Broken Transfer Case Casing

hungryeddy

hungryeddy

New member
I changed my t-case fluid a week ago and developed a leak that i just noticed today. I went under to look at it and saw that the case around where the drain bolt goes was cracked. I don't have a torque wrench for that so I may have over torqued...

Now I don't know what to do... Can I replace just the case cover? How hard will it be to find one? I'd imagine most people want to sell the entire case.

anyway here's what it looks like:

<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-04_13-53-31_723.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-04_13-53-31_723.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-04_13-53-31_723.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-04_13-39-50_17.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-04_13-39-50_17.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-04_13-39-50_17.jpg"/></a>

its leaking pretty bad. there's jb weld on it now and it slowed it down i good deal. but i need a more permanent fix. any help would be appreciated
 
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Drain oil, clean last drop of oil with soap and wipe off with isopropyl alcohol. Then try JB weld and put a hose clamp around to keep it tight in place. Apply JB weld around the hose clamp as well. Leave enough time to dry before putting it to use
 

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If you want to fix it properly, it needs to be welded, and then run a tap to clean up the threads. That means taking the transfer case out of the truck, and disassembling it so you are dealing with just the part that is cracked.

Welding Aluminum is a bit trickier than Steel, as it conducts heat more readily than Steel. Ideally you would clamp the part to a heatsink, so the part doesn't warp during welding. You should also preheat the part up to say 400° F, before attempting to weld it.

Finding an experienced Welder would be the best bet, if you choose to go that route. It can be fixed, but it might be cheaper to find a complete used T-case, and install it.

JB Weld and hose clamps, is a temporary get-me-back-to-civilization only type of repair. Relying on such a "repair" for any length of time longer than is absolutely necessary, is just begging to be stranded somewhere with a seized T-case.
 
^^^ Agree. JBWeld and a hose clamp will work fine while you work towards a permanent fix, but keep an eye on it and I'd carry a spare quart of two of gear oil just in case it lets go (does the 3rd gen share fluid between the tcase and trans? If so, you'll want more than just a quart or two :D).

I'd replace the whole case. By the time you take it off the truck, tear it down, pay somebody to weld it up, then put it back together, you'll have invested way more time and money than you need to. $130 bucks for a transfer case at my local Pick and Pull (probably less if you find somebody parting a truck out), maybe a couple hours to swap it out, and you'll be on your way.

Oh, and go spend $60 on a decent torque wrench. :D
 
I'll see if i can get a hose clamp around there. This sucks. I'm gonna look for a t-case since that will ultimately be the fix for this.

I think i'm just going to pick up an older case for cheap and just swap the case covers. Would this be very hard? I'd imagine that i have to change the gasket if i were to break the seal. and of course pick up a good torque wrench and tq everything to spec.
 
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Couldn't get a hose clamp on there... just not enough room.

I was able to find a t-case for $120. Its from a 97 with 200k miles. I'm thinking of just taking the casing off of it.

Do you guys think i can replace the covers while the tcase is still on the truck?

It looks as if there's just FIPG between the two halves creating the seal. Is there anything else I should be aware of?

Whats a good equivalent to FIPG for this application?

Here's what the new case looks like:

<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-05_16-48-47_347.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-05_16-48-47_347.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-05_16-48-47_347.jpg"/></a>

you can see the 2-1 mark on this one:
<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-05_16-48-56_286.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-05_16-48-56_286.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-05_16-48-56_286.jpg"/></a>


<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-05_16-49-03_363.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-05_16-49-03_363.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-05_16-49-03_363.jpg"/></a>

I also noticed a stamp mark on the case itself. on the new to me case the stamp reads "2-1" on my stock case it reads "5-1"(see above pics) - is there any difference? i did verify that it was a normal j-shifter as mine is.
 
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KidVermicious said:
Putting your guts in the new case is going to be way more work than just swapping cases.
Click to expand...

Can you explain? From first glance, it looks like i can unbolt the bolts holding the cover on. it doesn't seem like anything is attached to the case cover. I think wrestling with the case will be more work.

also, i saw the truck it came out of. i'm pretty sure the guy was not messing around when it came to wheeling. I don't want an abused t-case. the truck said 204xxx miles, but he was geared lower with bigger tires so i'm not sure how accurate that is. plus there's fluid seeping through in some spots so i would need to crack it open to reseal it anyway.
 
It's up to you, but I wouldn't try and repair it on the truck anyway.

If it's anything like my first gen, you're looking at 8 driveline bolts and then however many bolt the tcase to the transmission, plus a couple wires, and it's off. You don't even have to drop the crossmember like I did on my '85. You can easily bench press the new one up there, and there's an output shaft to slide it onto that'll hold it in place while you put the bolts back in. Two hours, tops.

To pull the cover, don't you have to pull the flange first?
 
KidVermicious said:
It's up to you, but I wouldn't try and repair it on the truck anyway.

If it's anything like my first gen, you're looking at 8 driveline bolts and then however many bolt the tcase to the transmission, plus a couple wires, and it's off. You don't even have to drop the crossmember like I did on my '85. You can easily bench press the new one up there, and there's an output shaft to slide it onto that'll hold it in place while you put the bolts back in. Two hours, tops.

To pull the cover, don't you have to pull the flange first?
Click to expand...

I have a bad back and try to avoid any "bench pressing" or any other heavy movements. Even then, i cannot see how its easier to drop the whole thing than replacing the cover that's fully visible with nothing in the way of removal besides the rear drive shaft.

I removed the output flange of the new to me case and it seems like i can just remove the entire cover and it'll go over the output shaft. all i saw was a few seals i'll need to be careful with..
 
hungryeddy said:
I have a bad back and try to avoid any "bench pressing" or any other heavy movements. Even then, i cannot see how its easier to drop the whole thing than replacing the cover that's fully visible with nothing in the way of removal besides the rear drive shaft.

