CSL
New member
Built 2000 4Runner - $9,000
POST UPDATED. NEW PRICE.
$9,000
For sale in Denver Colorado area:
I am selling my customized, off road, expedition, rock-crawling 2000 Sport 4Runner. This rig is my baby and I would not be selling it if not for the fact that my “real” babies are growing up, and the three of them don’t fit well in the back row anymore. I have moved up to a Land Cruiser.
This vehicle is for the buyer that wants the extras that I have put into this rig. This 4runner is meant and built to be a trail rig. This is a Colorado rig, and has no rust underneath.
NOTE: The winch in the photo is coming out and I am keeping it. Sorry.
ASKING PRICE: $9,000
-140K miles
-Auto tranny
-cloth interior
-aftermarket CD player with IPOD controls
-sunroof
-tow hitch
-rear differential locker
Overview of vehicle:
-ARB front bumper
-Factory rear differential e-locker: If you know what this is, you know it’s value compared to having to do it aftermarket. If you don’t know what it is, this may not be the vehicle for you…well…what it does is locks the rear axle so both tires turn no matter what. This is an amazing off road feature!
-Sport model with hood scoop: Everyone seems to want the hood scoop. It is stock, and non-functional, but looks really cool.
-Husky floor mats: These floor mats for front and rear, cost $180 new. They are made from stuff that lasts forever and they are cupped on the sides so they hold the melted snow water.
-Dual optima battery box and aux. fuse box: I modified this vehicle to fit two yellow top Optima batteries in the stock location. Parts of this mod have been removed, but what is left is still a good start: dual battery box located where stock battery would go, one yellow top Optima battery, aftermarket fuse box. All you need is the second battery and an isolator of your choice.
This was not a cheap mod, but is absolutely awesome. I have no fear of my batteries. I have run my fridge for almost 48 hours in Colorado this summer without starting the vehicle before the alarm went off for the aux. battery. No problem, the starting battery was fine. It was a good excuse to go do some rock crawling and charge the batter back up!!
Here are some pics to help describe and a link to a thread I posted about it.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/63214-dual-battery-set-up.html
-OME 882 front coils
Land Cruiser rear coils: These are the front coils off of an 80 series Land Cruiser. They fit 4runners and give about 3" of lift
-Sonoran Steel differential drop: This lowers the front differential to help reduce the CV axle angle…a little. Here is a thread about my install:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/59416-s-s-diff-drop-experience-photos.html
-5 stock 5-star rims with 5 BFG all terrain 265/75/16 tires: I rotate all 5 tires, so the spare always match. They still have a ton of work left in them.
-Additional overhead light modified into overhead cargo door: I added a light so that I could see while at the kitchen in the back of the vehicle. Here is a link to more details:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/52230-cargo-door-light-brand-new-mod.html#post426307
-Additional power outlets run to back seat: I added outlets where the ashtray in the back used to be. The cup holders above still work.
Tundra front brakes I have the 199mm front brake calipers and rotors from a Tundra. This provides much better braking.
-Deck plate mod
-ISR mod: The intake pipe silencer was removed and replaced with a metal pipe. I still have the silencer and it can be easily reinstalled. This removal is supposed to give you a bit more power, but I doubt it.
-One rebuilt CV axle (last year, by Toyota)
-Poly rack and pinion bushings
-Front sway bar end links moved to rear sway bar for increased length:
-Front sway bar removed: I still have the bar to give with the rig, but I like it with it off. I bought poly bushing because they were supposed to be better but they were so stiff that the bolts in the bracket broke. I thought I’d see how it is without it. It is way more flexy on the trails. It does lean a bit more in turns, but only if your driving crazy. I don’t mind it. I don’t use this vehicle for my daily driver either.
-Extended stainless steel rear brake line
-Homemade roof rack: I bought this rack as just a cage, then welded feet on it so that it mounts in eight places to the roof. I welded uprights on the end so you can put a ladder on top. It has quick fist clamps mounted around it to hold one short shovel, one standard shovel and an axe. It also holds a high lift jack. This is all just on the sides. Inside I can fit four large plastic boxes, or tarp my stuff.
-daytime running lights removed: I wanted to be able to drive into camp without shining lights in my friends tents/eyes...also made room for the dual batteries under the hood)
The known problems/issues
I am an honest seller, so I will tell you of the issues that I know of. I just paid Toyota about $250 to look over the whole vehicle and tell me anything that needs to be done.
-The clear coat on the hood is peeling and breaking. It should be redone or something.
-Rear bumper has a dent from backing into a tree.
-wheel flares removed for visibilty of front tires while 4-wheeling. This left holes in the body around the wheels. I covered them in grip tape circles with the intention of running rhino liner down the sides. It is a huge benefit while 4wheeling and totally worth it for how I used this vehicle.
-Scratches, as would be expected of a Colorado trail rig...pin-striping…
-The power steering pump is on the way out and needs to be replaced.
-The rack and pinion is getting loose, and could probably stand to be rebuilt someday soon.
-The differential fluid needs to be changed.
-The driver’s door automatic lock doesn’t work.
-Needs new front rotors. I bought aftermarket Tundra rotors and pads and they did not hold up. The rig really needs new Toyota rotors and pads, in my opinion. I am now a believer in only OEM rotors and pads.
POST UPDATED. NEW PRICE.
