Burning oil smell a year after valve cover gasket job

[atalarico]

Hey all,

So, I replaced my VC gaskets last summer. It took me a whole weekend the first time, and then I had to go back and do it again because the kit I bought didn't include camshaft plugs/seals. The second time around took me a lot less time, but I still had to scrape and reapply the FIPG and that sucked.

It seemed like the burning oil smell slowly got better and went away for a while. I didn't really clean up the caked on oil in the engine bay anyway, other than the stuff I could easily reach, so I figured it was a bit of leftovers burning off.

Well, the burning smell is back, and it's particularly bad if I'm sitting still in traffic using the vents. If I use the mixed vent or re-circ, it's tolerable. I have to check the dipstick after my last trip, but I'm guessing it's a slow leak so it probably won't register on the dipstick.

What should I be looking for to see if it's the VC gasket again? The only place I can see what looks like a leak is at the very front of the driver's side valve cover around the oil fill cap and downward. I'm planning on at least taking off the plenums so I can check the torque on the bolts too. I know not to over-torque them, but I'm wondering if maybe I did after I first noticed the smell coming back. I can't see any visible breaks in the valve covers though, but I know that doesn't mean they're not there.

The T4R isn't my daily anymore, so I guess I could do the VC gaskets again pretty quickly now that I've done it a couple times and replaced a ton of hoses and cleaned things up along the way. The FIPG scraping is the most annoying part, but it was annoying because I was so thorough, which took a lot of time.

If I can't be certain that's where the leak is coming from, I might take it to the shop I trust to see if they can find where the leak is coming from.

 

[JayRolla]

Hey all,

So, I replaced my VC gaskets last summer. It took me a whole weekend the first time, and then I had to go back and do it again because the kit I bought didn't include camshaft plugs/seals. The second time around took me a lot less time, but I still had to scrape and reapply the FIPG and that sucked.

It seemed like the burning oil smell slowly got better and went away for a while. I didn't really clean up the caked on oil in the engine bay anyway, other than the stuff I could easily reach, so I figured it was a bit of leftovers burning off.

Well, the burning smell is back, and it's particularly bad if I'm sitting still in traffic using the vents. If I use the mixed vent or re-circ, it's tolerable. I have to check the dipstick after my last trip, but I'm guessing it's a slow leak so it probably won't register on the dipstick.

What should I be looking for to see if it's the VC gasket again? The only place I can see what looks like a leak is at the very front of the driver's side valve cover around the oil fill cap and downward. I'm planning on at least taking off the plenums so I can check the torque on the bolts too. I know not to over-torque them, but I'm wondering if maybe I did after I first noticed the smell coming back. I can't see any visible breaks in the valve covers though, but I know that doesn't mean they're not there.

The T4R isn't my daily anymore, so I guess I could do the VC gaskets again pretty quickly now that I've done it a couple times and replaced a ton of hoses and cleaned things up along the way. The FIPG scraping is the most annoying part, but it was annoying because I was so thorough, which took a lot of time.

If I can't be certain that's where the leak is coming from, I might take it to the shop I trust to see if they can find where the leak is coming from.

Did you buy cheap kit from a parts store or online, or an OEM kit. I had this issue on an old ford and all mitsubishi's. OEM all the way even on gaskets.

 

[atalarico]

Did you buy cheap kit from a parts store or online, or an OEM kit. I had this issue on an old ford and all mitsubishi's. OEM all the way even on gaskets.

The kit I bought was "Toyota V6 3.4L Complete Valve Cover Gasket Set OEM Made In Japan 1121362020KIT". I'm hoping that was right, but that kit also didn't include the camshaft seals (which is why I didn't realize I had to replace them). Those seals I got from the dealership directly.

Is it really usually just valve cover seals that cause a burning oil smell then? It seems like 99% of the things I'm finding online all say that burning oil = VC gaskets! I mean, I kind of hope so because other things could be more expensive or signal the death of my engine.

 

[nissanh]

Thank you for coming up with this post. I too started experiencing a burning smell in the runner. I did the valve cover gaskets not so long ago (approx. 4000 miles). After reading your post, I went to check the gaskets with a help of a mirror. I then saw an oil leak near the rear most bolt on the driver's side valve cover. I tighten the bolt again. Hope this fixes the issue.

I bought the valve cover gasket kit (felpro) from a forum member. Guess these are no good.

 

[kball]

Hopefully you didn't over tighten the valve cover bolts. The first thing I would do is make sure none of the cover ears are cracked off.

 

[T4R2014]

Might just be some loose bolts. Sometimes we get so paranoid about cracking the valve cover that we don't tighten the bolts enough. I know I did that a few times, but you learn from mistakes. Hopefully it's as simple as that.

 

[nissanh]

I didn't have an inch-lb torque wrench at the time, so I used the extension (no wrench) and turn the best way I could with my hands. When I check this yesterday, it turned about 1/3 of a turn. Fingers crossed!

 

[atalarico]

Thanks for the input, all!

Sounds like this is my plan o' attack this weekend:

1.) remove the stuff on top of the valve covers again (intake plenums, throttle body, etc.) so I can get a good view all the way around the valve covers. Look for obvious oil leak signs.

2.) undo the bolts, look for cracked ears, and if none found, retighten them lightly (firm finger tight and then one turn) correctly and in the correct pattern (which I don't remember right now, but it's somewhere in a book I have or something).

What I'm worried about with #2 is that if I loosen the bolts won't that break the FIPG seal that's on the various parts of the VC mating surface? I reallllly don't want to re-FIPG stuff in 90F heat.

Also, I'm betting/hoping it's just as simple as the less easy to reach bolts have loosened themselves over time. I'm sure I wasn't diligent about cleaning the oil from the threads of the VC bolt holes, and since it's such a light torque anyway...vibration...etc.

 

[Ruiner]

Might just be some loose bolts. Sometimes we get so paranoid about cracking the valve cover that we don't tighten the bolts enough. I know I did that a few times, but you learn from mistakes. Hopefully it's as simple as that.

they also work themselves back out from heat/cold cycles if you dont locktite them in .

 

[T4R2014]

they also work themselves back out from heat/cold cycles if you dont locktite them in .

But to be smelling that bad in that little time?

 

[Ruiner]

But to be smelling that bad in that little time?

mine did it in less than a year, the bolts just work their way out so quick because of the small amount or TQ they are fastened with in the first place. I used OEM seals and everything.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thank you for coming up with this post. I too started experiencing a burning smell in the runner. I did the valve cover gaskets not so long ago (approx. 4000 miles). After reading your post, I went to check the gaskets with a help of a mirror. I then saw an oil leak near the rear most bolt on the driver's side valve cover. I tighten the bolt again. Hope this fixes the issue.

I bought the valve cover gasket kit (felpro) from a forum member. Guess these are no good.

I've only used Felpro gaskets, the Toyota ones are way too expensive for formed pieces of rubber!

Might just be some loose bolts. Sometimes we get so paranoid about cracking the valve cover that we don't tighten the bolts enough. I know I did that a few times, but you learn from mistakes. Hopefully it's as simple as that.

This! All gasket will leak if they are too loose. You just have to know the feel. Tight enough that it doesn't allow oil but not so tight that you split the gasket in two or crack the VC. But to be honest that has to be stupid tight to do that.

Also, OP, if you want to save some time, spray your engine down with a degreaser (can buy from auto parts or use a cleaner like Meen Green) at a car wash and clean it up real good. Then you'll be able to spot oil leaks a whole lot easier. If you are smelling it it's leaking onto the exhaust manifold and burning off.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Also, OP, if you want to save some time, spray your engine down with a degreaser (can buy from auto parts or use a cleaner like Meen Green) at a car wash and clean it up real good. Then you'll be able to spot oil leaks a whole lot easier. If you are smelling it it's leaking onto the exhaust manifold and burning off.

THIS

OP, your going to have a real tough time finding a leak on an already greased up, dirty engine. Once you get is cleaned up, what I like to do is spray down the suspect areas with some BrakeKleen. Leaves a white, very dry residue which will immediately show any leaks.

 

[Scramble]

My valve cover was leaking because of bolts that loosened up over time but it never had a burning smell. Used a degreaser to clean the area, hand tightened them 1 full turn & the leak is gone.

 

[csp]

As others have said clean it first!

 

[Ol'Blue]

Here is what I'm going ro tell you.

First go and buy about 4 cans of break clean and clean the shit out of it and do it good.

Next- go to O'R and get a bottle of oil trace dye. Dump it in the oil. Drive it for one day normal amount and that's it. Next you will need a black light and yellow glasses the kits 11 bucks at OR. Look for the leak with the black light. It will be neon green under the black light. That will tell you were the sears are starting from then go from there. You will know what to fix.... best of luck and keep us posted.

Brian

Also use permatex ultra grey when putting on the valve cover gaskets and to reseal them. It works really good and it holds up to torque really well.....

 

[atalarico]

Thanks for the help all! I'm going to attack this tomorrow or over the weekend. FWIW, I actually did clean the VC's when I did the job last year since they were caked in burnt oil. Yes, I can see some oil buildup up near the front near the oil fill cap, but that's the only place I really can see it.

Once I get the intake manifolds off, I should be able to check the bolts again. Just to be clear when I'm asking this; I can remove the VC bolts, clean oil from them, apply blue loctite, and torque them without having to scrape old FIPG and apply new FIPG?

 

[T4R2014]

Thanks for the help all! I'm going to attack this tomorrow or over the weekend. FWIW, I actually did clean the VC's when I did the job last year since they were caked in burnt oil. Yes, I can see some oil buildup up near the front near the oil fill cap, but that's the only place I really can see it.

Once I get the intake manifolds off, I should be able to check the bolts again. Just to be clear when I'm asking this; I can remove the VC bolts, clean oil from them, apply blue loctite, and torque them without having to scrape old FIPG and apply new FIPG?

Assuming you're not going to lift off the valve cover, I don't see an issue.

 

[atalarico]

Assuming you're not going to lift off the valve cover, I don't see an issue.

Not intentionally, but I've been known to be that .01% who will have an outlier experience. I wouldn't but it out of the realm of possibilities for a non-migratory swallow to fly into my hood and perch itself on a VC without bolts on just enough to make it fall off.

I'll keep a fake owl nearby when I'm doing this over the weekend so as to scare off any troublesome aviary invaders.

 

[mtbtim]

I didn't read that you resealed the 4 half moons on the heads. if you didn't, your leak could very well be coming from one of them.