Blackstone report, what does it all mean??

mendozer

Member
Did one of these for the first time at my 154k oil change and aside from reading levels to below the "guidelines", what worth is there to this? The tech commented that could try 4500 intervals to see what changes. He mentioned that I put 5.5 qts in and it should be 5 qts. But whenever I change oil, I usually end up adding in 5.5. Maybe it's my vehicle's variation.

I honestly sometimes go 3k, sometimes 5k between intervals, depends if I remember to do my oil or forget until the next week. I use my stickers on my windshield as my reminders. I was hoping to extend it to 5k-7500 miles. They also stated that while I use Valvoline full synthetic, I could most likely save a few bucks and do the Maxlife syn blend.

Anyone else have experience using Blackstone?
 
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It lets you know a lot. The link below will help you understand the benefits of running an oil analysis. Btw, I put 6 quarts in. 5.5 quarts never brings me to the upper part of the full mark on the dipstick. I did an oil analysis at a 3000 mile interval and my oil was in great shape. I use a Castrol 5w-30 synthetic blend. Out of curiosity, I'm going to change my oil at 5000 miles and do another sample to see the level of additives left in the oil. Ultimately, I'm probably just going to switch to full synthetic and do my oil changes every 5k.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/
 
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Had it done on the wife's 06 CRV because it was consuming large quantities of oil between changes. Precious metal quantities and contaminants in the oil compared to norm were the things I looked at. You have to study it some. The results weren't alarming so it helped us decide to hold on to it longer (185,000mi.)

Hope this helps some.
 
I've been using them at every oil change on all my cars for the past few years. I've been doing 6k intervals on the 4Runner with Mobil 1 Extended Performance for a while. The past couple samples came back with high aluminum and iron content, so we're keeping an eye on it. I just sent one in with a 3k oil change interval to see how it changes. They will let you know if something doesn't look right and make suggestions to diagnose it. They recommended the 3k interval. Overall they provide peace of mind and can help diagnose a developing problem before it becomes a major issue.
 
Ultimately, I'm probably just going to switch to full synthetic and do my oil changes every 5k.
I've seen enough UOA's on the oil I run (Rotella T6) on many different engines to have confidence I could probably go 10k on oil changes (I also use the larger Landcruiser filter). I stick with 5k OCI's on all my cars through. Very easy to remember when they are due! Oh, and the factory "severe use" interval is 5k miles.

5.5 quarts is the oil change w/ filter, according to the owners manual. I put in 6 and it is *slightly* over the max line, which is fine...

-Charlie

PS. This is the inside of a 5k mile OCI motor from new with conventional oil and whatever filter the shop wanted to put on for 270k+ miles (family owned with records). I switched to the Rotella T6 after I took it over from my sister.
I couldn't expect anything better:

XJCZwMXh.jpg
 
It's a dangerous thing responding to an oil thread but here I go.

Synthetic are great in the fact that they last longer, meaning you spend less time changing oil. Some engines can gain some MPG's from synthetic but ours does not so don't expect to save at the pump. I use an oil that can go 15k miles or 1 year, so I just do it once a year since that normally comes up first. Just be sure you use an filter that's also rated to last as long as the oil.
 
What exactly is the value of this service if the owner changes his oil every 5k, never lets it run low and does all the other maintenance to keep the truck tip top?

I’m sure this will bring some pushback but I don’t see what I could actually do that would be worth the dollars to risk (risk of wasted $ on needless repairs) if a sample says you have levels that are bad.

These engines are for the most part not really tunable. Valve adjustments? No Toyota recommendation, at least posted around here, covers “mechanical upper block adjustments to make it run better”

The heads and lower block ... these are essentially a closed system. When the heads go bad you do a swap, a refurbish or replace them.

Preventing a major problem before it occurs, based on an oil reading?

