bushings there so I was surprised. Mine may have 310,000kilometers so probably should replace

rear energy suspension bushing part number 8.8102 from amazon
the rest you can cross reference from @shahmedris post

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/210515-proper-line-up-rear-shock-bushings-washers.html

edit correction @shahsmedris
 

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