Broken fuel door hinge
- Thread starter Kmvreter
- Start date
Kmvreter
New member
Thought I would go ahead and remove the existing hinge portion attached to the body.
So here's a question for those of you who have done this:
What's the trick or secret on how to remove the existing rivets?
Tried drilling out the center pin but got nowhere.
Tried drilling with a larger size bit to cut through the rivet but came up against the center pin and again got nowhere.
Can I punch out the center pin?
I'm just being cautious because I don't want to damage any body work or enlarge any existing hole in the sheet metal.
So here's a question for those of you who have done this:
What's the trick or secret on how to remove the existing rivets?
Tried drilling out the center pin but got nowhere.
Tried drilling with a larger size bit to cut through the rivet but came up against the center pin and again got nowhere.
Can I punch out the center pin?
I'm just being cautious because I don't want to damage any body work or enlarge any existing hole in the sheet metal.
TechWrench
Senior Member
I used a bit about 2/3rd's the size of the rivet head, and didn't have any problem. But, I do remember that one started to spin before it was cut all the way through, and I had to angle the bit about 15 degrees to get it to cut the rest of the way through. I did use a new bit, which was sharp enough to cut with no problems.
Kmvreter
New member
Gotcha. Thanks.
Edit: 3/8" bit worked to remove most of the head. Pried the rest off and popped the "core" back. I'm left with 2 clean holes for the new hinge.
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Atlanta_man
New member
I think I'll lube mine today
sounds like a medium sized repair job that is best to dodge
sounds like a medium sized repair job that is best to dodge
TechWrench
Senior Member
Sounds like you are on your way to being done.
My top hinge pin is bent, so much so that I can just open it enough to get the fuel nozzle in there at an angle. I tried to bend it back but it looks like I'm more likely to break it than bend it back into place.
I guess I'm not understanding things (plus I can't get the fuel door open enough to really get a good look for myself), but once that top hinge pin breaks, is there no way to fix the hinge pin without the whole door assembly? How is the hinge pin attached to the door and is that the problem with just replacing the hinge pin because of how it's attached to the door? Any solutions for when that top hinge pin breaks other than replacing the whole door assembly?
Sorry to ask for clarification, but I'm struggling to understand how to fix this without ripping the door off in a moment of rage/stupidity to get a better look.
Thanks.
I guess I'm not understanding things (plus I can't get the fuel door open enough to really get a good look for myself), but once that top hinge pin breaks, is there no way to fix the hinge pin without the whole door assembly? How is the hinge pin attached to the door and is that the problem with just replacing the hinge pin because of how it's attached to the door? Any solutions for when that top hinge pin breaks other than replacing the whole door assembly?
Sorry to ask for clarification, but I'm struggling to understand how to fix this without ripping the door off in a moment of rage/stupidity to get a better look.
Thanks.
JB40
New member
I'm 99% sure someone in this thread or another replaced his pin with a coat hanger. Search around. I'd help but my Cel connection is iffy where I am at.
TechWrench
Senior Member
I thought I explained this earlier in the thread, but here goes..............
Think of the hinge for the fuel door as similar to a common house door hinge, with one big exception. The very top of the hinge pin is bent at a 90 degree angle, and this end is fixed behind a flange on the inside of the fuel door. This bend makes the pin rotate with the door when it moves. There are two flanges on the door side of the hinge that are crimp rolled around the pin, keeping it in place on the door side of the hinge. On the part of the hinge (the fixed part) that is attached to the fender, with pop rivets, there are two more flanges that are roll crimped around the pin and spaced in between the two on the door side. These two crimps are not as tight as the other three, so when the door moves, the pin pivots inside them. What seems to be happening, at least in my case, is that between the top crimped flange on the door side, and the top flange on the fender side, the pin gets stressed and starts to weaken, bend, then eventually break. I tried to remove my pin, to replace it with heavy wire (as suggested), but because of the way the crimps were formed, it is impossible (at least for me) to get to the ones on the fender side of the hinge because they rolled behind the hinge, facing the fender. I eventually had to drill out the pop rivets and work on the hinge on the bench. I did get the crimps open enough to remove the old pin. I fashioned a new pin out of heavy bailing wire, which was the same size as the original pin. I had a hard time re-crimping the flanges to get them exactly where they originally were. So, the door didn't fit the same as before. I eventually ordered a new door assy, had it painted to match, and mounted it. Problem solved. Now I make it a part of my regular maintenance to spray a bit of while grease on the hinge to keep it from happening again (I hope). The only choice you have, IMHO, is to get the door open far enough to be able to reach the heads of the rivets with a drill and drill them out. Once the door is removed, you can try your luck at just replacing the hinge pin. But, I am guessing that you will end up replacing the entire door assy, before you take a hammer to it. :biggrin1:
Nervo19
Member
What a terrible design. Let me point out now that the gas door in my elderly '89 4Runner still works perfectly. It is screwed in so no rivets to drill out should I need to replace it.
