Blew the top of the radiator off

JHILDE

Junior Member
My girlfriend has a 1997 4runner 3.4 v6 with 280,000 miles. She bought it with 150,000 and has done little service to it since. Prior to the day in question I heard some rattling from under the hood and checked the fan clutch. It was bad , I could hold it with my hand and start the car or stop it with a newspaper, so it was replaced. The next day she called me and said "my car exploded" so I grabbed a car hauler and went to where she was. She had left the house on a cold 36-40f day and made it about 15 miles. The top of the radiator cracked and broke mostly off, basically all that was left was the upper hose connection. I replaced the radiator, cap, and thermostat and refilled it with coolant with my lisle radiator funnel to try to get any air bubbles out. I ran it for about 30 minutes with the heat on high and did not see anymore bubbles coming out but was still not getting heat inside the car.

I used a garden hose and flushed the heater core out and it was mostly clean. I refilled the system and still didn't get any heat. The dash gauge remains in the middle the entire time after it has warmed up. I put the new radiator cap on and took it for a drive. About a mile down the road (55mph road) I notice the gauge starting to creep up so I turn around and head home. By the time I get home the gauge is to the red and the rad is bubbling into the overflow by the time I stop at the house. I let it cool and try to burp the system again but have no luck. I notice that while the engine is idling the coolant level rises and falls in the funnel but no bubbles come out.

So the question is what is left? Could the water pump have been rattling and the fins have broken off? There is no apparent coolant leaking from the weep holes.
 
Register to hide this ad
Just a thought...

Check your "new" fan clutch.

I had a 81 that I replaced EVERY coolant system part trying to chase an overheat issue. Turns out it was the newly replaced fan clutch (autozone part) that was bad when I bought it.

If it's aftermarket, it could be bad.

If your water pump is broken and that caused the rattle, it would still be rattling. You've got 280K, when did you last replace the Timing Belt and Water Pump?

Also, you could try parking on a slight incline to try to get more bubbles out.
 
Upper and lower hoses getting hot? If so, pop the radiator cap off while trying to burp the system and have someone rev it up to 2.5-3k or so. Increased coolant flow from the RPM increase will help force bubbles out if they're in there.
 
Just a thought...

Check your "new" fan clutch.

I had a 81 that I replaced EVERY coolant system part trying to chase an overheat issue. Turns out it was the newly replaced fan clutch (autozone part) that was bad when I bought it.

If it's aftermarket, it could be bad.

If your water pump is broken and that caused the rattle, it would still be rattling. You've got 280K, when did you last replace the Timing Belt and Water Pump?

Also, you could try parking on a slight incline to try to get more bubbles out.

I thought of the new fan clutch so I checked it and it's good. I tied parking on a slight incline and nothing, parked in the ditch with the front tires up on the culvert for the driveway so the the back bumpier was almost dragging, still no air. I have never replaced the water pump or belt but she got it with about 180k on it so I would think it has been done before.

Upper and lower hoses getting hot? If so, pop the radiator cap off while trying to burp the system and have someone rev it up to 2.5-3k or so. Increased coolant flow from the RPM increase will help force bubbles out if they're in there.

They get warm with the cap off, I checked the coolant temp with a probe down into the funnel and top of the radiator. About 190 degrees. I tried revving it 2k-4k but all that seems to do is make the coolant level raise in the funnel. Once the coolant goes up it doesn't go all the way back down. Coolant seems to surge up and down into the funnel but there are no bubbles.
 
Last edited:
Is it in the correct orientation? I've heard of them getting hot if the thermostat is oriented wrong. Can't remember where it's supposed to be tho...sorry
 
Yeah as far as directionally it will only go in one way because of the housing. The jiggle valve is at the 6:00 position. I'm leaning toward something happened to the impeller on the waterpump. Has anyone ever seen that? When you rev it there does not seem to be a ton of coolant rushing out of the top hose.
 
So it will idle for 30 plus minutes without starting to overheat but if you take it out on a drive the temp starts to creep up and you still don't get heat from the hvac?
 
So it will idle for 30 plus minutes without starting to overheat but if you take it out on a drive the temp starts to creep up and you still don't get heat from the hvac?

Exactly. It had prob idled for 1hour at one time (with the cap off, rad funnel on to try and get bubbles out) and still would not overheat but the second you out the rad cap on and drive down the road it overheats but no heat from HVAC
 
Last edited:
Yeah as far as directionally it will only go in one way because of the housing. The jiggle valve is at the 6:00 position. I'm leaning toward something happened to the impeller on the waterpump. Has anyone ever seen that? When you rev it there does not seem to be a ton of coolant rushing out of the top hose.

I have seen where elcetrolosis has caused the fins to corrod away. And it's probably time for a timing belt anyways so just do a timing belt kit that comes with the tensioners and water pump. That's what I would recommend.
 
I'm leaning toward something happened to the impeller on the waterpump. Has anyone ever seen that?

I've seen water pump impellers that were loose on the shaft, and wouldn't pump coolant through the system properly, as a result. That seemed to be fairly common on V6 Ford Contour's and Mercury mistakes.. oh I mean Mystique's. :D
 
Update:
So yesterday I was able to tear into it to take the pump off to see if it needed replaced. (Working 12 hour shifts with a 45 min commute doesn't leave much time on the days I work) Everything went smoothly until I got the timing belt off the water pump. I did note that the timing belt appeard a little glazed over on the smooth side but I chalked that up to it being old and not knowing how many miles were on it. Then I notice some bluing on the water pump pulley. I pull the pump and it is completely seized. I have no idea how it would sit there and idle for so long and still keep cool and not have any belt squeal. I am guessing that once the thermostat opened the heated water would rise and the radiator was cooling it off enough with the cool outside temps to make it circulate some.

Now to wait on the Aisin pump kit to come in that I got on Amazon.

That crank pulley/dampener bolt is a real chore. I got it off with some ingenuity but I'm not sure how I'll get it to stay still while I Tourqe it back down.
 
I had my radiator blow the top off too while on a trail. No fun sliding down a mountian with no power stering or brakes. Just before it blew the temp guage went up, but didnt show it getting excessivly hot. Also just before the radiator blew the light for oil temp came on. Im ordering an all metal radiator, thermostat, and hoses to switch out. Has anyone else had this problem and asking if I should be switching anything else out? Thanks.
 
Original parts probably huh? If the tank was brown vs. gray then yeah it was really old. Something caused the temp to increase enough to crack or finish cracking the tank. Might want to look into what caused that too. If original tank then other stuff maybe too like cap, fan clutch, thermostat (they can stick partly closed seeming ok until they don't open enough and cause overheating).

High oil temps ain't good either but I guess the oil cooler couldn't do it's job without any coolant flowing through it, I'd change oil too.... Luck and enjoy colo weather! :cowboy:
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,317
Messages
3,554,129
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top