break rotor suggestion

SilverBullet01

SilverBullet01

Senior Member
so its time to do my breaks, and i need new rotors with it. mine are at the end of their life span. i have been searching for tundra calipers, but havent seen any at a really good deal to want to really do this mod yet.

so main question, any suggestions for a great brand of break rotor, that may have some more stopping power than the factory rotors.

also, what size do i need for a 2001 sr5 with the factory 5 star wheels?

thanks as always :D
 
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I would go with brembo blank rotors personally if I had to keep it stock. I'm running the Tundra upgrade and It really does make a huge improvement in braking performance, as well as the fact that they are extremely difficult to warp.
 
Napa offers a premium quality, Napa brand, rotor that's a premium OE rotor. I have always had great luck with those. They seem very resistant to warping, more so than factory rotors in my experience.
 
I put Autozone Rotors and their high-end pads on my girlfriend's 2000 SR5 about 2 months ago, and have had no problems whatsoever. The new brakes are quiet (I mean NO squeak at all), stop effectively, and completely eliminated the vibration she had in the steering wheel while braking.

The total tab for the job was under $150.00 including the brake cleaner, Permatex stop-quiet stuff for the back of the pads, and some shop towels.

I should note that we went through a meticulous process of bedding in the pads before the brakes were used for any serious braking, and I think that has alot to do with the brakes performing well no matter what you go with.
 
i got some ebc blanks off ebay for like 60 dollars shipped and got a smoking deal on a set of hawk super duty pads for like 10dollars its hauls my 285s down just fine ive got about around 3-4k on them working great so far
 
juiceboxer said:
I would go with brembo blank rotors personally if I had to keep it stock. ..
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The dealer replaced my rotors twice on my 3rd gen for the brake TSB and both OE sets still warped. I went with Brembo and never had another problem the next 90,000 miles.
 
ive been talking to a few buddies and they are all using power slot slotted rotors. not cheap but not overly expensive. anyone use these recently?
 
the rotor comes off with like 15 minutes of do it yourself work. really simple. pull off the wheels, 2 bolts per caliper, caliper off, rotor off, new rotor on.
 
SilverBullet01 said:
the rotor comes off with like 15 minutes of do it yourself work. really simple. pull off the wheels, 2 bolts per caliper, caliper off, rotor off, new rotor on.
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Just did ours. Real world 30 minutes per. Two caliper bolts are large and locktited in. Needed to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar. Twisted a 3/8 extension in half first try. Have to unbolt brake line clamp and go easy with caliper so as not to bend brake lines. Need to spread pads a small amount with C clamp to get calipers back on.
 
I recently replaced my brakes with drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads from r1 concepts. I read before i bought them that some people were having minor problems, but i went for them anyway and I am super stoked on them. They do great, stop faster, and hopefully they will not be as easy to warp them. I used that duralast crap last time and they warped within a month. :dammit:
 
just a suggestion but check Ebay and a store called v12 motorsports in Cali. Bought new front rotors for my truck and i have to say they are friggin awesome. Got slotted and Drilled rotors for 130$. was hesitant about buying from Ebay (quality issues) but these are by far the best brakes I have had on any car or truck. toyota was nice enough to put 4 piston calipers on the 3rd gens so the caliper is fine dont mess with it just get new rotors and ceramic or metalic pads and that will make a HUGE improvement.these brakes are so good that I can stop from 75mph so hard that it makes my neck hurt...no joke
 
BTO said:
Just did ours. Real world 30 minutes per. Two caliper bolts are large and locktited in. Needed to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar. Twisted a 3/8 extension in half first try. Have to unbolt brake line clamp and go easy with caliper so as not to bend brake lines. Need to spread pads a small amount with C clamp to get calipers back on.
Click to expand...

x2 on the breaker bar. I needed a long 1/2" breaker and a big-ass 1" box wrench on the end of that for leverage. Use an impact air tool if you have one.
You don't have to unbolt the brake line clamp. There is a stainless steel clip that holds the fitting in place. Just pop the clip up and the brake line slides right through. I found this out on my drivers side caliper after breaking the bolt off the passenger side.
The biggest b*tch of all was the rusted pad guide pins. Do yourself a favor and get a bag of 4 pins for $7.50 if yours look rusted at all. Mine were frozen in place. They are soft steel and will get mangled if you have to pound them out.
I ended up going with Advance Auto's OEM rotors and Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic pads. I had some vibration issues after install, but they worked themselves out after a few miles. I was impressed with the stopping power during the bedding process, but I have not attempted to lock the wheels up since. I can only assume that they work even better now with ~1000 miles on them. About $40 each for the rotors and pads IIRC
 
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