Brake Replacement

M

MattB1

New member
Hey guys, looking for some advice on a new set of brake pads and rotors for my 2010 5th Gen, currently at 100k KM. Can anyone recommend a solid durable set?

Driving habits are:
-Driving in the mountains,
-Light to medium off road (Weekend warrior, now mostly used to taking the family around town, she still get's mud on the roof every now and then)
-Going from extreme heat to extreme cold,
-Towing trailer.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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I just put on Bendix CT-3s on the front and back of my 2013 Limited and they've been great so far. Pads and hardware appeared to be of high quality, dimensions were correct, good stopping power, and no noise! The pads below are even available on Amazon (~$80 total), that's where I bought them after narrowing down these from RockAuto. Good luck!

Bendix D606CT CT-3 Brake Pad Set
Bendix D976CT CT-3 Brake Pad Set
 
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I got 60k miles out of my OEM pads and another 60k out of the second set, I won't bother with aftermarket brake pads for them anymore.
 
There have been several threads on brake pads over the last few years and OEM wins every time. Price, longevity and fit are hard to beat. I'm sure there are a host of rotors out there too; but I'd go OEM and follow the bedding procedure and be good to go - err stop! You might want to mic the rotors - they may not need to be replaced unless under spec or have other damage.
 
I went with TRD pads (PTR09-89111) and OEM rotors at just over 95k. OEM pads still had over 3mm in front.
 
tristero said:
I went with TRD pads (PTR09-89111) and OEM rotors at just over 95k. OEM pads still had over 3mm in front.
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Did you notice any difference with the trd ones? Curious cause my stock pads started to over heat coming down from Yosemite so I am thinking about higher temp capacity pads. Other than that the oem ones are great.


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I will give Brembo Blanks (rotors) and EBC pads a shot in a few weeks. There appear to be no other upgrade options.
 
916T4R said:
Did you notice any difference with the trd ones? Curious cause my stock pads started to over heat coming down from Yosemite so I am thinking about higher temp capacity pads. Other than that the oem ones are great.


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I know what you mean I had that issue coming down 4 from Ebbetts pass about a week ago. Haven't had a chance to test them out on the mountain roads yet, but so far no different than OEM around town. Making another trip at the end of the month and I can update then. We went up to northern Sonoma over the weekend and it definitely felt a lot better than my worn out rotors and pads.
 
916T4R said:
Did you notice any difference with the trd ones? Curious cause my stock pads started to over heat coming down from Yosemite so I am thinking about higher temp capacity pads. Other than that the oem ones are great.


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The pads make the heat. The rotors absorb and dissipate the heat. If your pads got too hot it's because the rotors couldn't get rid of the heat fast enough. If you get a higher temp pad (ceramic let's say) then unless you get a higher temp rotor then you will only get a bit more bite initially. Once those higher temp pads heat up, transfer the energy into the rotors, get them hot, you are right back to what you had before.
It's always going to be the delta T between pads and rotors that determine fade. If you have a hotter pad, then that makes a hotter rotor and *poof* you are back to where you were with OEM.
 
916T4R said:
Did you notice any difference with the trd ones? Curious cause my stock pads started to over heat coming down from Yosemite so I am thinking about higher temp capacity pads. Other than that the oem ones are great.
Click to expand...
You need to downshift and let engine compression do the vast majority of your braking. On long steep grades you will overheat any pad/rotor combination.

75k on my first set of pads, 100k on my second, both had life left in them, just was a convenient time to change them.
 
1engineer said:
The pads make the heat. The rotors absorb and dissipate the heat. If your pads got too hot it's because the rotors couldn't get rid of the heat fast enough. If you get a higher temp pad (ceramic let's say) then unless you get a higher temp rotor then you will only get a bit more bite initially. Once those higher temp pads heat up, transfer the energy into the rotors, get them hot, you are right back to what you had before.
It's always going to be the delta T between pads and rotors that determine fade. If you have a hotter pad, then that makes a hotter rotor and *poof* you are back to where you were with OEM.
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You're not welcome in this thread, with your drum brakes

I actually had no problem with the Taco's drum brakes, great shoe life and way less hassle than the stupid mini drum parking brake inside the 4runner's left rear rotor.
 
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Jeremy556 said:
You're not welcome in this thread, with your drum brakes

I actually had no problem with the Taco's drum brakes, great shoe life and way less hassle than the stupid mini drum parking brake inside the 4runner's left rear rotor.
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I have a MT. Don't need brakes.
 
1engineer said:
The pads make the heat. The rotors absorb and dissipate the heat. If your pads got too hot it's because the rotors couldn't get rid of the heat fast enough. If you get a higher temp pad (ceramic let's say) then unless you get a higher temp rotor then you will only get a bit more bite initially. Once those higher temp pads heat up, transfer the energy into the rotors, get them hot, you are right back to what you had before.

It's always going to be the delta T between pads and rotors that determine fade. If you have a hotter pad, then that makes a hotter rotor and *poof* you are back to where you were with OEM.
Click to expand...



True, but a pad with a higher operational temp range won't give up the ghost as easily when the rotors have excessive heat. I have hundreds of on track days under my belt driving street cars or slightly modified cars for stock class racing, but with essentially street brake systems, and swapping to a higher temp pad makes a huge difference. And doesn't destroy rotors. A regular OE pad isn't good for more than a few laps and some barely make it one, but still streetable pads like an HP+, RS4, or Cool Carbon in a stock system will last all session and be fine for multiple weekends of school/lapping use. My wife's car has rs4's on it now for the simple fact that the extra safety margin makes me feel good. Probably overkill but the cost isn't much more in relative terms when redoing the brakes and I do the work myself. I think I will reach out to Porterfield and see what they have for our 4Runners. They can put virtually any pad compound on any backing plate so hopefully Toyota used an easy to source plate otherwise a donor set has to be sent to them to fab from.


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Jeremy556 said:
You need to downshift and let engine compression do the vast majority of your braking. On long steep grades you will overheat any pad/rotor combination.



75k on my first set of pads, 100k on my second, both had life left in them, just was a convenient time to change them.
Click to expand...



Yeah, I will do that more next time. Just don't out of habit and the fact that brakes a much cheaper and easier to work on than engines and transmissions so I use them more. :- )


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