Bolt on Pan hard correction Kit BOPCK

[dom42]

I’m testing fitting the last prototype/ first production version real soon to confirm it all fits. Will make a jig based off the one that fits the best and go to town on production.

This is by far the way to go. No more welding it on. And this is for sure stronger then the weld on version. Weld on version gets welded to the top of the factory mount which is the thinnest and weakest part of the factory pan hard mount. The way this is designed and wraps about the whole oem mount , it spreads the load so much more across the oem mount. Trust me these have been around for a long time in jeep and ram market. I couldn’t believe that a bolt on version was not available for the Toyota market.

About 3 weeks before the production drop.

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[214RUNNER]

PM sent

 

[?????]

Thank you KDSS Saint for blessing us with more awesome stuff!

 

[DigitalVex]

VERY nice. Unless you come from the XJ/TJ and up market, you likely have no idea what a panhard bar even does, lol. But, being able to keep the factory bar, and keep the axle centered under the body, will be great. The bolt-on is a GREAT idea. Good Luck!

 

[Brandonium]

Dom, will these be showing up on your site soon?

 

[BackOff]

Price range?
4th gen compatible?

 

[4RvsS2K]

will there also be a non-kdss version as well ? for the peasants

 

[blksubykid]

will there also be a non-kdss version as well ? for the peasants

Shouldn’t matter

 

[mrblah]

I have EIMKEITHS weld on, and they are fantastic at fixing high speed rear bump steer, and centering the rear diff, so my passenger rear tire isn't 1/2 inch farther out than the driver rear tire.

If you only came out 2 years ago.....I'd be shouting "TAAAKE MAAW MOOOOONIEESS PLLZ!!

 

[4RvsS2K]

Shouldn’t matter

sweet, i was hoping i didnt have to weld anything on for the panhard fix.
Thanks

 

[WanderlostOverland]

We might be interested in this for our '07 FJ Cruiser.

 

[Salvo Jimmy]

VERY nice. Unless you come from the XJ/TJ and up market, you likely have no idea what a panhard bar even does, !

True dat. How about an explanation for us dummies*

 

[Brandonium]

True dat. How about an explanation for us dummies[emoji1745]*[emoji3603][emoji848]

Primary purpose is to keep the axle centrally located under the vehicle and to prevent it from wandering about laterally.

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[BlackWorksInc]

[MENTION=433255]dom42[/MENTION] Of course you do this after I went an bought a weld-on a month or two ago. lol

In any case, a bolt-on option sounds like a great item for people who are squeamish about welding on their axles and/or don't want to deal with the hassle of welding it properly.

I don't know if this will be "stronger" than the weld-on kits to be honest with you; mainly because the bracket is just relying on the clamping force of the lower pan-hard bolt to hold it all together and wedge it against the axle housing. I do agree that it is as strong as the weld-on or factory bracket as it's just enveloping the existing bracket and providing good support for relocating the panhard lower mount.

I personally can't say I have seen/heard many 4th gens, 5th gens, or FJ's breaking their panhard mounts off; but I don't see why it wouldn't be possible given the way it gets strained and misaligned when we lift our vehicles. But the likely failure of the mount would be at the axle housing connection (possibly near/at the welds themselves), it's unlikely you're shearing the bolt and bending the outer tab of the mount outwards given how it's designed and attached. The weld-on kits if welded properly (that's the biggest variable inherent with any weld-on product) should tie-in to the factory mount and reinforce the axle to bracket connection a bit.

Though again, at the end of the day I think the "increases in strength" from either weld-on or bolt-on options is negligible in the grand-scheme. I am totally excited that you have a viable bolt-on option for correcting the panhard misalignment that happens with lifting our vehicles! That's a big win in my book, as you stated earlier, most people don't realize the benefits of doing this (it really should be a step/addition to any decent lift kit IMHO).

True dat. How about an explanation for us dummies��*��

I think the best condensed version is this article I stumbled on a while back:
The Panhard Problem | Evil FJ

If you're curious what the actual differences in angles and real-world looks like, there is the thread I made a bit ago showing my install of a weld-on bracket: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/305346-panhard-correction-kit-upgrade.html#post3735070

 

[dom42]

VERY nice. Unless you come from the XJ/TJ and up market, you likely have no idea what a panhard bar even does, lol. But, being able to keep the factory bar, and keep the axle centered under the body, will be great. The bolt-on is a GREAT idea. Good Luck!