I removed the output flange of the new to me case and it seems like i can just remove the entire cover and it'll go over the output shaft. all i saw was a few seals i'll need to be careful with..
Click to expand...

FWIW, it's not just a cover. Bearing races seat in that half of the case. So if you aren't prepared for that, I'd suggest locating a good repair shop that can do it for you.

Here's a cutaway pic of a version of the VF1A Transfer case:
 

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So I have been tinkering around with the spare t-case i picked up. I was able to take the rear case off. It wasn't that bad, i just had to remove one snap ring retainer and tap it with a plastic hammer as specified in the FSM.

I did have to pry the thing open as well.
<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-24_17-57-07_807.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-24_17-57-07_807.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-24_17-57-07_807.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-24_17-57-39_150.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-24_17-57-39_150.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-24_17-57-39_150.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-24_17-58-19_957.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-24_17-58-19_957.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-24_17-58-19_957.jpg"/></a>

these little metal balls came out of the t-case when i cracked it open. looks like they have something to do with the shifter. anyone know how to properly put them back into the casing?

<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-26_15-06-52_449.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-26_15-06-52_449.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-26_15-06-52_449.jpg"/></a>

i'm still debating whether i want to try to replace the rear casing with the t-case still on the truck. i really don't want to crack it loose from the tranny.

has anyone removed their t-case? how long did it take? i'm getting sick of the gear oil leak i'm having.
 
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hungryeddy said:
<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-24_17-58-19_957.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-24_17-58-19_957.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-24_17-58-19_957.jpg"/></a>

these little metal balls came out of the t-case when i cracked it open. looks like they have something to do with the shifter. anyone know how to properly put them back into the casing?

<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-05-26_15-06-52_449.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-05-26_15-06-52_449.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-05-26_15-06-52_449.jpg"/></a>
Click to expand...

The metal balls are locking balls. Those balls sit against the depressions in the shifter rods.

To reinstall them, you need to remove the two screw plugs that hold the springs and balls in place against the rods. The springs are still in place as you can see in the rod recesses. So before you attempt to fit the new case half in place, those screw plugs and springs need to come out.

You might be able to gently tap the new case half into place, if the bearing races are lined up with their seats in the new case half.

Clean up any traces of gear oil with brake clean, place a bead of FIPG on the edge of the case half that is staying in the truck, and then tap the new case half into place until it seats against the other half, and bolt the halves together.

At that point you can put the locking balls back in the holes where you removed the screw plugs, put the spring in on top of the balls to hold them in place against the rods, and reinstall the screw plugs. Then refill the T-case with gear oil.

I've worked on quite a few transfer cases, over the years. How long it would take to remove the VF1A from your truck depends almost entirely on whether the correct tools are available, and how much experience the person has.

I would suggest to anyone that is considering trying it, to get the Factory Service Manual that describes the procedure.


I think there is a good chance you can get your new case half installed, with the T-case in the truck.
 
02SE said:
The metal balls are locking balls. Those balls sit against the depressions in the shifter rods.

To reinstall them, you need to remove the two screw plugs that hold the springs and balls in place against the rods. The springs are still in place as you can see in the rod recesses. So before you attempt to fit the new case half in place, those screw plugs and springs need to come out.

You might be able to gently tap the new case half into place, if the bearing races are lined up with their seats in the new case half.

Clean up any traces of gear oil with brake clean, place a bead of FIPG on the edge of the case half that is staying in the truck, and then tap the new case half into place until it seats against the other half, and bolt the halves together.

At that point you can put the locking balls back in the holes where you removed the screw plugs, put the spring in on top of the balls to hold them in place against the rods, and reinstall the screw plugs. Then refill the T-case with gear oil.

I've worked on quite a few transfer cases, over the years. How long it would take to remove the VF1A from your truck depends almost entirely on whether the correct tools are available, and how much experience the person has.

I would suggest to anyone that is considering trying it, to get the Factory Service Manual that describes the procedure.


I think there is a good chance you can get your new case half installed, with the T-case in the truck.
Click to expand...

Hi thanks for the reply. After tinkering around with the case a little bit, i can see how the springs and balls go in. You need to remove the screw plug on both sides and put in a ball, then the spring, then the screw plug, then repeat for the other side.
However, when i removed the screw plugs and got the springs and balls out, this oval shaped thing also fell out:
<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/SDavisen/media/2013-06-21_13-21-31_980.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/SDavisen/2013-06-21_13-21-31_980.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-06-21_13-21-31_980.jpg"/></a>

what is this and how do i reinstall it? I tried to put it back in once I reinstalled the case half back onto the rest of the t-case. I think it goes in the middle, separating the two springs. however I couldn't get it to all fit no matter how i put it in, even trying in every gear the t-case can go in. Maybe the case half has to be off the t-case, install the oval thing, attach case half to the t-case, then springs and balls? I do have the factory service manual and was following it for the tear down, however the t-case they show is not the same one as mine, well in some pictures it is, but when they explain installation the space for the springs and balls is on the t-case side and even then they don't show the oval thing, that i can see.
I should mention i'm doing reinstallation practice on the spare t-case i got. I want to get all this down to the t (pun intended oh yeah :drum: ) before I start working on my truck.
 
New to the community here and can't seem to figure out how to post a new thread...
Anyways, I have a 97 LTD and I broke the transfer case where the drain bolt is (torque wrench failed me). I have sourced a 2000 LTD transfer case and am wondering if anyone knows if I can just swap the rear case and leave all of my original transfer case intact?
Thanks.
 
"02SE" seemed to think it could be done (a few replies back).

It's certainly worth a try, since removing & reinstalling one of these cases is not a walk in the park. I've done it.


Andreas
 
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