Brake service question

[blue2006]

i have about 20k on my 2006 and i knew it was going to need new pads soon, so i took her to the dealer in westbury NY today for a 5k service and brake inspection. as i thought, the pads needed to be replaced, and the guy says on the phone $389...i said, wait a minute, why so much to change the pads, i dont want to cut the rotors...i was told that if i didnt cut the rotors there would be a lot of pulsing and wear issues with new pads and that you always have to re-surface the rotors with new pads...
since i only needed to change the fronts, and i wasnt sure if his info was 100%, i said to go ahead and do it...what i wanted to know is, do you always have to resurface the rotors when changing pads? and if you dont, whats the end result going to be? i had thought that the pads would just wear a little quicker while they conform to the shape of the rotors...i don't really know though...also, is $389 a fair price for the work?

 

[brad6841]

I was told by my mechanic to never cut the rotors on newer 4Runners. He said that he had tried it and they would come back a few thousand miles later and the rotors would be shot.

If you were feeling a 'pulsing' then it was possible that your rotors were warped along with your pads being shot. If your rotors were in fact warped and you installed new pads then, yes, the warped rotors would have ruined the new pads in a very short period of time.

Just keep an eye on your rotors to see if they begin to pulse in a few thousand miles.

 

[jeober]

have about 20k on my 2006 and i knew it was going to need new pads soon,

20k is short brake pad life. how did you know that new pads were needed?

I think a service shop will want to turn the rotors because they don't risk that the rotors weren't true or that the brake pads don't seat properly and make noise.

Turning the rotors is not normally costly -- replacing the rotors, however, is. And you're going to pay considerably more at the dealer service than at a shop that does brake repair -- the dealer rate is almost $100/hr. What was the break down of parts and labor?

 

[blue2006]

well, on my '03 i did a lot of city driving and i definatley used the V8...so at about 16/17k i had blown thru the pads on all 4, requiring pads and rotor work all around which set me back almost a 1G...so on this truck i knew that i was going to be close to that mark although i do much less city driving these days. If i recall correctly, with the '03 the dealer said the pads are speced for 15k miles... I also had been feeling a pulsing when coming to a stop the last few times i drove it, so i knew it was close. I dont have much time to get the truck in for servce, so i had the dayoff today and took advantage of it...unfortunatley they've had my car ALL DAY so far. The main reason i keep it serviced at the dealer is because i dont have any reliable mechanincs that i know personally and would trust with the car, and secondly, when i go to sell it i willl have access to all the maintenance records easily.

 

[jeober]

I guess there's something to be said about driving style and brake life. I am probably the other extreme - 65K and good life left on the original brakes (and tires).

 

[Uneek]

Never resurfaced rotors on any of my cars yet. One of them got 95k miles before it was sold--majority of was city driving and pads were replaced every 10k or so. The other one has 120k miles now and on it's fifth or six set of pads. Both cars were on the original pads, no pulsing or vibrations.

 

[greasefingers]

I have had about a dozen rotors cut in my time. There is not an issue. They machine off about 10 thousandths of an inch or so depending on the condition of the rotor (how deep the original scratches are). It is BS that they will warp faster since they really do not take a significant amount off. The factor service manual will state the minimum thickness of the rotor which can be measured with a Micrometer. I will many times have them cut once before purchasing a new set.

Side note: most rotors do not warp. They instead develop hot stops or a change in material composition at a localized section of the rotor or they develop an invisible thin film on them from the pads which is deposited in a non-even like manor.

Hot spots can not be corrected by machining (as it is too deep) but a thin film can be cut off.

If you are doing the work yourself then purchasing a set of new pads and rotors is cheap (around $ 200 to 300) However, if the dealer is doing it can cost as much as $ 500 to 600.

 

[CuzzinOlaf]

Back brakes take all of 30-45 minutes for BOTH rears which includes jacking the car up and taking off the tires. Fronts are very simple too but take a little longer because of the 4 pistons. As long as the none of the pistons are frozen the fronts aren't so bad either.

After I did my brakes (a first for me) this time I WILL NEVER pay the outrageous prices they change to change out pads.

The fronts are VERY easy too.. but the backs are a joke.

 

[RickyCRX]

What in the world are you guys doing to only get 15-20k miles out of a set of brake pads!?!? I'm approaching 94k miles on my 4Runner... I've owned it since around 52k miles. I have probably put a good 5-6k miles of towing on it since I bought it (I'm rarely towing anything less than 2k lbs, and usually up more around 4500-5000lbs).... I just checked my brake pads a week and a half ago and although the fronts are getting thinner now, I don't think I'll need to replace them before 100k.

I drive my 4Runner hard (enough to where I've faded the brakes several times while screwing around), but I have no idea how anybody could go through a set of pads in 20k miles unless you're driving like a complete fool.

Ricky

 

[Koz]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?threadid=22720&highlight=Brake+pad

Koz

 

[jeober]

Back brakes take all of 30-45 minutes for BOTH rears

That's very quick for a first timer. It took me about that time to remove one rear wheel, the caliper, the caliper frame, and then very carefully each pad to inspect. The rotor on one side came off easily. The other rotor was difficult. By the way two M8 screws can be used to break loose a rotor but be careful if the rotor is hung on the parking brake shoes. If so, back these shoes off with the star wheel adjuster using a screwdriver through the rotor hole positioned at 6 o'clock. Try going in the down direction first.

The front pads come out easier (as long as the pins aren't too rusted) but the caliper needs to come off the same with two bolts (17mm socket) if the rotor needs to be removed.

I recently did all of this plus a brake fluid replacement. My pads were less than 50% worn. I made a pressure adapter but ended up having the wife pump the brakes for each wheel (ignition on for the rears). I also added a second set of wire springs in the fronts ($4 for both springs).

 

[Kmvreter]

Getting close to 100,000 Km (~62K mi.) so decided to pull the front wheels to measure (and possibly change) the brake pads. I have 30% life left on the pads.

... The front pads come out easier (as long as the pins aren't too rusted)...

The pins were nicely siezed (the conditions and road salt up here don't help.) It took some shots of WD-40 and persuasion with a hammer and punch to get them out. Used emery cloth on the pins and a small diameter rat-tail file in the holes to remove the corrosion buildup. Lubed them on the reinstall.

Lesson learned: tap the pins slightly in and out to check them. Lube as required at each future tire rotation to keep them freed up in their holes.

ps. I'll put new pins and clips in the spring when I do the pads.

 

[davefisher]

Wow, I bought my truck used at 37k, have 61k on it now. It was my understanding that at the "cert pre owned" service at 37, they replaced the pads. Just had it in for 60,000 mile service and they said pads were 75% - 80% remaining. I also do a reasonable amount of moderate towing. I must drive like a panzy. haha