Bilstein 6112 In

[eredinger]

I just installed the 6112(7,5) /5100/T13 and got 2.5" in the front and 1 in the back. Hope this helps. I also added the 10mm spacer to the driver rear spring to level it out.

I own a 2011 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 w/ X-REAS and I do NOT have KDSS. Stock rims and tire sizes at P245/60R20. As of right now, I have oil leaking out of all 4 stock shocks/struts and because of it having the X-REAS system, the dealer wants roughly $4,000 to replace all 4. That's not happening. What I'd like to do is just remove the X-REAS system and replace with aftermarket shocks/struts/springs. I know it can be done and I'm looking at purchasing everything I need and either doing the install myself or taking it somewhere to do. Either way, I'd like to purchase all the parts together from one spot.

I have been on this forum reading TONS of forum posts on this topic and I believe I have it narrowed down. I want to give my rig a slight increase and height while keeping this down to a lower cost overall compared to replacing everything stock. I'm not looking to lift more than about 1.5", am going to be keeping stock rims/tires for now (but would like a more wider look to bring out tires to wheel well at a later time) and overall, I'm after a more level "look" and stance of the 4Runner. This is a daily commuter on road and will never be used off-road except for a yearly trip riding on the beach at OBX.

All of that said, I have it narrowed down to the following:

1. Bilstein 6112's up Front
2. Bilstein 5160's in Rear
3. Wheeler's T13 Rear Springs (1.5")
4. Billet Reservoir Clamps for Bilstein 5160's (x2)

My question for you guys before I order is around the 6112 circlip settings and my overall lift height max that I'm after of about 1.5" with a leveled look overall. If I'm getting the 1.5" springs in rear, what circlip settings should I set for both Driver and Passenger side of the Bilstein 6112's? From looking at the install diagram of the 6112's, it looks like I would need a Drivers side circlip set at #4 and Passenger side circlip at #3 for a lift of 1.5" up front. That combined with the 1.5" spring in rear would give me 1.5" overall, correct? Would that give me a leveled look as well?

Thanks for the assistance all!

 

[honda250xtitan]

Here’s the updated KDSS and Non KDSS settings

hmm i definitely did not get 2.7" of lift. Gonna hit up the 7th setting though soon as i get some DirtKing uppers.

Loving the 6112's for what we use the van for....wife daily driving for work, and occasional camping trips:hippie:

 

[Judd94]

hmm i definitely did not get 2.7" of lift. Gonna hit up the 7th setting though soon as i get some DirtKing uppers.

Loving the 6112's for what we use the van for....wife daily driving for work, and occasional camping trips:hippie:

I’m guessing you have KDSS for the 2.7 setting.
I just installed mine yesterday non-KDSS at 1.6 and it’s pretty spot on. I put Dobinsons 599s in rear and got 1.75” of rear lift and should only be 1.25” before settling. Hopefully rear settles at least 1/2”. Only wanted the 1” rear lift.
These 6112s ride so much better on these crappy Louisiana roads, body roll is better and the nose dive is much better and feel like it’s a lot more stable during hard braking.

 

[honda250xtitan]

I’m guessing you have KDSS for the 2.7 setting.
I just installed mine yesterday non-KDSS at 1.6 and it’s pretty spot on. I put Dobinsons 599s in rear and got 1.75” of rear lift and should only be 1.25” before settling. Hopefully rear settles at least 1/2”. Only wanted the 1” rear lift.
These 6112s ride so much better on these crappy Louisiana roads, body roll is better and the nose dive is much better and feel like it’s a lot more stable during hard braking.

yea, maybe its at the 2.4 setting though. i forget what i put them at lol

 

[MrH42]

I have a set of these and 5160s sitting in the garage. I heard good things, but ended up selling the 4runner before installing. Just trying to get to 20 posts now so they can go to a good home. Glad to see everyone is liking them.

 

[clemsonxplorer]

I have a set of these and 5160s sitting in the garage. I heard good things, but ended up selling the 4runner before installing. Just trying to get to 20 posts now so they can go to a good home. Glad to see everyone is liking them.

How much trying to get for them? What height are they set at?

 

[MrH42]

How much trying to get for them? What height are they set at?

I'm guessing I'll post them for $630 or best offer.

46-227294 - 6112 shocks plus springs

25-227611 - 5160s for the rear

Prefer local pick up. Don't have the original box. I basically took them out, clear coated them, and they've sat on my garage shelf sense.

 

[Judd94]

Anybody know if the 6112s can be adjusted without removing them? I’m thinking if I used the no compressor method and loosen the LCA bolt?

 

[honda250xtitan]

I'm guessing I'll post them for $630 or best offer.

46-227294 - 6112 shocks plus springs

25-227611 - 5160s for the rear

Prefer local pick up. Don't have the original box. I basically took them out, clear coated them, and they've sat on my garage shelf sense.

I know someone in AZ who'd wanna buy the whole setup.

 

[MAST4R]

6112 with linear/progressive rear

I know someone in AZ who'd wanna buy the whole setup.

I am quoting you because you seem to know a few things but it is a question for everyone.]

I was told by ShockSurplus, I think it was them, that a number of their customers use 6112 with Fox in the rear. Then I read about more people doing that.

The question is, when actually used offroad, not for racing speeds, but good speeds in the desert, is a mixed setup ok?

When I bought my OR I thought I would go 6112/5160. Then I learned more and walked from the digressive setups altogether. But the longevity and robustness of the 6112 still appeal to me (and also the price). Basically, I would rather replace once every 60-80k than rebuild the front every 30-40.

But the rear is a non-issue with some extra service, including rebuilding.

So I am curious if 6112 can be paired fruitfully with, say, Radflo 2.5IFP rear or and adjustable 2.0RR rear that is valved specifically for me. Or is this just a ridiculous idea? Again, lots of offroad, some decent speeds in the desert, don't want to be limited to 15 on rough dirt roads by the bouncy OEM suspension, but no racing either.

 

[Bayou_Pro]

I am quoting you because you seem to know a few things but it is a question for everyone.]

I was told by ShockSurplus, I think it was them, that a number of their customers use 6112 with Fox in the rear. Then I read about more people doing that.

The question is, when actually used offroad, not for racing speeds, but good speeds in the desert, is a mixed setup ok?

When I bought my OR I thought I would go 6112/5160. Then I learned more and walked from the digressive setups altogether. But the longevity and robustness of the 6112 still appeal to me (and also the price). Basically, I would rather replace once every 60-80k than rebuild the front every 30-40.

But the rear is a non-issue with some extra service, including rebuilding.

So I am curious if 6112 can be paired fruitfully with, say, Radflo 2.5IFP rear or and adjustable 2.0RR rear that is valved specifically for me. Or is this just a ridiculous idea? Again, lots of offroad, some decent speeds in the desert, don't want to be limited to 15 on rough dirt roads by the bouncy OEM suspension, but no racing either.

I'm no expert be any means but I wouldn't think you'd want to mix progressive and digressive shocks on the same vehicle.


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[MAST4R]

I'm no expert be any means but I wouldn't think you'd want to mix progressive and digressive shocks on the same vehicle.


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That's what I was thinking, but looking at Tacoma World, people mix and match both front and rear and like it. An ICON person on that forum also said it is fine to mix their shocks with linear shocks (though their 2.0 are linear on compression).

For now, I am just toying with ideas.

You are right, I have no idea how it would feel offroad at some speed. But it is been done frequently, so I wonder what people's offroad experiences have been.

The point is that a 6112/Radflo 2.5IFP rear is very appealing to me for these reasons:

--long lasting front; servicing rear is way easier;
--rear shocks valved for me, specifically with the kids in mind
--that the front is stiffer is not as big of a concern, improved handling is good
--good price, big, capable shocks, no worries with reservoirs.

 

[MAST4R]

I'm no expert be any means but I wouldn't think you'd want to mix progressive and digressive shocks on the same vehicle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Come to think of it, I guess a clear downside of all mixing and matching is resale, as with everything else that is (too) customized.

 

[Bayou_Pro]

That's what I was thinking, but looking at Tacoma World, people mix and match both front and rear and like it.
You are right, I have no idea how it would feel offroad at some speed. But it is been done frequently, so I wonder what people's offroad experiences have been.

