brake issue

01thunder

New member
i was having the problem of the left caliper grabbing before the right was, and causing the steering to pull left. i replaced the right as one of the pistons was stuck. same problem.

today, i replaced the left thinking that will correct the problem. nogo. same problem. since the calipers have been replaced and the issue still exists, could it be the master cylinder/abs unit causing the problem?
 
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How do you know the left comes in first?
Some times rear brakes can do it too. Most of the time, it is rear that leads to pulling to the side.
Use e-brake lever (few bumps will do) to adjust the rear brakes. Don't do it with a screwdriver.
Did you bleed the front brakes well?
The master cylinder has only one line to both front wheels so I suppose your master cylinder is good.

Have you checked any bearing play?
Tire pressure same on both wheels?
New rotors? brake pads?
 
Err, did you bleed your brakes? That's normally what you are supposed to do first...

Check those rear brakes for sludge/gear oil on your brakes. Rear axle seal failures are common on these 4Runners.
 
nothing wrong with that stuff. everything up to date. yes bled. the steering wheel jerks left when i hit the brake hard. i can fell the left grabbing first, then the right comes in.
 
Subscribed as I have the same problem as the OP. I have done all this less than 10K ago; Tundra upgrade (NAPA parts), all rears shoes new and adjusted properly, system is bled very well, and a new oem master too. I have double checked everything. I thought it was a warped rotor on that side so I replaced BOTH under warranty just in case, but it was no help. Still get a big tug when I hit the brakes, especially at lower speed.
 
checking today and found the left lower control arm bushings are worn, causing my condition. now to start pricing parts.
 
checking today and found the left lower control arm bushings are worn, causing my condition. now to start pricing parts.

What ever you do, don't buy aftermarket LCAs with bushings already pressed in. They are JUNK! Get OEM replacement bushings or Whiteline Poly bushings. After you remove the LCAs spray them down with PB Blaster then use the bottle jack method, they will pop out. Warning, remember to cover the bushings with a towel because they will fly out!

I've seen others trying to remove the bushings by cutting and torching, it looked like a nightmare so I was dead set against doing them myself, until I saw a thread somewhere where they used a bottle jack. It worked like a charm! Good luck.

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i don't buy anything aftermarket. been there, done that. replaced OE radiator with chinese crap and it leaked in 6 months. paid double and just bought an OEM one.

anyway, yeah, OE parts. bushings are $170 and change for 4 from camelback.
i can't have the truck down as only means of transport, so it's cheaper for me to buy 2 complete OE arms and slap them in and get it aligned versus taking mine apart and pressing new bushings in. i would need to buy a bottle jack as well, so that is an additional expense.
 
Have you had an opportunity to do the work yet [MENTION=96863]01thunder[/MENTION]? Just wondering if it was the solution....
 
Have you had an opportunity to do the work yet [MENTION=96863]01thunder[/MENTION]? Just wondering if it was the solution....

not yet dg. i should get the bushings via fedex today. if the weather is dry tomorrow, i will start them. i opted to just get the bushings as i can press them out and in. no need to spend 170+ each for 2 arms when mine are fine. i was going to get 2 used ones and have them ready with new bushings but that is an extra 70. i need to get it aligned as well. since i am not working, i can take the time to get them done.

but i got under it today to mark the eccentrics before i remove them and decided to check again. sure enough, the bushings have a lot of lateral play, especially on the driver side, which is the one causing the problem. i hope all this takes care of it.
 
did the work today in a few hours. pretty simple and easy. drives way better than before. braking issue is gone and it drives straighter as well.
 
so bushings can cause it to pull?

i have this problem where it pulls to the right whenever i brake hard or soft, 2 mechanics told me it is a bad ABS pump/booster. very expensive repair. if it's just bushings though, that would be great.
 
so bushings can cause it to pull?

i have this problem where it pulls to the right whenever i brake hard or soft, 2 mechanics told me it is a bad ABS pump/booster. very expensive repair. if it's just bushings though, that would be great.

where are you located mike? yes. bad bushing will cause a pull. i had my truck on jacks. while a spun the driver side tire, my friend applied the brake. the assembly would completely move forward; i could see the bushing move. it would cause the steering wheel to jerk left and then go back to right. no so now that the bushings are new. i need to get it realigned as the camber has changed.
 
I've had this issue for sometime since I replaced my calipers with 231s. I'll have to tackle this project next time I order a round of parts. Did you end up using a bottle jack to push out the bushings? Thanks for the info!
 
where are you located mike? yes. bad bushing will cause a pull. i had my truck on jacks. while a spun the driver side tire, my friend applied the brake. the assembly would completely move forward; i could see the bushing move. it would cause the steering wheel to jerk left and then go back to right. no so now that the bushings are new. i need to get it realigned as the camber has changed.

orlando
 
bad bushings will cause a lot of things, including braking issues. bottle jack worked for me. the truck is clean so no rust to deal with. everything comes apart easily.
 
even if this doesn't fix the problem, at least it will correct steering and alignment issues. if you need them done, i am in tampa so i can do this job in my garage and charge less than most shops. i got time since the shop i was at closed.
 

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