Brake Pads

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I use Akebono on almost everything. Great all around pads. They are the OE supplier to a lot of manufactures as well, I believe even Toyota's.
 
Swapping out my Akebonos for Hawk this weekend. Will report back. Went with 5.0 fronts and HPS rears. The Akebono do not have sufficient first-grab bite. The E KO2s probably don't help.
 
I gotta do my fronts soon. Planning on getting OEM. I've been burnt by aftermarket pads (AdvancedAuto) before. Gonna be interesting as I've never done them myself before. If I have a caliper issue, I won't know what to really for.
 
That's only the front pads.

Yes, iI understand that. Im used to paying closer to $100. And considering how huge these front rotors/pads are, I was expecting the $100 range...thats why im pleasantly surprised...one question...with upsized tires (33's), should an aftermarket rotor/pad be tossed on, or these stockers sufficient? Thoughts appreciated
 
I gotta do my fronts soon. Planning on getting OEM. I've been burnt by aftermarket pads (AdvancedAuto) before. Gonna be interesting as I've never done them myself before. If I have a caliper issue, I won't know what to really for.

I noticed my sticking caliper because one end of the pad was worn more than the other... Must have been sticking for awhile. I bought the pads from the dealer and the calipers and rotors from Napa.

The pad material looked like a cheese wedge...
 
Swapping out my Akebonos for Hawk this weekend. Will report back. Went with 5.0 fronts and HPS rears. The Akebono do not have sufficient first-grab bite. The E KO2s probably don't help.

I put on this exact same combo 700 miles ago. While I still need to fix the spongy pedal, I'm really happy with the combination.
 
I'm biased towards Stoptech street. I've used them on all my previous vehicles and like the feel and response. They are also the identical TRD oem upgrade pads supposedly.

Good bite in the cold, but dusty.

I gotta do my fronts soon. Planning on getting OEM. I've been burnt by aftermarket pads (AdvancedAuto) before. Gonna be interesting as I've never done them myself before. If I have a caliper issue, I won't know what to really for.

Uneven brake pad wear like someone else mentioned (tho if its the rear calipers, it could also be due to stuck guide pins). Also look for torn rubber seals around the piston. You'll also know when you're trying to reset the piston and it doesn't want to move back in. If enough of the piston is visible, see if the metal itself is pitted.
 
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If you double tap the pedal does the subsequent press feel good?

Yep. It bites really well and is easy to modulate.

As far as detecting a stuck caliper - I've seen 2 different symptoms (both driver's side front caliper):
1) One pad on the caliper wearing more than the other. The inboard pad was 50% of what the outboard pad was.
2) It took an act of God to retract one of the pistons when installing new pads. I figured if it's sticky and I was at that point, I might as well change the caliper.
 
Yep. It bites really well and is easy to modulate.

As far as detecting a stuck caliper - I've seen 2 different symptoms (both driver's side front caliper):
1) One pad on the caliper wearing more than the other. The inboard pad was 50% of what the outboard pad was.
2) It took an act of God to retract one of the pistons when installing new pads. I figured if it's sticky and I was at that point, I might as well change the caliper.

using a C clamp the pistons should go back evenly . if you feel binding then set caliper on top of the rotor pump on brake pedal a couple of times then c clamp push it in.. if its still sticking you will need new caliper...

a trick I have done to avoid replacing is get the piston to come out to the max but not fall out then try to rotate the piston . this can get it to free up. I also use a brake pin silicone grease on the seals of the pins and boots. this product keeps the corrosive elements out.

the piston seal some times will not retract .. using a plastic small stick work on the seal to remove the trapped air..

apply anti seize on the steel pad backing plate to reduce any squealing.. paint like coating only.
 
i love EBC, but the yellows on the 4runner produce way too much dust. my rotors are black every week. something for OP and others to consider

The standard 6000 series and "low dust" 7000 series are pretty dusty too; have/had them on my 3rd gen and parents' GX470 (same platform as 4th gens), wasn't very happy when I had to clean my wheels within a week of installing the 7000s, what a load of BS.

I tried Akebonos this time when I did my rear pads and rotors, so far so good with the dust. If you need them right away, order online for store pickup from Pep Boys, there's usually a discount code. If you can wait a few days, you can't really beat rockauto.com , they sponsor this forum and there's always a 5% discount code on their sub forum.
 

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