Hey guys how much would a full brake replacement cost me on my 99 4runner... im gonna need to replace the rotors and everything... a full overhaul...they are grinded out. Im just tryin to get a feel for how much money im bout to drop on this... and im not lookin forward to it. im hopin its not 4 digits but im thinkin it might be. oh well let me know!!!
brake costs
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Mr. Dabadina
New member
I was given a very rough estimate of $250 for new pads and resurfacing of the rotors. He said he might need to adjust price but that was w/out looking at the rotors.
mikehinthehouse
New member
do the tundra brake upgrade man... it is so worth it... about 50 for pads... used calipers 150... oem rotors where 180 for both... it makes an unbelievable difference and no more warped rotors....
maine runner
New member
After two visits to 2 of the national brake/muffler shops I went to a dealer to fix the brakes.
While he fixed the problem, it cost $500 I think. That included f/r pads, new rotors and labor. This was in 2006. Their labor rate was $80 and now is $101/hr.
Have not had a problem since.
While he fixed the problem, it cost $500 I think. That included f/r pads, new rotors and labor. This was in 2006. Their labor rate was $80 and now is $101/hr.
Have not had a problem since.
JustAnotherT4R
New member
yuppers, the Tundra/Sequioa brake conversion was one of the best mod i did. cross drill rotor and pads was $125, 2006 Seqioua calipers was $90 both were bought off ebay. had a friend installed and bleed the brakes for a cheese burger. knowing you wont have warp rotor and can out stop a civic? Priceless!
caliper is a direct bolt on. beside cutting the dust shield an inch on top and bottom for each side of the truck. bleed the brakes. your done.
took about 30 min the first side and 15 min the 2nd side. the bleeding of the brakes took awhile to get all the air out. took about 2 bottle of brake fluid.
total time was about an hour. this was all done with air tools. this is the best bang for the buck i would say.
caliper is a direct bolt on. beside cutting the dust shield an inch on top and bottom for each side of the truck. bleed the brakes. your done.
took about 30 min the first side and 15 min the 2nd side. the bleeding of the brakes took awhile to get all the air out. took about 2 bottle of brake fluid.
total time was about an hour. this was all done with air tools. this is the best bang for the buck i would say.
Do you mean just the pads and rotors, or calipers, too?
For pads and rotors, the costs are roughly $60/rotor and $50 for a good set of pads. I recommend either Brembo blanks or Autozone Duralast rotors. For pads, get some Hawk LTS pads or ceramic pads from Autozone. My personal set up is Autozone Duralast rotors and Autozone ceramic pads. I've had it for the last 5000 miles and it's been great. Plus, lifetime warranty on the pads and 2 year warranty on the rotors.
For pads and rotors, the costs are roughly $60/rotor and $50 for a good set of pads. I recommend either Brembo blanks or Autozone Duralast rotors. For pads, get some Hawk LTS pads or ceramic pads from Autozone. My personal set up is Autozone Duralast rotors and Autozone ceramic pads. I've had it for the last 5000 miles and it's been great. Plus, lifetime warranty on the pads and 2 year warranty on the rotors.
mikehinthehouse
New member
wm69 said:
well for starters you must have 16 inch wheels... to clear the new disc...
then find some used tundra or sequoia calipers 199m.. I think they where stamped with SW13E...
I just went with OEM tundra rotors/disc b/c IMHO they are the best... I burned up some Brembo blanks in 3 months on my runner so I am anti Brembo...
Then get some tundra pads... everything is a direct bolt on.. all you have to do is grind down the dust sheild a lil bit to clear the bigger disc.
the difference is huge and no more warping problems for me..
I did this b/c I kept warping 4runner rotors left an right... and got sick of spending money.. I read on YT that brembo blanks where the way to go.. well I spent almost $200 on them and toasted them in a few months.. then I ran across the Tundra upgrade...
well worth the money!!! very well worth.. by far the best mod Ive done to my truck.
check these links out they should be extremely helpfull
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/tundra-brakes-3rd-gen-91911/
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/tundra-brake-conversion-rotors-114660/
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JustAnotherT4R
New member
Tundra brake swap can be done under $500. why bother to take chance of having another warp rotor?
QSVeilside
New member
Our trucks rotors are notorious for warping for several reasons:
1. Overweight with undersized brakes
2. ADJUST your rear drums! In most cases, our rear drums are not adjusted properly - makes our front rotors do all the work to stop the vehicle - http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=43741
3. Improper torque on the lug nuts cause the rotors to warp prematurely
4. Probably the most overlooked problem - IMPROPER break in period on the new rotors/pads
Contrary to popular belief, crossdrilled and slotted rotors don't do much, if anything for performance - baer.com see link below.
Crossdrilled rotors develop stress cracks, and for our application, are probably not the most ideal. Unfortunately, slotted rotors go through pads significantly faster than crossdrilled due to the clean surface you get with every rotation.
More info on CS/Slotted rotors:
http://www.baer.com/technical/faq/index.php
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml
With what I have read, Brembo blanks or the Tundra upgrade are the two budget brake mods one should consider. With the above sources in mind, I would not be able to confidently recommend drilled or slotted rotors. But I guess everyone's situation is different. Some people think drilled/slotted rotors look good. Personally, I have weight reduction in mind and went with the crossdrilled rotors. Saved two pounds in rotational mass.
Current setup:
1. Brembo crossdrilled rotors
2. Goodridge G-stop stainless steel brakelines
3. Rear drums adjusted
4. Proper torque on the lugs
5. Proper break in period applied to new rotors and pads
ZERO issues. Good stopping power.
1. Overweight with undersized brakes
2. ADJUST your rear drums! In most cases, our rear drums are not adjusted properly - makes our front rotors do all the work to stop the vehicle - http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=43741
3. Improper torque on the lug nuts cause the rotors to warp prematurely
4. Probably the most overlooked problem - IMPROPER break in period on the new rotors/pads
Contrary to popular belief, crossdrilled and slotted rotors don't do much, if anything for performance - baer.com see link below.
Crossdrilled rotors develop stress cracks, and for our application, are probably not the most ideal. Unfortunately, slotted rotors go through pads significantly faster than crossdrilled due to the clean surface you get with every rotation.
More info on CS/Slotted rotors:
http://www.baer.com/technical/faq/index.php
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml
With what I have read, Brembo blanks or the Tundra upgrade are the two budget brake mods one should consider. With the above sources in mind, I would not be able to confidently recommend drilled or slotted rotors. But I guess everyone's situation is different. Some people think drilled/slotted rotors look good. Personally, I have weight reduction in mind and went with the crossdrilled rotors. Saved two pounds in rotational mass.
Current setup:
1. Brembo crossdrilled rotors
2. Goodridge G-stop stainless steel brakelines
3. Rear drums adjusted
4. Proper torque on the lugs
5. Proper break in period applied to new rotors and pads
ZERO issues. Good stopping power.
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To be honest, I have no idea how brakes work. But a few months ago, I wore down my brakes to the point where I can feel metal on metal grinding, the brake light never went on. I just got my Dad to bring it in to the mechanic, and I think it cost like $600-$700. Seemed like a ripoff to me, but I didn't know any better.
well... i got my brakes fixed.... i went to Black's Tire and Auto here in wilmington, nc. everything is good and works well and i was out of there at only $286!!! i thought that was pretty sick! so I'm a happy camper. I might go with the tundra upgrade if these rotors warp later on down the road but for now im good. Thanks guys for your feedback you guys were a lot of help.
