Bumps and Bottoms

[Maritimer]

What kind of a bump do you guys need to hit to get the rubber cones inside the springs to hit? A directly related question is how much space is normal between the cone and its striking point?

Mine will do that if I hit a large-drop divide between asphalt and mud where there's road work being done, if I'm doing about 40mph, say. A pretty hefty bump, and good dipper not just a pothole, when I'm doing the same speed will hit the cones as well.

I may be driving it a bit hard since new shocks and rear springs because it feels more performance oriented, or I may have to look at reworking things on the rear-end. I'm just not sure.

 

[Maritimer]

I measured the distance between the axle and the bump stop as 3.5", and the distance between the cone inside the coil and where it would hit as 1". I would say that's with about 100lbs of gear in the truck.


The distance between the cone and where it would hit seems small, but there's nothing that seems amiss with the spring mounts or the springs. The shop would've clearly noticed a bad mount.


I'm running this spring, new this summer:
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner Coil Springs - Moog 81043 - Rear Suspension

 

[2002_thundercloud]

bumpin and bouncin

Ahh! This is exactly why I finally replaced my rear springs.

You could barely slide your index finger between the cone and lower spring seat. My truck continually felt like it was bottoming onto this cone. The ride was absolutely horrible. I guess over time, the springs weaken and this is the result. If this cone is designed as an overload spring, it's way too stiff and not progressive enough. If I remember correctly, it is also used on the LC and probably better suited for that vehicle's weight. I installed OME 906 and Bilstien HD's (yellow) in the rear and LOVE it. I also installed 880's and 5100 (silver) (for Tundra) on the front and love them too. My truck is 100% street driven and if anything, the rear is still a bit soft for my taste, but it's a huge improvement over the old toyota springs. I still don't understand why people say OME and Bilstiens don't mix well, I like it, but again my truck doesn't do any rock climbing. Some may disagree, but I think a quick fix for the bottoming would be to remove the very lowest circle on the cone. It would give you a bit more compression before you bottom. As long as you are not towing, the removal of that material will not be noticed. Older 3rd gens don't even have this cone.

 

[Maritimer]

I will consider cutting the cone. It's very strange that it is so close, especially since the rear sits at a good height, and there are new shocks and springs on there. The shocks and springs are both the appropriate type for this year of Runner; I have Moog and KYB.

I guess I'm curious as to why so little clearance, or if it's normal. I'm sure taller springs and taller shocks would fix it, but this install I just did was $$$ and I like the ride, just not this cone deal.

 

[Gerdo]

That cone is a Jounce Bumper. It's main purpose is to act like an overload spring. In theory at normal load there should be adequate space. When you say that you have new springs and shocks, what brand/type are they? The stock rear coils are 160# spring rate. This will provide a smooth ride but if you load it, yes you will be on the jounce bumpers. If your new shocks are soft, they will allow the suspension to compress faster allowing the bumper to come in contact.

Sure you can cut off a donut or two but if you put a heavy load in back it will really sink low.

I have remover a few donuts but I'm also running a stiffer/taller spring and firmer shock.

 

[Maritimer]

I'm using KYB Monomax front and rear, and have Moog springs on the rear. In fairness to the rubber cone, it usually hits under fairly extreme conditions, such as hitting a good bump doing 40-50mph, or driving the rear end off a curb (last night loaded with kids and stuff playing on parking lot dividers at low speed).

It's not like I'm hitting the bump stops higher up (which would be disconcerting). The shocks give a really nice ride for what I like, letting me feel the road no matter the conditions, and they clearly work, since whenever I push the rear end (which is hard to do compared to the dribbling I could do by hand with the shot shocks and springs two months ago) it shoots back up to rest position with no rebound.


http://www.carparts.com/details/Toy...l_3-dot-4L/KY564002.html?loc=Front+Suspension

http://www.carparts.com/details/Toy...yl_3-dot-4L/KY565002.html?loc=Rear+Suspension

1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner Coil Springs - Moog 81043 - Rear Suspension

 

[genEus]

I measured the distance between the axle and the bump stop as 3.5", and the distance between the cone inside the coil and where it would hit as 1". I would say that's with about 100lbs of gear in the truck.


The distance between the cone and where it would hit seems small, but there's nothing that seems amiss with the spring mounts or the springs. The shop would've clearly noticed a bad mount.


I'm running this spring, new this summer:
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner Coil Springs - Moog 81043 - Rear Suspension

The distance between the cone and the bump stop is about 1" - my mechanic expected it to be closer to 3" but now I'm reading that 1" is "normal?" Can anyone verify what the distance between the cone and the bump stop should be with a new stock spring? ('02 4Runner)

 

[shootmymime]

I just replaced my springs because my cones were sitting on my axles
It might not look like they are but trust me, they were.

So i ended up replace everything and going with toytec super flex coils for the rear. you can also check out my build thread for more info.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/128879-shoots-build-thread-2.html

 

[TCMach]

What cone?

 

[Mauzer]

What cone?

Nice :flypig:

 

[CenCalifoothill15]

???

Ha, I've always been curious about this... I don't have these "cones" on my 98 Rig, did Toyota start using these in 99? Any input would be great.

-guess I don't need them... or?

*thanks for bringing this up [MENTION=56311]Maritimer[/MENTION]. :biggrin2: