Broken/snapped caliper bolt

varol1

varol1

New member
As part of getting ready for the Tundra brake upgrade, I began removing the bolts needed to remove the calipers. I got three of them out with a breaker bar but of course, one ended up snapping off inside the caliper :(

bxxk9uJ.jpg


I've been searching T4R as well as Google for the past half hour but am not finding a consistent solution. Should I plan to work through the advice on Second Chance Garage or does anyone have different advice? I don't own cobalt bits, extractors, or a torch.

Thanks in advance.
 
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varol1 said:
As part of getting ready for the Tundra brake upgrade, I began removing the bolts needed to remove the calipers. I got three of them out with a breaker bar but of course, one ended up snapping off inside the caliper :(

bxxk9uJ.jpg


I've been searching T4R as well as Google for the past half hour but am not finding a consistent solution. Should I plan to work through the advice on Second Chance Garage or does anyone have different advice? I don't own cobalt bits, extractors, or a torch.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

It's broken in the spindle correct?
 
You can try to wiggle the caliper off, but the broken portion of the bolt may prevent that. In worst case scenario, since you're going TBU anyway, you can separate the two caliper halves from each other by removing the other four bolts, then you'll have access to the portion of the bolt that's broken off (assuming it's protruding out of the spindle).
 
4Runner4Leon said:
You can try to wiggle the caliper off, but the broken portion of the bolt may prevent that. In worst case scenario, since you're going TBU anyway, you can separate the two caliper halves from each other by removing the other four bolts, then you'll have access to the portion of the bolt that's broken off (assuming it's protruding out of the spindle).
Click to expand...

Yeah, I wiggled it quite a bit but the caliper won't come off. Disassembling the caliper itself is a great idea, I'll give that a shot tomorrow.
 
See if you can fit a hacksaw blade in between the caliper and knuckle. It won’t be quick but should work. Maybe even try using a sawzaw if you have one.
 
varol1 said:
Disassembling the caliper itself is a great idea,.
Click to expand...

That will get caliper off, tricky part is getting bolt out, stating the obvious I know.
DIYing this one requires some skill and equipment or you'll end up in worse shape needing a different spindle.
I don't see you getting bolt out using easyout, it gaulded bad enough to break bolt that size.
Was me, Tear it down take spindle to machine shop let them set it up in Pro drill press or milling machine drill it out chase threads with tap.
How lucky are you feeling?
 
96RedRunner said:
That will get caliper off, tricky part is getting bolt out, stating the obvious I know.
DIYing this one requires some skill and equipment or you'll end up in worse shape needing a different spindle.
I don't see you getting bolt out using easyout, it gaulded bad enough to break bolt that size.
Was me, Tear it down take spindle to machine shop let them set it up in Pro drill press or milling machine drill it out chase threads with tap.
How lucky are you feeling?
Click to expand...

Agreed. With the caliper disassembled, you'll have (hopefully) a portion of the bolt shank sticking out. I'd try a bunch of penetrating oil, then maybe some serious heat, and then put a pair of vise grips on it and see what happens.

But as stated above, if it keep resisting, then taking the whole spindle off and bringing it in to someone with proper tools would be the next step.
 
Man that really sucks!

Considering it generated enough force to snap, I'm guessing it's probably seized in there.. Even if you have enough room to grab on to the bolt with locking pliers it may not budge. Definitely worth a shot before having to drill it out.

Which leads me to the next option. Like [MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION] mentioned, it might be better in the long run to take the whole spindle somewhere to get the bolt drilled out and then the hole re-tapped. Drilling out bolts like this can be really tricky and time consuming.
 
JWaldz said:
Man that really sucks!

Considering it generated enough force to snap, I'm guessing it's probably seized in there.. Even if you have enough room to grab on to the bolt with locking pliers it may not budge. Definitely worth a shot before having to drill it out.

Which leads me to the next option. Like [MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION] mentioned, it might be better in the long run to take the whole spindle somewhere to get the bolt drilled out and then the hole re-tapped. Drilling out bolts like this can be really tricky and time consuming.
Click to expand...

