Budget Rear Bumper Build

98OzarksRunner

New member
The basis for the bumper is the factory receiver hitch. I wanted to maintain the ability to pull a heavy trailer, and most of the bumpers I saw looked like they were weaker than the factory hitch.

I cut the hitch and moved it up about 3 1/2" by putting it inside the frame. I welded nuts to the hitch and drilled the frame. The hitch bolts go in from the top (4 1/2" grade 8 bolts on each side - plenty strong).

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Then I welded 3" rectangular tubing (3/16" thick) to extend the hitch to the sides, and welded uprights to the ends, for the tire and gas can swing outs (to come later). (Not the greatest picture, but you get the idea.)

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Then we filled in the gaps and made the side wings. I have a friend with a metal-working business and I raided his scrap pile (and he had his guys cut the pieces to my specs - saved lots of work). The wings and step plate are 10 ga and the other pieces are 12 or 14 ga.

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We welded braces from the wings to the frame (3/4" rect tubing) for rigidity. We ground down the welds on the non-structural visible surfaces. Here's the mounted bumper, before we pulled it off for paint.

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After it's painted, I'll put some non-skid traction tape over the step areas (to hide the welds in the center and keep me from falling off of it).

It's a little more squared off in the back than I'd like but the uprights are certainly strong enough to hold a tire mount. I'm going to weld tabs to them and drop a bolt through the tabs for the swing-out. If I were doing it again, I'd probably just weld a long piece of 3" tubing over the hitch. That would make it more compact and still allow room to put the tire mount on the uprights. Currently, it is pretty much the same dimensions as the factory bumper so it fits the body lines well (except for being squared off in the back).

I have less than $200 in it, including paint and the trailer hitch ($60 from the junk yard), but too many hours of labor to be profitable. I think it weighs about 75 lbs (I can lift and mount it pretty easily).
 
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Looks good. Only thing is that most people remove the tow hitch for clearance. If you've made a bumper around that hitch you've actually lowered your rear clearance over having a stock rear bumper w/o the tow hitch. If that doesn't bother you then more power to you and keep up the good work!
 
Looks good. Only thing is that most people remove the tow hitch for clearance. If you've made a bumper around that hitch you've actually lowered your rear clearance over having a stock rear bumper w/o the tow hitch. If that doesn't bother you then more power to you and keep up the good work!

Thanks. The bottom of the bumper is the same as the stock bumper (since I raised the hitch by 3 1/2" by mounting it inside the frame rails instead of under them). The only ground clearance I lose is the 3" at the receiver itself. I'd rather have the hitch and make up the clearance with a lift. If I didn't need the hitch, I could cut off the receiver and the clearance would be the same as the factory bumper.
 
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Nice :)

I've been debating whether or not to chop up my hitch to use it for my rear bumper build.
 
Might want to weld some sort of support into the sides. As it is, it looks like a hard hit on the side part of the bumper could smash the sheet metal into the body. Most other bumper builds I've seen have a 1/2" or so support going from the bumper wing back to the frame rail.

Other than that, looks like a good solid build.
 
Might want to weld some sort of support into the sides. As it is, it looks like a hard hit on the side part of the bumper could smash the sheet metal into the body. Most other bumper builds I've seen have a 1/2" or so support going from the bumper wing back to the frame rail.

Other than that, looks like a good solid build.

Thanks. It doesn't show in these pictures, but we welded a 3/4" rect tubing brace on each side from the wings to a tab that bolts to the frame.

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I finished the paint and mounted the bumper. I painted it with VanSickle tractor paint (enamel). That stuff is thick and pretty tough (though I didn't use hardener). It should be easy to touch up too.

I put some skateboard grip tape on it to hide some welds and make it safer (so I don't fall off when it's wet).

Next is to build the tire and gas can mounts. With that and a storage unit inside, I'm going to need some FJ springs to raise it up. It lost 1/2" with the bumper weight.

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man this thing looks sweet, would have been awesome if you had some checkered plate for the flat areas. Or maybe some rear D rings
 
UPDATE - Tire Carrier Added

I added a tire carrier to the bumper. I still have to paint it and we're adding a gas can carrier to the vertical post, but it's pretty much done. I used a bronze bushing with a grade 8 bolt in double-shear for the hinge. The latch pulls against a hard rubber piece (though it has a 1/4" steel plate in there for now). It has been on for about 3 months and down LOTS of corrugated dirt roads with no issues.

The cross tube is 2" steel (1/8" thick). The mounting tabs are 1/4" steel.

I mounted the CB and 2M ham antennas on it and added a ground strap to the body.

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pretty slick! Mind crawling under your rig and showing me this brace you put on the side? I'm gonna attempt at copying this.
 
pretty slick! Mind crawling under your rig and showing me this brace you put on the side? I'm gonna attempt at copying this.

The side brace isn't much but doesn't need to be. It keeps the bumper off the body and should provide some protection if I slide into a rock, though probably not much. You could add a larger brace if you want. This is 3/4" rectangular tubing held on by a tab and self-tapping bolt.

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great job Man, and good write up as well. :bravo: Maybe I missed it but I was wondering ho much this all cost you? since your title is budget bumper build I would hope it is a pretty low number.
 
great job Man, and good write up as well. :bravo: Maybe I missed it but I was wondering ho much this all cost you? since your title is budget bumper build I would hope it is a pretty low number.

I paid $60 for the hitch, and another $30 for the 3" tubing, and another $35 for the 2" tubing. I have a friend with a metal shop who gave me the sheet metal, which would probably have been another $40 wholesale. I paid $70 for the latch (I think) and about $80 for the bushings, bolt, and tubing for the hinge. I paid $140 to get it blasted and powder-coated, so the total is about $450 or so all together. You could knock $100 off by painting it with rattle-can but I wanted it to look good on the black truck. If you already have a hitch, you could probably get it done for $325-350 on the cheap.


Here are a couple more detail pictures (before we welded on the side/wing braces).

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