brake lines and caliper bolts

3bears

Senior Member
yes this is related to the TBU, I have read and asked in those threads and did not get reply's

I searched, but maybe incorrectly

I am slowly sourcing the parts for my TBU and really want to get to it this fall...but snow is on the way and no garage

when doing the job I want to also replace all the rubber brake lines, after all they are nearly 17 years old.
Want to go stainless ........any good recommendations or brands to stay away from

also on some vehicles ( mostly European) it is recommended to replace the caliper bolts when changing calipers, is this not something needed with the Toyotas... I have not read "replace bolts" but have read, replace all hardware...aren't bolts hardware ?

I know many have done them without replacing and had no problems, but wonder what the "official" word is
kind of like people that replace lower ball joints with the old bolts, when you are supposed to use new ones ( well I did and I thought we are supposed to)
 
Register to hide this ad
I bought the "StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit for Tacoma" from E-Bay. It was cheaper than Wheelers. Most people use the Stop Tech.
I also bought the Tundra caliper bolts from the dealer even though my stock bolts fit & were in good shape.
 
yes this is related to the TBU, I have read and asked in those threads and did not get reply's

I searched, but maybe incorrectly

I am slowly sourcing the parts for my TBU and really want to get to it this fall...but snow is on the way and no garage

when doing the job I want to also replace all the rubber brake lines, after all they are nearly 17 years old.
Want to go stainless ........any good recommendations or brands to stay away from

also on some vehicles ( mostly European) it is recommended to replace the caliper bolts when changing calipers, is this not something needed with the Toyotas... I have not read "replace bolts" but have read, replace all hardware...aren't bolts hardware ?

I know many have done them without replacing and had no problems, but wonder what the "official" word is
kind of like people that replace lower ball joints with the old bolts, when you are supposed to use new ones ( well I did and I thought we are supposed to)

The best Mod you'll ever do! Like [MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] I re-used my existing caliper bolts. Went with drilled and slotted and love them. (Debates on solid v. drilled and slotted in various threads.) No cracks anywhere. The wagner thermo's are great. I went with Wheelers on the brake lines. What's this snow thing you're talking about! Not ready...

EDIT: If you don't want to do the "UP"...."DOWN"..."UP"...."DOWN" then I think I used a My-T-Vac brake bleeder and did it myself. (after all these years of having my wife or kids in there...)

This link has the PN#...Rock Rats TBU Upgrade
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
This one? They also have them for 4Runner, probably the same exact thing... Stoptech Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit for Tacoma 950 44007 | eBay

Also, any videos or tutorials for replacing the lines?

Yep, those are the ones. I didnt look at any video's even though it was my first time doing it. I just used a flare wrench for the 2 nuts. You're goona lose fluid because the rubber line's you're replacing are the one's you usually pinch. I'd use a plug for the hard line. I didn't care what I lost because I flushed out all of the 17yo old fluid & replace with Valvoline Dot 3-4 Synthetic.
 
I reused the caliper bolts cause I didn't know any better.

I got the calipers used on ebay from Texas and a Toyota rebuild kit.

Toyota rotors cost about the same as auto parts store and are much higher quality with the interior painted and less rough ( dodge rust just a little longer…)

Toyota pads. I paid a little more for ones that are not beveled. Why go to all this trouble and not get the whole brake pad ?

I got stainless lines, think they were those ebay ones.

Brake bleeding. Crack the bleeder open. Pour brake fluid in up above and watch until it drips out of bleeder. Close bleeder, mash pedal. Crack bleeder to make sure there is no air. This can be hastened by necking down a shopvac and sucking on the bleeder. But patience pays off in letting any bubbles rise to bleeder.
 
Last edited:
Yep, those are the ones. I didnt look at any video's even though it was my first time doing it. I just used a flare wrench for the 2 nuts. You're goona lose fluid because the rubber line's you're replacing are the one's you usually pinch. I'd use a plug for the hard line. I didn't care what I lost because I flushed out all of the 17yo old fluid & replace with Valvoline Dot 3-4 Synthetic.

OK one more: are these long enough to accommodate a 3" lift?
 
OK one more: are these long enough to accommodate a 3" lift?

Yep, the stock rubber lines actually long enough. The only brake line that needs to be extended for lifts is the rear. (01-02 have two rear lines)
I only installed them because they look cool. :smokin:
 
Or do it like I do. Turn on the engine and have them just press on the brake. The booster applies constant pressure and you'll have the whole caliper bled in 15 seconds. Done!
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,085
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top