Definitely words of wisdom. The chances of getting it out with locking pliers are small, but at least you can try, after getting some oil and heat on the threads.

I recently had the joy of removing a stuck Lexus O2 sensor - no rust, but completely galled in place. It just would not budge. After lots of heat and penetrating oil, it moved with about a million foot pounds of torque, but it turned out that the hex was being rounded, rather than the sensor turning (and that's with the proper O2 socket). I decided to sacrifice the socket, and welded it to the sensor. With another million foot pounds of torque, I saw motion of the sensor - but what I finally took out was the sensor body, the rest of the threads stayed in the exhaust manifold! I've never seen anything like it, it literally stripped the threads right off the sensor.

Ended up having to drill and tap for a M18-1.5 helical insert, THAT was fun doing in such a confined space.

RuNWeHw.jpg
 
That bolt sticks through the spindle mount leaving exposed 2-3 threads to rust.
That's what seized, You won't unscrew it you'll have to turn it to the right and go out back side.
With it seized enough to break bolt the nub left won't be enough to grip with whatever and remove it.
Different vehicle I had this happen, I welded a nut to nub broke nut off.
DIYing sometimes you gotta go for help or get really lucky.
 
Depending on what you have access to, this be a candidate for center punching and drilling out with standard drill bits. At some point, the drill be might grab and just push the stub out the back side.

-Charlie
 
96RedRunner said:
That bolt sticks through the spindle mount leaving exposed 2-3 threads to rust.
That's what seized, You won't unscrew it you'll have to turn it to the right and go out back side.
With it seized enough to break bolt the nub left won't be enough to grip with whatever and remove it.
Different vehicle I had this happen, I welded a nut to nub broke nut off.
DIYing sometimes you gotta go for help or get really lucky.
Click to expand...

Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions so far. I think 96RedRunner nailed it - here's the other side of the bolt:

aPzvVtf.jpg


I was going to get left-hand drill bits, though it doesn't seem like it makes any difference which way (CW/CCW) I try to turn this thing. I thought about the hacksaw option but I don't think I can get it in there to attack the seized end of the bolt. Taking the caliper also won't help in this case. I'm planning on picking up a center punch and a few cobalt bits tonight and going to town.
 
varol1 said:
I'm planning on picking up a center punch and a few cobalt bits tonight and going to town.
Click to expand...

Good on you giving it a shot. Since your buying center punch look for the set that steps up like drill bits.
If you can't find step punches get one with a round shank wrap tape around it.
Then you can use caliper hole to get on center, that's a critical point when drilling a bolt out.
I'd for sure get a 1/8" bit or so for a pilot bit to start.
You may know all this just saying, don't envy you with this PITA job good luck.
 
Ah, much better picture.

If the bolt is fully threaded to the point where it broke, your best bet is getting it out by screwing it all the way through.

Luckily, you aren't re-using your calipers so you can just take them apart to get the caliper and rotor out of the way.

If vice grips or whatever don't work (threading it in deeper to pull out from the 'back' side of the hole (towards where the wheel mounts), then a standard right hand drill bit will work. You probably will need to avoid pulling that rust through the knuckle. You might also need to pull the knuckle off the truck to get it done.

-Charlie
 
I would also suggest drilling it out, but not how everyone else is telling you to.

If that bolt is truly seized in there, heat will be your best friend. I would center punch the bolt, and use left hand drill bits. Start with 1/8", then 3/16", and lastly 5/16". Drill the bolt will create heat, and will start to break the bolt loose. You might get lucky when you get to the 5/16", and maybe it'll back out as you're drilling through it. I would also recommend using a 135* split point bit. Those are less prone to walk on you.

You can also use MAP gas to heat spindle where the bolt threads in. Once it's hot grab a candle, and press it against the exposed threads. The heat will draw the wax the in, and will loosen the bolt.

Mike
 
Last edited:
MStudt said:
. Start with 3/16", then 1/8", and lastly 5/16".
Mike
Click to expand...
Maybe start with 1/8" which = 2/16", then 3/16" , 1/4"(4/16"), 5/16" ??
stepping up in size or am I missing something ?
Either way good luck OP, really doesn't look that rusty.
 
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