Body work question (ughhhhhhh)

Sup41

New member
So I made the mistake of parking on the street instead of my garage yesterday. I go to move it and found the damage you see in the pics below. Ugggggghhhhhhh!!!! (Wtf could have hit me this high up with s 3" lift??)

Youll notice there is no actual paint scratches, just a massive dent. My question is..can I use the hot water / suction cup trick or is this wishful thinking?
 

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That sucks.

right on the bend makes it difficult that the metal seems creased it aint happening that way. Time to look for a crashed one.
 
That sucks.

right on the bend makes it difficult that the metal seems creased it aint happening that way. Time to look for a crashed one.

any street cameras around might be able to find the culprit
 
Remove the door panel and try to push it out. I got the same thing in my car at a walmart parking lot in Louisiana. My dash can shows it is a jeep but no license plate in the front so the perpetrator got away!
 
Remove the door panel and try to push it out. I got the same thing in my car at a walmart parking lot in Louisiana. My dash can shows it is a jeep but no license plate in the front so the perpetrator got away!

Bummer! Wish I had a cam. How do you remove the door panel?
 
That is a NASTY dent - not a easy-quick fix...repair work likely make small change, out of a $1,000 bill.
- DO NOT pound the dent out, from the inside ... dent needs to come out in reverse order, for minimum head ache
- inexperience and a 2x4 pounding from the inside, will badly stretch & damage the metal even more

The PDR (Paintless Dent Removal) pros. usually work on small dents 1.3 mm maximum depth (<= 0.051") and much less.
- as Reference: 1/16" equals 0.0625" ... so 80% of a sixteenth of an inch deep dent
- dents on body lines, are more trouble to take out / bc stamped line added strength, to the sheet metal profile
- Toyota's also use HSS (High Strength Steel) in their body panels ... another "Con" during dent removal

^^ Looks like the tailgate metal is deeply dented and over stretched.
- how deep is the worst part ?
- probably a decent body shop Tech. would have grind off the paint & weld stud pins on dent ... to pull it out close
- and finish up with a skim coat of body filler plastic
- epoxy prime & base coat-clear top coat paint
 
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That is a NASTY dent - not a easy-quick fix...repair work likely make small change, out of a $1,000 bill.
- DO NOT pound the dent out, from the inside ... dent needs to come out in reverse order, for minimum head ache
- inexperience and a 2x4 pounding from the inside, will badly stretch & damage the metal even more

The PDR (Paintless Dent Removal) pros. usually work on small dents 1.3 mm maximum depth (<= 0.051") and much less.
- as Reference: 1/16" equals 0.0625" ... so 80% of a sixteenth of an inch deep dent
- dents on body lines, are more trouble to take out / bc stamped line added strength, to the sheet metal profile
- Toyota's also use HSS (High Strength Steel) in their body panels ... another "Con" during dent removal

^^ Looks like the tailgate metal is deeply dented and over stretched.
- how deep is the worst part ?
- probably a decent body shop Tech. would have grind off the paint & weld stud pins on dent ... to pull it out close
- and finish up with a skim coat of body filler plastic
- epoxy prime & base coat-clear top coat paint

Damn. You think 1000$ to do the grind / weld stud and pull?
 
Damn. You think 1000$ to do the grind / weld stud and pull?

Lets assume:
a) Pull Dent & Straighten metal, bondo skim coat & block sand (ready for Epoxy) = 4.5 hours
b) Mask off vehicle = 0.5 hours
c) Repaint / labor = 3.0 hours
d) Primer & Paint = $200 in Supplies only

Repair Total Costs = 8 hrs. labor + $200 in materials + Tax...it adds up quick.
- try and find a most skilled repair guy

^^ If you get some shop estimates, please kindly share repair costs.
 
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Well, this is my area of expertise (I work for a body shop and have been in the automotive industry for 11 years)... Unfortunately, due to the crease, it very well could need a liftgate - due to where the body line has been compromised. I'm currently dealing with a 2017 with the same kind of impact and the liftgate is requiring replacement, to repair it properly. You can try to push it out but it's never going to look right. The metal is stretched and weakened.

You could possibly just use body filler and try to match the body lines as best as possible, paint and clear coat... but it'll never look perfect.
 
Well, this is my area of expertise (I work for a body shop and have been in the automotive industry for 11 years)... Unfortunately, due to the crease, it very well could need a liftgate - due to where the body line has been compromised. I'm currently dealing with a 2017 with the same kind of impact and the liftgate is requiring replacement, to repair it properly. You can try to push it out but it's never going to look right. The metal is stretched and weakened.

You could possibly just use body filler and try to match the body lines as best as possible, paint and clear coat... but it'll never look perfect.

As someone else in the collision repair industry this 100% spot on.

If it was me I'd find a good used lift gate in a salvage yard
 
Probably could get a complete rear hatch in good shape for about $400. I sold a peeled gray one for about $150.

Be sure to get the same year or close to it, for you an 01 or 02 would be perfect. There's some changes in the wiring and relays in the rear hatch itself in some of the years but I don't know what year it started.
 
Probably could get a complete rear hatch in good shape for about $400. I sold a peeled gray one for about $150.

Be sure to get the same year or close to it, for you an 01 or 02 would be perfect. There's some changes in the wiring and relays in the rear hatch itself in some of the years but I don't know what year it started.

Good point. This is what I am concerned about...I called around to the local junk yards and they've got a bunch of 2000's and maybe one 2001 but no 2002.

Anyone here know if I am safe with a 2001 or 2000?
 
Good point. This is what I am concerned about...I called around to the local junk yards and they've got a bunch of 2000's and maybe one 2001 but no 2002.

Anyone here know if I am safe with a 2001 or 2000?

2001 for sure. '01 and '02 are pretty much clones. The major change was in 1999, when they went to the multiplex communication bus between front and rear and standard wireless door locks with the antenna in the liftgate, so I would think '99 and '00 would need at most minor work, but I haven't done it.

The rear liftgate involves a bunch of different circuits, so it's not an easy question to answer sitting at my computer.
 
2001 for sure. '01 and '02 are pretty much clones. The major change was in 1999, when they went to the multiplex communication bus between front and rear and standard wireless door locks with the antenna in the liftgate, so I would think '99 and '00 would need at most minor work, but I haven't done it.

The rear liftgate involves a bunch of different circuits, so it's not an easy question to answer sitting at my computer.


Still helpful. Thanks!
 
^^ If you get some shop estimates, please kindly share repair costs.

Here to report back with some repair costs. The first repair shop I took it to said 1750 to repair it and 2550 to replace the lift gate.

Insurance says since it was hit and run it won't effect my monthly rates. Gotta pay $500 deductible and I'm done. Normally I'd go on a salvage mission and find me a junk yard liftgate and have a blast putting it together but I start a new job soon and I'm gonna be preoccupied. That said I think I'll pay the $500.

I am considering buying a rear camera tho...f**in *sshole :flame:
 
Replace the lift gate shell and swap your parts and wiring over.
There's one on CL in Los Angeles for $100 but it needs paint. Good luck.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

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