Building Sliders, Advice Welcome

[eatmorechickenx]

I decided to try my hand at building a pair of sliders, but am looking for input so I get them right. I have a decent amount of experience with basic metal fabrication and welding but have never built sliders before. I'm just going with something simple - a 1x3 piece of rectangle tubing 67 inches long just under the pinch weld and hanging out about an inch or so, just enough to hold the bottom of the door off rocks. Making 3 arms out of 1 1/2 inch 1/4 in wall square
tubing to mount each of them to the frame. I'm trying to keep them somewhat discreet while still being as functional as possible. I was going to use square plates to weld the arms to for welding to the frame. How large/thick should the plates be to support the vehicles weight? Also, are there any issues with having them right up against the pinch weld, or would it be better to leave a gap, and if so, how much. Does anyone see a problem with this design or have any other tips/advice? Any input is welcome. I already have the metal cut for them, just looking for advice before I continue so I don't mess them up. Of course, once their done in a week or 2, I'll post pictures.

 

[Doc2012]

I decided to try my hand at building a pair of sliders, but am looking for input so I get them right. I have a decent amount of experience with basic metal fabrication and welding but have never built sliders before. I'm just going with something simple - a 1x3 piece of rectangle tubing 67 inches long just under the pinch weld and hanging out about an inch or so, just enough to hold the bottom of the door off rocks. Making 3 arms out of 1 1/2 inch 1/4 in wall square
tubing to mount each of them to the frame. I'm trying to keep them somewhat discreet while still being as functional as possible. I was going to use square plates to weld the arms to for welding to the frame. How large/thick should the plates be to support the vehicles weight? Also, are there any issues with having them right up against the pinch weld, or would it be better to leave a gap, and if so, how much. Does anyone see a problem with this design or have any other tips/advice? Any input is welcome. I already have the metal cut for them, just looking for advice before I continue so I don't mess them up. Of course, once their done in a week or 2, I'll post pictures.

first, should change your name to Chic-fil-A. lmfao.

Second, LEAVE A GAP. the purpose of rock sliders is to protect. No gap=no opening of doors.

third, if you're welding the plates to the frame, a 3x3" of 1/4" is plenty. Put them in the frame, like a diamond; so the points are towards the top and bottom of the frame, NOT parrallel.

fourth, gussett it all. Put some on the frame plates to legs, and legs to sliders.

 

[eatmorechickenx]

Ok, thanks for the advice. Never thought of doing the plates as diamonds. It makes sense that it would be a lot stronger. I figure I have to do something, it seems like every time I go to Uwharrie and run Daniel, I leave a little bit more plastic behind.

 

[Doc2012]

You could always buy some.

4xInnovations has some that are great, and fairly cheap. 184 bucks. Not too damn bad....

1990 - 2013 Toyota 4Runner Off Road Rock Slider

 

[4x4mike]

Assuming you have the tools and know how making sliders how you described should be very easy and cheap. I'd leave a gap as mentioned. I've had my Stubbs sliders bend up some and if it were against the body I might have problems. A gap also allows for easier painting and cleaning as well as room for mud and snow to get pushed out.

A small gap and out from the body a bit also allows you to actually 'slide' on the slider. I do more nerfing and sliding on the sides than on the under sides. If the sliders were in/discreet and under the pinch seem that rock or obstacle would be farther under the body than I'd like.

Keep in mind most sliders are two rows of tube. Even without tube they should be around that wide to protect the body as it bulges somewhat (not perpendicular to the ground).

 

[snivilous]

Make sure you have some kind of gap between the body and top of the slider, because regardless how strong you make it it will deflect a bit.

Mine are nothing fancy, just two arms though I might bump it to three this summer since it flexes a little too close to the fiberglass fenders. Mine are designed to be bolted up with four bolts per side, and then we added some welds for redundancy. They may look weak, but I did full long hand and finite element analysis on them and they have taken plenty of abuse!

 

[eatmorechickenx]

Ok, thanks guys. I don't want to buy them because I want the experience. If these work out, I'll probably be trying my hand at bumpers next. Plus, I have plenty of scrap metal at work, and I'm on a budget.

 

[Doc2012]

plus, i have plenty of scrap metal at work, and i'm on a budget.

hook a brother up!!!!

 

[vm_boy]

If you decide to run an outer tube (sliders, as opposed to rails, I guess), be sure to take into account any cladding on the rear door, particularly if you have a Limited. I was building mine this past weekend and wanted to keep it high and tight to the body. We got to the rear and realized "that fender flare" was actually a door. It was too late to bend it down because we had already made a bend for the kickout. The guy had to cut, insert an inner tube, twist, weld it back.

For the gussets, if you're using square tubes to connect to the frame, you might consider gussetting along the side of the tube, rather than the top/bottom middle.

 

[vm_boy]

I thought of something else. If you cap the ends, you might consider drilling some holes on the bottom of both ends. Without the holes, you will lock air in there at the current pressure. Whenever you change elevations or temperature, there will be a pressure variation between the inside and outside, just like a water bottle. I'm not sure what problems that might cause with 3/8" steel, but something crazy could happen, like when you flick a pressurized straw. Also, if water somehow gets in there (say from the humidity of the air when you cap it), you could have rust issues. Having weep holes might prevent that. I would love to hear other people's thoughts on this.

 

[downpour11]

Didn't read all the posts, not sure if this was said, but:

You can beef up the frame with some 3/16 plate if you want.

Gap between body and slider should be around 3/8" - 1/2" to allow for frame flex.

Also, stich weld the sliders to your frame to allow for frame flex.

 

[IBallEngineer]

I thought of something else. If you cap the ends, you might consider drilling some holes on the bottom of both ends. Without the holes, you will lock air in there at the current pressure. Whenever you change elevations or temperature, there will be a pressure variation between the inside and outside, just like a water bottle. I'm not sure what problems that might cause with 3/8" steel, but something crazy could happen, like when you flick a pressurized straw. Also, if water somehow gets in there (say from the humidity of the air when you cap it), you could have rust issues. Having weep holes might prevent that. I would love to hear other people's thoughts on this.

Having been from see level to 9000 feet with no explosions, I don't think there is anything to worry about. Weep holes do allow condensation to drain, but they also allow the air in to start with. They are going to rust from the inside out, no way around it, but not so quickly that it matters.