Body lift...what to get?

[auxiliary]

Ok time to order a body lift. i was thinking about just going with toytec because I have ordered from them before and was happy. Just curious to know if anyone has any other experience with other lifts. I only want a 1 inch to just raise it a little before I do bumpers and sliders.

Any comments, ideas?

 

[Mr. Leary]

4crawler.com

Roger Brown has been making these for a long time and has a reputation for excellent products.

 

[brian2sun]

I 2nd 4crawler - that's what I have, but toytec is a great company too. For a 1" you won't need anthing but the pucks, longer bolts, and nuts. I took my lower radiator shroud off (which took seconds to remove) and I loosened the linkage on the tranny before installation and tightened it back up afterwards.

 

[Stone5_T4R]

I have a toytec on its way to me now. Planning on installing this weekend if I get it by Friday.

 

[auxiliary]

The 4crawler website sucks. It's really confusing to me .... And I don't like supporting guys that make horrible websites. Lol

 

[Ron Helmuth]

be constructive then

x4 on the 4crawler.com product offerings. I just did it and would do it again in a heartbeat.

His support for his products is outstanding. I had questions and he answered them practically in real time.

Being a 5 speeder like me- you can expect some shifter binding. I solved this by removing the 4 (brass?) -shifter metal plate cover screws (underneath the rubber boots). Before I did that 2nd and 4th were quite stiff to engage and wanted to pop out of gear.

You will need the radiator shroud drop brackets. You'll be working with the body mounts as well- so consider going with the poly body mount replacements as well. You'll double your cost or more, but likely enjoy a much more comfortable ride. Verify your mounts before ordering-2 of mine were non- standard.

Steering shaft extension is a must.

The amount of detail in his website is a bit overwhelming I would be first to admit. If you can constructively see a way to better organize his ordering process or information then just drop him a note. He might appreciate it and adopt your suggestions. Which would then benefit you and everyone else ordering after you.

Read up on every detail of the install to know what you are getting yourself into. Every inch you body lift encounters some additional issues.

Anything you order and don't need can be returned. He does not gouge on shipping.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Ok time to order a body lift. i was thinking about just going with toytec because I have ordered from them before and was happy. Just curious to know if anyone has any other experience with other lifts. I only want a 1 inch to just raise it a little before I do bumpers and sliders.
Any comments, ideas?

Well, I have more of a question than a comment:

Why are you doing a body lift and not a suspension lift? IMO body lifts are for people who want a vehicle that looks taller but doesn't have any additional capability. If you're adding bumpers and sliders to your 4runner, then I assume you plan to take it off road, right? (Why else would you get sliders?)

So wouldn't a suspension lift be a better plan? You can get a basic OME suspension lift for ~$600 that will give you improved off road handling, and there will be no need for extending shifters, steering column, or any of the other mods you have to make when putting on a body lift. You can get a spacer lift for ~$250 or maybe less.

Just my personal preference, I guess, but I don't get body lifts. Yes, they're supposedly cheaper than a suspension lift but by the time you deal with all the problems that a body lift brings (steering, transmission, t-case linkage, fuel tank, bumpers, etc) it seems a simple suspension lift (even a "spacer" or "puck lift") would be easier, cheaper, and result in a better looking vehicle.

EDITED TO ADD: I see from your sig that you already have a suspension lift. What gains will 1" give you? Wouldn't going to longer or heavier springs give you the same result a lot easier?

 

[Shoke]

Being a 5 speeder like me- you can expect some shifter binding. I solved this by removing the 4 (brass?) -shifter metal plate cover screws (underneath the rubber boots). Before I did that 2nd and 4th were quite stiff to engage and wanted to pop out of gear.

What are the plate cover screws you're referring to?

I am having a little bit of a bind when going into 2nd gear. I never had this issure until I had my transmissions fluids drained and refilled. Maybe this could help the resolve the bind by removing these?

Sorry don't mean to thread jack!

 

[brian2sun]

Well, I have more of a question than a comment:

Why are you doing a body lift and not a suspension lift? IMO body lifts are for people who want a vehicle that looks taller but doesn't have any additional capability. If you're adding bumpers and sliders to your 4runner, then I assume you plan to take it off road, right? (Why else would you get sliders?)

So wouldn't a suspension lift be a better plan? You can get a basic OME suspension lift for ~$600 that will give you improved off road handling, and there will be no need for extending shifters, steering column, or any of the other mods you have to make when putting on a body lift. You can get a spacer lift for ~$250 or maybe less.

Just my personal preference, I guess, but I don't get body lifts. Yes, they're supposedly cheaper than a suspension lift but by the time you deal with all the problems that a body lift brings (steering, transmission, t-case linkage, fuel tank, bumpers, etc) it seems a simple suspension lift (even a "spacer" or "puck lift") would be easier, cheaper, and result in a better looking vehicle.

EDITED TO ADD: I see from your sig that you already have a suspension lift. What gains will 1" give you? Wouldn't going to longer or heavier springs give you the same result a lot easier?

We are limited to 3" of suspension lift in the front without destroying CVs and some 33s still rub with that set up. My 33.5s (255/85/16s) would rub with out that extra inch of BL. Your other choices are you could hack away at your fenders a lot or or just run 265s and have less axle clearance.