Lol. This is true. Or the ram 2500 world. We did these all day.


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[dom42]

Dom, will these be showing up on your site soon?

I’d say in about 4 weeks.


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[dom42]

will there also be a non-kdss version as well ? for the peasants

This will work for all 4r’s 2010 to current , gx460’s , fj cruisers and prados


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[dom42]

I have EIMKEITHS weld on, and they are fantastic at fixing high speed rear bump steer, and centering the rear diff, so my passenger rear tire isn't 1/2 inch farther out than the driver rear tire.

If you only came out 2 years ago.....I'd be shouting "TAAAKE MAAW MOOOOONIEESS PLLZ!!

No doubt. I’m actually in awe that that option was the only option for us. So crazy.

With that said , if you put both bolt on design and eim Keith in a cad analysis, 100% guarantee the bolt on one I have coming out is stronger Because it spreads the load thru out the whole oem mount and not just the top section where it’s thinnest.


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[dom42]

[MENTION=433255]dom42[/MENTION] Of course you do this after I went an bought a weld-on a month or two ago. lol

In any case, a bolt-on option sounds like a great item for people who are squeamish about welding on their axles and/or don't want to deal with the hassle of welding it properly.

I don't know if this will be "stronger" than the weld-on kits to be honest with you; mainly because the bracket is just relying on the clamping force of the lower pan-hard bolt to hold it all together and wedge it against the axle housing. I do agree that it is as strong as the weld-on or factory bracket as it's just enveloping the existing bracket and providing good support for relocating the panhard lower mount.

I personally can't say I have seen/heard many 4th gens, 5th gens, or FJ's breaking their panhard mounts off; but I don't see why it wouldn't be possible given the way it gets strained and misaligned when we lift our vehicles. But the likely failure of the mount would be at the axle housing connection (possibly near/at the welds themselves), it's unlikely you're shearing the bolt and bending the outer tab of the mount outwards given how it's designed and attached. The weld-on kits if welded properly (that's the biggest variable inherent with any weld-on product) should tie-in to the factory mount and reinforce the axle to bracket connection a bit.

Though again, at the end of the day I think the "increases in strength" from either weld-on or bolt-on options is negligible in the grand-scheme. I am totally excited that you have a viable bolt-on option for correcting the panhard misalignment that happens with lifting our vehicles! That's a big win in my book, as you stated earlier, most people don't realize the benefits of doing this (it really should be a step/addition to any decent lift kit IMHO).



I think the best condensed version is this article I stumbled on a while back:
The Panhard Problem | Evil FJ

If you're curious what the actual differences in angles and real-world looks like, there is the thread I made a bit ago showing my install of a weld-on bracket: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/305346-panhard-correction-kit-upgrade.html#post3735070

100% this bolt on is stronger then the weld on version just being bolted on. If you put both in a cAD analysis it will show it. Trust me we’ve compared them in jeep world and ram 2500 world using cAD analysis.

The weld version gets welding on top the top of the oem mount where it’s the thinnest. We have rip off so many weld on version in the ram 2500 world. But that’s with high speed desert style wheel not crawling or slow trail stuff which most 4r runner guys do. Im more of a high speed desert guy so when I was thinkn about the weld on version. It wasn’t for me. Now won’t bay said , if the weld on version was a wrap around version like my bolt on then I would trust it more. And with that said , you can still add a couple spot welds to the bolt on one and will make it that much more secure.

But , I have tested this thing to death. Torque it down properly and it’s not going to love what so ever. I trap this thing at all angles and I know I drive this thing harder then 99% of the ppl out there. No joke I put my life on the line when I test.

Here’s some more pics.

What I’m trying to get at is, it’s not just relying on the oem bolt at the oem location. It’s a combo of that and it’s all being boxed in.

This this ain’t moving. You are ripping the oem mount off first before this breaks.


And last which is the most important part … imagine the color options. Forget the function [emoji1787][emoji1787]. I’m just playing.

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[dom42]

True dat. How about an explanation for us dummies[emoji1745]*[emoji3603][emoji848]

To keep it centered but also as we add longer travel or even just extended travel. As the suspension cycles , if the angle is to great , your axle will being swinging left to right and can give you a feeling as if the back end wants to go side ways. The guys the have a really tall ride height really need a PCK. To me around 2” or higher is where it’s needed.


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