Brake Fluid Flush
- Thread starter Boaz
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Get brake fluid on the paint and leave it there for any length of time and I think you'll call it paint remover.
The most important thing to do with brake flushing is to get all the oil fluid out and finish with only new fluid in the system. The every two years really works. Most expensive problems with a brake system are caused by moisture in the system.
The most important thing to do with brake flushing is to get all the oil fluid out and finish with only new fluid in the system. The every two years really works. Most expensive problems with a brake system are caused by moisture in the system.
greasefingers
New member
An interval of once a year is a bit obsessive IMO. I will do mine at 3 year intervals.
Bluto
New member
Every 2 or 3 years is a good idea, depending on mileage and driving habits. I did it on my last car at 52k. The brake fluid looked terrible.
I don't know why Toyota does not mention it in the maintenance, especially with the ABS/VSC/TRAC systems. Maybe they like selling parts.
On my last car it was simple as bleeding the brakes, in order.
Open brake fluid reservior.
Remove as much fluid as possible with a turkey baster.
Remove a tire.
Open bleeder, attach hose, catch bottle.
Add fluid to reservior, pump brakes.
Continue until new fluid comes out of bleeder.
Close bleeder, replace tire.
Repeat for other 3 corners.
Have to know the correct order to bleed system, and how much fluid to buy. It is time consuming moving from brake pedal, to rotor, to reservior, with clean hands, and not spilling. Having a friend can help. I'll probably let the dealer do my truck.
A local dealer is offering a brake flush for $80. It is probably better than the above method, not a bad price.
Do we have to use Toyota Fluid? Castrol makes good brake fluid.
I don't know why Toyota does not mention it in the maintenance, especially with the ABS/VSC/TRAC systems. Maybe they like selling parts.
On my last car it was simple as bleeding the brakes, in order.
Open brake fluid reservior.
Remove as much fluid as possible with a turkey baster.
Remove a tire.
Open bleeder, attach hose, catch bottle.
Add fluid to reservior, pump brakes.
Continue until new fluid comes out of bleeder.
Close bleeder, replace tire.
Repeat for other 3 corners.
Have to know the correct order to bleed system, and how much fluid to buy. It is time consuming moving from brake pedal, to rotor, to reservior, with clean hands, and not spilling. Having a friend can help. I'll probably let the dealer do my truck.
A local dealer is offering a brake flush for $80. It is probably better than the above method, not a bad price.
Do we have to use Toyota Fluid? Castrol makes good brake fluid.
Bluto said:
Thanks for the procedure. I would just add a couple of caveats to it. First off, have a friend apply pressure to the brake pedal before you open the bleeder valve. Then open the bleed valve on the down stroke and pump a few times until the fluid it clear with no bubbles, and finally tighten bleeder screw during last down stroke.
Additionally, start with a little brake fluid in the catching container so the drain line is always beneath the surface. I always start with the brake line that is furthest from the master cylinder and work in. I also use a clear plastic hose and box wrench rather an open-end wrench for the bleeder screw.
Always make sure you top up the master cylinder reservoir before bleeding each wheel and that it never runs dry during bleeding process. It is most important to keep everything clean and start with a fresh can of brake fluid. Brake fluid is highly corrosive and absorbs water like crazy so I only use fluid, from partially filled cans that were kept tightly sealed, for flushing.
For those working alone they sell a vacuum pump you can use if there is no one to pump on the brakes for you. I too would prefer someone else to do for me but I just don
Bluto
New member
biglatka said:
You'll need to have the lid on the reservior to do that, correct? Or have the lid on everytime you pump the brakes (valve open or not)? I can't remember.
I also had a bucket of scalding hot water on hand, with a cloth. It will make quick work of any brake fluid you spill.
Bluto said:
When bleeding the brakes I always put the lid back on the master cylinder after topping it up, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't make a difference. After installing a new master cylinder on one of my cars I adapted short pieces of brake lines to go from the outputs of the master cylinder to run back into the reservoir as a way of bleeding it. I don't recall any brake fluid escaping from the reservoir while pumping the brake pedal.
The easiest way I've ever bled my brakes is explained in this thread I started on Yotatech. You can do it alone... no helper required.
Home Made Brake Flushing Tool
Home Made Brake Flushing Tool
POS Racing
New member
Wow that a lot of pipe!GSGALLANT said:
My Miata buddies came up with this design and it works great, flush the breaks on the Miata quarterly since it sees a lot of track and AX time, the cap setup works really good as a one man setup. Some principle as the one above. I plan to make one for the Toyota.
POS Racing
New member
No more than 15-20psi. Works great on my Miatas!jeober said:
Casper
New member
Bled mine and installed the Stainless Steel Brake lines.
I will say that unless its absolutely necessary, try to have two people do a brake bleed. In addition, a rubber mallett is also recommended to dislodge any residual bubbles that might be lieft in the calipers.
ABS does not affect brake bleeding.
As for fluid, I have decided to use ATE Type200 Dot4 Fluid as im positive that its higher quality than the OEM fluid. Its actually rated higher than DOT 4 minimums and not when combined with the stainless lines provides more direct and powerful stopping ability but also with the fluid, it provides a higher level of safety when towing or just in normal driving.
I will say that unless its absolutely necessary, try to have two people do a brake bleed. In addition, a rubber mallett is also recommended to dislodge any residual bubbles that might be lieft in the calipers.
ABS does not affect brake bleeding.
As for fluid, I have decided to use ATE Type200 Dot4 Fluid as im positive that its higher quality than the OEM fluid. Its actually rated higher than DOT 4 minimums and not when combined with the stainless lines provides more direct and powerful stopping ability but also with the fluid, it provides a higher level of safety when towing or just in normal driving.