A 1" BL was the right choice for me. BTW, there is nothing extra needed for a 1" BL except if yours is a '96 (and some early '97s) you will need the ~$30 steering shaft rag joint extension. Mine does just fine with the lower radiator shroud off. Nothing else is necessary until you get up over 1.5".

 

[99Yotarunner]

I got the 4 crawler 2 inch body lift, great product, but there web site sucks for trying to order, if your doing to do body lift i think the 2 inch is all around best way to go, hope this helps

 

[auxiliary]

Well, I have more of a question than a comment:

Why are you doing a body lift and not a suspension lift? IMO body lifts are for people who want a vehicle that looks taller but doesn't have any additional capability. If you're adding bumpers and sliders to your 4runner, then I assume you plan to take it off road, right? (Why else would you get sliders?)

So wouldn't a suspension lift be a better plan? You can get a basic OME suspension lift for ~$600 that will give you improved off road handling, and there will be no need for extending shifters, steering column, or any of the other mods you have to make when putting on a body lift. You can get a spacer lift for ~$250 or maybe less.

Just my personal preference, I guess, but I don't get body lifts. Yes, they're supposedly cheaper than a suspension lift but by the time you deal with all the problems that a body lift brings (steering, transmission, t-case linkage, fuel tank, bumpers, etc) it seems a simple suspension lift (even a "spacer" or "puck lift") would be easier, cheaper, and result in a better looking vehicle.

EDITED TO ADD: I see from your sig that you already have a suspension lift. What gains will 1" give you? Wouldn't going to longer or heavier springs give you the same result a lot easier?

I already have a 3 inch lift and 33s. Not so much looking for a body lift as looks but more as a clearance and do it now before I weld on sliders/bumpers.

 

[MillerPKA]

Please tell me the mount showed up!

And I agree with the above on 4crawler, but if you're just looking at 1" Toytec will do you just fine

 

[Duhockey]

I already have a 3 inch lift and 33s. Not so much looking for a body lift as looks but more as a clearance and do it now before I weld on sliders/bumpers.

just to warn you, the only clearance you will get is fender over tire,

your gas tank, engine everything will still sit at the same place,

I had my sliders sitting under my bed for about 4 months deciding if I wanted to go with the body lift or not before I decided that I clear my fenders just fine with my 33s,

just a thought, but if you do do one! Pics!

 

[J-money$$$]

I got a 1" toytec bodylift awhile back, and it came with the steering shaft extension. small Body Lifts are great to add on top of a suspension lift so you can increase tire size and not rub as bad. I wouldnt use more than 1" BL. and i think a suspension lift should come first...

 

[Mauzer]

I have the 4crawler 1.5" BL, super easy install and if you can't figure out the website just call Roger. He's a great guy and can answer any questions you may have...plus I'm pretty sure its cheaper than Toytec, if your going for just 1" you could also try Wab-Fab b/c he stocks 4crawler lifts and is also a great guy.

 

[CarolinaCowboy]

a 2" BL in combo w/ 3" suspension is needed to clear 315s correct? just curious b/c i know that's the lift combo i'm going with but not sure one whether i'll be throwing on 305/70R16s (33s) or 315/75R16s (35s)

 

[Misafit]

a 2" BL in combo w/ 3" suspension is needed to clear 315s correct? just curious b/c i know that's the lift combo i'm going with but not sure one whether i'll be throwing on 305/70R16s (33s) or 315/75R16s (35s)

I'm fairly certain that you'll need both the suspension and BL to fit the 35s, and probably have to trim your fenders. I was running 33s on a 3" lift with my fenders trimmed, and I was still getting rub every so often so I put the 2" BL on and no rub whatsoever. I'm thinking I could fit 35s but I'm not sure. The tires were rubbing more or less on the backside of the wheel well and not the top of it.

 

[hdoggie24]

had a quick question if anyone could answer...right now i have 31x10.5 on 15s and going to put 99 tall coils on soon. gonna run that for awhile. if i were to get 33x10.5's later down the road, would adding a 1" bodylift with just the 99 coils give me enough clearance and look ok??? thanks

 

[brian2sun]

I'm fairly certain that you'll need both the suspension and BL to fit the 35s, and probably have to trim your fenders. I was running 33s on a 3" lift with my fenders trimmed, and I was still getting rub every so often so I put the 2" BL on and no rub whatsoever. I'm thinking I could fit 35s but I'm not sure. The tires were rubbing more or less on the backside of the wheel well and not the top of it.

For 35s and a 3"/2" lift, you'll still probably need to do more trimming and pounding on the fenders to not rub a lot off road, but that's just the way it is with 35s.

had a quick question if anyone could answer...right now i have 31x10.5 on 15s and going to put 99 tall coils on soon. gonna run that for awhile. if i were to get 33x10.5's later down the road, would adding a 1" bodylift with just the 99 coils give me enough clearance and look ok??? thanks

'99 coils and a 1" BL isn't enough to run 33s without a lot of rubbing off road - you're still about 2" shy of what you really need. If you want those 33s to be functional on real trails, a 3" sus, 1" BL, and some pounding and trimming is the ticket. Or you could do more trimming and make it work with a 3" sus only.