My biggest concern with this is that yes they say it great, they like, and it performers great BUT do most of these same people have enough experience to really know what it's supposed to feel like. What you just spent a bunch of money on and you think feels great may be complete junk to someone that really knows what they are doing. Again I'm no expert of off-roading just posing the question.

--long lasting front; servicing rear is way easier;

Once you've done the "no spring compressor" install of the front it's really not much difference. At this point I can have the front coilover dissembled and ready for service in less then 10 minutes.

--rear shocks valved for me, specifically with the kids in mind
--that the front is stiffer is not as big of a concern, improved handling is good
--good price, big, capable shocks, no worries with reservoirs.

Agreed!!

 

[drbax]

2014 LE 6112 Settings

I own a 2011 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 w/ X-REAS and I do NOT have KDSS. Stock rims and tire sizes at P245/60R20. As of right now, I have oil leaking out of all 4 stock shocks/struts and because of it having the X-REAS system, the dealer wants roughly $4,000 to replace all 4. That's not happening. What I'd like to do is just remove the X-REAS system and replace with aftermarket shocks/struts/springs. I know it can be done and I'm looking at purchasing everything I need and either doing the install myself or taking it somewhere to do. Either way, I'd like to purchase all the parts together from one spot.

I have been on this forum reading TONS of forum posts on this topic and I believe I have it narrowed down. I want to give my rig a slight increase and height while keeping this down to a lower cost overall compared to replacing everything stock. I'm not looking to lift more than about 1.5", am going to be keeping stock rims/tires for now (but would like a more wider look to bring out tires to wheel well at a later time) and overall, I'm after a more level "look" and stance of the 4Runner. This is a daily commuter on road and will never be used off-road except for a yearly trip riding on the beach at OBX.

All of that said, I have it narrowed down to the following:

1. Bilstein 6112's up Front
2. Bilstein 5160's in Rear
3. Wheeler's T13 Rear Springs (1.5")
4. Billet Reservoir Clamps for Bilstein 5160's (x2)

My question for you guys before I order is around the 6112 circlip settings and my overall lift height max that I'm after of about 1.5" with a leveled look overall. If I'm getting the 1.5" springs in rear, what circlip settings should I set for both Driver and Passenger side of the Bilstein 6112's? From looking at the install diagram of the 6112's, it looks like I would need a Drivers side circlip set at #4 and Passenger side circlip at #3 for a lift of 1.5" up front. That combined with the 1.5" spring in rear would give me 1.5" overall, correct? Would that give me a leveled look as well?

Thanks for the assistance all!

My 2014 LE has the leaking XREAS like yours did. I plan on going with the same setup as you did as a replacement. Curious what circlip settings you went with and how much lift you ended up with in the front? Thanks

 

[Zoom-a-Loom]

Has anyone found & used a protective boot for the front 6112 strut. Why would Bilstein not provide or think a protective boot be of some benefit. The seal head can be compromised quickly.

 

[CROWN14]

Has anyone found & used a protective boot for the front 6112 strut. Why would Bilstein not provide or think a protective boot be of some benefit. The seal head can be compromised quickly.

I’ve yet to see anyone run a boot or cover over the strut. The shock is inverted (wiper facing up). Surrounded by the spring anything that gets in will be low impact “usually”. More importantly you want it to find it’s way out.
In the rear people sometimes run a boot (old school). More common is a shin guard to protect the chrome ram.

 

[Zoom-a-Loom]

I’ve yet to see anyone run a boot or cover over the strut. The shock is inverted (wiper facing up). Surrounded by the spring anything that gets in will be low impact “usually”. More importantly you want it to find it’s way out.
In the rear people sometimes run a boot (old school). More common is a shin guard to protect the chrome ram.

My concern is mud on the strut shaft. The 4600's I have on the front have boots so it make sense to have a boot. Seeing what mud does to the front forks & rear shock on my dirt bikes, the life span of the seal head of the strut will be greatly reduced.

I have been searching and have found several that may work, the clearance between the strut body (60mm) and inner diameter of the spring is the factor. A bellows type boot may not provide enough clearance to the ID of spring. A smooth style boot similar to the factory Toyota 4600 blue boot is needed.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-e4sr1z012a01

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-e4-b30-650n1