For example I have an engine that is new to me for about 20k miles now. I hope for the best but short of fighting sludge what would I actually change? I am not going to make any changes on an engine that is running fine. A bad reading would just fill me with dread. I’d rather just change the oil and drive as long as it goes. If it starts to have a problem the truck will let me know.

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What exactly is the value of this service if the owner changes his oil every 5k, never lets it run low and does all the other maintenance to keep the truck tip top?
I personally see no need on a motor like the 5vz. On any number of performance motors or motors where bearing or other wear issues are more likely, it can give you an early heads-up when things are going south - which means cheaper repairs.

It is much better to rebuild a motor before flakes of metal get sent through the whole motor or before the coolant and oil mix from a bad head gasket...

The other way to use it is to figure out your max oil change interval. Like I said already, I bet you can go 10k miles (for normal driving, not 4LO off roading) with the right oil/filter on the 5vz. Half the oil changes = win! I have no proof (haven't done any tests) so I don't yet do longer drain intervals.

-Charlie
 
I've seen enough UOA's on the oil I run (Rotella T6) on many different engines to have confidence I could probably go 10k on oil changes (I also use the larger Landcruiser filter). I stick with 5k OCI's on all my cars through. Very easy to remember when they are due! Oh, and the factory "severe use" interval is 5k miles.



5.5 quarts is the oil change w/ filter, according to the owners manual. I put in 6 and it is *slightly* over the max line, which is fine...



-Charlie



PS. This is the inside of a 5k mile OCI motor from new with conventional oil and whatever filter the shop wanted to put on for 270k+ miles (family owned with records). I switched to the Rotella T6 after I took it over from my sister.

I couldn't expect anything better:



XJCZwMXh.jpg



Any reason you switched to an oil advertised for diesels? I have used T6 in the past on my turbo Mustang and a lot of guys with turbos love that stuff. Never thought of using it in the 4Runner


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Any reason you switched to an oil advertised for diesels? I have used T6 in the past on my turbo Mustang and a lot of guys with turbos love that stuff. Never thought of using it in the 4Runner
Started off with using it in my WRX and now Outback XT (similar EJ turbo motors). Reduced oil consumption was the big reason there, along with more protection for the bearings. Oil consumption on the WRX went from ~1qt every 2k miles to 1qt every 5k miles, which is quite good for a built motor with forged pistons. The Outback uses under 1/2 qt per 5k change, which is basically unheard of for a 100k+mile EJ25...

It meets the requirements of most gas motors too (API SN - the 4Runner calls for SJ, which is an older version of the same spec), up until a recent change in the classification but not formula.

So, all the vehicles in my 'fleet' use the same oil (and I use the same filter on the Camry 3s-gte and 5vz-fe now too) making my life a bit more simple, while adding extra protection all around. The only downside is a (maybe) slight decrease in MPG.

-Charlie
 
Started off with using it in my WRX and now Outback XT (similar EJ turbo motors). Reduced oil consumption was the big reason there, along with more protection for the bearings. Oil consumption on the WRX went from ~1qt every 2k miles to 1qt every 5k miles, which is quite good for a built motor with forged pistons. The Outback uses under 1/2 qt per 5k change, which is basically unheard of for a 100k+mile EJ25...



It meets the requirements of most gas motors too (API SN - the 4Runner calls for SJ, which is an older version of the same spec), up until a recent change in the classification but not formula.



So, all the vehicles in my 'fleet' use the same oil (and I use the same filter on the Camry 3s-gte and 5vz-fe now too) making my life a bit more simple, while adding extra protection all around. The only downside is a (maybe) slight decrease in MPG.



-Charlie



Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
and while our engines may not be tuneable, I sought the report because ....why not? While I don't understand the values fully, there are smart guys and gals on here that do. If 28 bucks gives me piece of mind, then it's worth it, hell maybe even one report per year.

Also, I have yet to figure out a grinding noise when driving and it's sporadic so this was one more test to see of something weird was going on with the engine
 

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