Brand new water pump leaking

WellsR

New member
New to forum but not Toyotas or other off road vehicles and working on them.

I just did the timing belt and water pump on my new to me 99 3.4l runner this weekend. Bought all Toyota parts for the job, did the belt, t-stat water pump and a few smaller things.

Ran it last night then got home, left the skid plate off intentionaly to check for leaks. Came out this morning and theres a slow leak on the cardboard I placed under it. Very disappointed in my self. I cleaned the block where the water pump sits for about an hour then put the new gasket on and torqued it to 14 ft/lbs. I know its the water pump because if I feel behind the starter wire bracket and pull my fingers up there's red coolant on them.

What could I have messed up? Wrong torque spec or something? Any tips? Gonna go back in in a week or 2 and re torque it. Just hope it's not leaking enough to wreck my new belt.
 
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Did you remove all the old FIPG off the block? Did you use a new metal gasket?

I had a buddy buy a new Mopar water pump from the dealer and he took it out of the box at the parts counter to find a hairline crack in it so they gave him another. But this is a Dodge I am speaking of.....
 
Did you remove all the old FIPG off the block? Did you use a new metal gasket?

I had a buddy buy a new Mopar water pump from the dealer and he took it out of the box at the parts counter to find a hairline crack in it so they gave him another. But this is a Dodge I am speaking of.....

Yes I did, cleaned the block for nearly an hour making sure it was perfect., layed a very small amount of toyota fipg on the new metal gasket as well. As I said, was definitely torqued correctly also. I'm just stumped, should I have not put the very fine layer of fipg on the new gasket?
 
That is correct. No FIPG. Sorry to give ya the bad news.

I once added some RTV on a Chevy waterpump for a 350 just to keep the gaskets in place. Leaked all over. Got some new gaskets, no RTV and was good to go the next eight years.

A rule of thumb for me is if a gasket is used, no RTV needed.
 
Great googily moogily that sucks. Hang in there.

I'm trying. Gonna be about 2 weeks untill I can tear it all back down.

I put a little fipg on my fingers and spread it around the whole gasket. I thought it would help if anything.
 
Use a small layer of Ultra Grey with the gasket. There is a reason that the OE company's are using this instead of an actual gasket for oil pans on some cars. Its good shit.

Blue
 
I put a little fipg on my fingers and spread it around the whole gasket. I thought it would help if anything.

I thought about doing that - I used the Aisin kit with the aluminum rubber lined gasket. I searched and searched until i found confirmation to leave it dry.
 
I thought about doing that - I used the Aisin kit with the aluminum rubber lined gasket. I searched and searched until i found confirmation to leave it dry.

Shit, yea ill see if I can pick up a new gasket and try again. Before that though I've been thinking of going back in and adding another 1 ft/lb of torque to the bolts. Think that would do more damage then good?
 
Well, that sucks Toyota won't sell a gasket with out the pump.

Anything on torquing it a bit more? Really don't feel like doing it all again lol
 
Alright, update on the situation, got a new pump from Toyota going in during the long labor day weekend, no fipg. Pray for no leaks
 
When I first started working on cars ages ago, I thought I was doing the right thing by adding sealant such as ultra gray, red, or whatever the temp - situation called for to metal / coated gaskets, even valve cover gaskets. This is a NO, especially on squishy gaskets like valve cover gaskets. What happens is - it dries, then as things thermally expand and contract, micro cracks form in the silicone and things start leak.

Same thing happens on metal / coated gaskets but usually it takes a bit longer to start showing signs of a leak.

Bummer it happened - good learning experience though
 

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