If anyone is reading this whose hinge hasn't broken yet, get some white lithium grease and coat the hinge.
If anyone is reading this whose hinge hasn't broken yet, get some white lithium grease and coat the hinge.
earthrealm
Senior Member
too late for me...broken hinge pin..
not willing to shell out 50 bucks for a fuel door assy
shit still opens , just needs more care to close correctly
not willing to shell out 50 bucks for a fuel door assy
shit still opens , just needs more care to close correctly
Leave door off entirely?
Thinking about fixing my fuel door issue as well because the body is starting to oxidate where the door runs on it. Instead of buying a new door assy or replacing the bent pin, what would the downsides of leaving the door off entirely? (After repainting of course)
Thinking about fixing my fuel door issue as well because the body is starting to oxidate where the door runs on it. Instead of buying a new door assy or replacing the bent pin, what would the downsides of leaving the door off entirely? (After repainting of course)
Onefastchevy
New member
Road grit will build up around there and you will have a much higher chance of getting dirt etc in your fuel tank.
Also no protection from gas thieves.
Also no protection from gas thieves.
deltadeath93
New member
Here is the condition of mine. Thankfully no body rubbing going on. As fun as that sounds….:eyebrows:
I have same exact problem on my 06 sr5 is there any way to fix this? can we tap out the broken one and replace with a piece of coat hanger? or is hinge pin a get able item?
I don't want to have to repaint just the gas tank door for this.
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TechWrench
Senior Member
What you see is a common failure of the gas door hinge pin. It's too late now, but lubricating the top and bottom hinges on the door side may have prevented this failure, if one knew about it in advance.
I had the exact same issue with the door on my '03 SR5, and removed the assembly by drilling out the pop rivets that attach it to the body. I did my best of remove the old pin and replace it with some HD bailing wire I have that was the same size as the oem pin. It isn't easy, because you have to pry open each one of the hinge flaps that are rolled around the pin. The problem I had was getting the hinge flaps to close around the new pin again. I did manage to install a new pin, but it never worked the same again. So I finally bought a new door assembly, had it painted to match, and installed it.
earthrealm
Senior Member
My fuel door hinge has been broken for a while now, and just lost the spring recently, thus i need to buy a new complete door assy.
could you point me to where you bought the fuel tank door
could you point me to where you bought the fuel tank door
AuSeeker
Elite Member
This is the cheapest one I could find, not sure on shipping, these doors sell for between $40+ and up to $61+ and then shipping unless you do eBay or Amazon and get free shipping, there one auction on eBay with only 1 left for $47.21 and free shipping.
2004 Toyota 4Runner oem oem Fuel Door - OEM Toyota Parts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM...ash=item41d3e52728:g:UT8AAOSw3s1aBMW1&vxp=mtr
Edit: It looks like you will need to order the spring as well as it doesn't look to be included with the door but maybe [MENTION=937]TechWrench[/MENTION] could comfirm if that is the case
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TechWrench
Senior Member
I bought mine from an online Toyota Parts store, maybe Concelli, but not sure.
As the previous reply stated, you should be able to find it at several sources. Use one of the online parts stores to get the oem part number, and then do a search for it.
TechWrench
Senior Member
I am pretty sure that the spring is a separate item, as are the pop rivets to mount the new door to the body.