$9,000
For sale in Denver Colorado area:
I am selling my customized, off road, expedition, rock-crawling 2000 Sport 4Runner. This rig is my baby and I would not be selling it if not for the fact that my “real” babies are growing up, and the three of them don’t fit well in the back row anymore. I have moved up to a Land Cruiser.
This vehicle is for the buyer that wants the extras that I have put into this rig. This 4runner is meant and built to be a trail rig. This is a Colorado rig, and has no rust underneath.
NOTE: The winch in the photo is coming out and I am keeping it. Sorry.
ASKING PRICE: $9,000
-140K miles
-Auto tranny
-cloth interior
-aftermarket CD player with IPOD controls
-sunroof
-tow hitch
-rear differential locker
Overview of vehicle:
-ARB front bumper
-Factory rear differential e-locker: If you know what this is, you know it’s value compared to having to do it aftermarket. If you don’t know what it is, this may not be the vehicle for you…well…what it does is locks the rear axle so both tires turn no matter what. This is an amazing off road feature!
-Sport model with hood scoop: Everyone seems to want the hood scoop. It is stock, and non-functional, but looks really cool.
-Husky floor mats: These floor mats for front and rear, cost $180 new. They are made from stuff that lasts forever and they are cupped on the sides so they hold the melted snow water.
-Dual optima battery box and aux. fuse box: I modified this vehicle to fit two yellow top Optima batteries in the stock location. Parts of this mod have been removed, but what is left is still a good start: dual battery box located where stock battery would go, one yellow top Optima battery, aftermarket fuse box. All you need is the second battery and an isolator of your choice.
This was not a cheap mod, but is absolutely awesome. I have no fear of my batteries. I have run my fridge for almost 48 hours in Colorado this summer without starting the vehicle before the alarm went off for the aux. battery. No problem, the starting battery was fine. It was a good excuse to go do some rock crawling and charge the batter back up!!
Here are some pics to help describe and a link to a thread I posted about it.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/63214-dual-battery-set-up.html
-OME 882 front coils
Land Cruiser rear coils: These are the front coils off of an 80 series Land Cruiser. They fit 4runners and give about 3" of lift
-Sonoran Steel differential drop: This lowers the front differential to help reduce the CV axle angle…a little. Here is a thread about my install:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/59416-s-s-diff-drop-experience-photos.html
-5 stock 5-star rims with 5 BFG all terrain 265/75/16 tires: I rotate all 5 tires, so the spare always match. They still have a ton of work left in them.
-Additional overhead light modified into overhead cargo door: I added a light so that I could see while at the kitchen in the back of the vehicle. Here is a link to more details:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/52230-cargo-door-light-brand-new-mod.html#post426307
-Additional power outlets run to back seat: I added outlets where the ashtray in the back used to be. The cup holders above still work.
Tundra front brakes I have the 199mm front brake calipers and rotors from a Tundra. This provides much better braking.
-Deck plate mod
-ISR mod: The intake pipe silencer was removed and replaced with a metal pipe. I still have the silencer and it can be easily reinstalled. This removal is supposed to give you a bit more power, but I doubt it.
-One rebuilt CV axle (last year, by Toyota)
-Poly rack and pinion bushings
-Front sway bar end links moved to rear sway bar for increased length:
-Front sway bar removed: I still have the bar to give with the rig, but I like it with it off. I bought poly bushing because they were supposed to be better but they were so stiff that the bolts in the bracket broke. I thought I’d see how it is without it. It is way more flexy on the trails. It does lean a bit more in turns, but only if your driving crazy. I don’t mind it. I don’t use this vehicle for my daily driver either.
-Extended stainless steel rear brake line
-Homemade roof rack: I bought this rack as just a cage, then welded feet on it so that it mounts in eight places to the roof. I welded uprights on the end so you can put a ladder on top. It has quick fist clamps mounted around it to hold one short shovel, one standard shovel and an axe. It also holds a high lift jack. This is all just on the sides. Inside I can fit four large plastic boxes, or tarp my stuff.
-daytime running lights removed: I wanted to be able to drive into camp without shining lights in my friends tents/eyes...also made room for the dual batteries under the hood)
The known problems/issues
I am an honest seller, so I will tell you of the issues that I know of. I just paid Toyota about $250 to look over the whole vehicle and tell me anything that needs to be done.
-The clear coat on the hood is peeling and breaking. It should be redone or something.
-Rear bumper has a dent from backing into a tree.
-wheel flares removed for visibilty of front tires while 4-wheeling. This left holes in the body around the wheels. I covered them in grip tape circles with the intention of running rhino liner down the sides. It is a huge benefit while 4wheeling and totally worth it for how I used this vehicle.
-Scratches, as would be expected of a Colorado trail rig...pin-striping…
-The power steering pump is on the way out and needs to be replaced.
-The rack and pinion is getting loose, and could probably stand to be rebuilt someday soon.
-The differential fluid needs to be changed.
-The driver’s door automatic lock doesn’t work.
-Needs new front rotors. I bought aftermarket Tundra rotors and pads and they did not hold up. The rig really needs new Toyota rotors and pads, in my opinion. I am now a believer in only OEM rotors and pads.
Last edited:
:lmao: Wish I saw this two months ago and you shipped to east coast Canada. :sobbing:
