Need opinion on how to remove broken bolts from frame

TejasRunner01

New member
Hey everyone,



Having a fun time over here trying to figure out how to remove 3 broken frame bolts. The 12 mm heads broke right off..



I’ve used a speed out bolt extractor, channel locks, penetrating oil, nothing has helped.



Would you try to cut a grove in the middle first and try the old flat head method or just go straight for the tap and die set? I do not currently have access to a welder or torch.



Thank you!
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[MENTION=151941]TejasRunner01[/MENTION]

More penetrating oil, some time for it to soak in, the try again. Might try to tighten by 1/4 turn then loosenif you get any movement add more penetrating oil.

Find a way to heat the frame and cool the bolt, I've used the old 500 watt Halogen worklights and an upside down can of computer dusting spray aimed at only the bolt. Idea is to shrink the bolt and expand the frame if only slightly. Might try tapping the studs with a hammer to see if that loosens up the grime.

If still no joy, then drill out and re-tap.
 
if additional soak time, heat and a strong-locking vice grip doesn't do the trip I would personally grind them down, drill them out and tap to the next size up bolt..
 
Heat is your friend. Heat the area around the broken bolt( try to stay away from the bolt as much as possible ). Get good locking pliers and remove broken bolt. I would chase the threads after it has cooled down. If you don't have Heat then grind flush, center punch broken bolt and drill. Try a helicoil kit, this way you will be able to use the same size bolts as it had before. I did this for my broken skid bolts and it worked perfectly.

Suggestion, after you remove the old bolts and are ready to install the new ones, use anti size on the new bolts. I use it on almost every bolt now.

Good luck.
 
Best bet is to weld a nut to nubs, seeing you don't have a welder you could have a shop do it.

Or, once you've decided they are not coming out, just punch them up into the frame. Those are tacked on nuts on the inside that are pretty easy to punch out with a BFH and quality chisel. Then fish new bolts in from a nearby side hole in the frame, you'll end up with nuts on the bottom side but that's usually fine.
 
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You can try to slot them, but I would give a very low probability of success. If the threads have enough friction to shear the head of the fastener off, slotting it is a massive waste of time. Drilling is an option, but this is an M12 . . . not exactly a small fastener and you risk embedding the numerous drills that you have to use, and the extractor, in the fastener.

You can get a MAP torch for less than $60. Welding is king as it heats and allows you to install a method of removal with increased surface area. Outside of a portable EDM, those are your options.

As [MENTION=210827]Boort[/MENTION] mentioned, applying cold after heat can be helpful.
 

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