Buying a used 2004 SR5 v8, what to look for?

[drallan]

I'm going to take a look at a 2004 SR5 4wd v8 on Sat. Is there a thread that lists all the specifics to look out for when buying used? I also have a 99 T4R and was hoping to find a thread like the 3rd gen forum has on buying used. Something that lists things like the pink milk shake, gas gauge, frame rust, etc.

I have read through the stickies and searched the forum, but haven't found anything that lists specifics or questions to ask when buying used. Please direct me if I missed it.

I have pulled the Carfax, checked out the Toyota Owners records and decoded the VIN. It has 175,000 on the ODO but the service record shows a TB and WP change @ 115,000 in 2007 by the dealer. It looks to be a 2 owner car (I'll be the 3rd). The 1st owner appears to have had it dealer maintained w/ regularly scheduled maintenance up until Mar 2007 when it was sold back/ traded in to the dealer @115,000, which is when the WP&TB were done along with all the fluids. Diff, PS, Brakes, Coolant, Oil, Tranny, Belts.

It sat on the lot for 6-7 months where the current owner bought it in Jan 2008 and has since put 60k on the ODO. Other than what looks like a minor fender bender in 2006 where it had some fender, bumper, & grill work done at the dealership. Carfax only showed "Vehicle Serviced" for the incident however the Toyota Owners records had more detail and the parts list for the repair.

I'm having the owner get it MD inspected, but is there anything else in particular I should look out for, or any questions to ask?

Again, if there is a thread already out there for this please direct me to it. I promise I did look!!!

Thanks,

 

[KingPrat]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...modifications-write-ups-quick-links-faqs.html

Third sticky from the top!

Also, sounds like a lot of miles. Heard there's one posted on here with 50% of the miles for sale.... :thumb3:

 

[drallan]

Thanks. I did read the 3rd sticky but that just contains general information about the 4th gen. In the 3rd gen section there is thread called "3rd gen buyers guide" that literally covers specific issues to look out for when buying a used t4r. I have been able to find that for a 4th while the sticky has a lot of useful info, but I'm looking for know problems to look out for that might not be readily apparent unless you know about them.

I agree 175 is a lot of miles unfortunately in my financial situation its between a 3rd gen w less miles or a 4th with more. If you know of a 4th for $7500 close to MD with less miles please let me know. I've been trolling craigslist, auto trader and the classifieds for a while.

 

[awdjunkies]

Sounds like you did your homework already which is definitely a plus, and I do agree that 3rd gen sticky helped me out a lot back then as well :bigok:

As for what to look for? cracked headers/manifolds, check transfer case to make sure its working properly and/or for leaks, alignment/suspension bits.. You know, the usual...

PS: Since you already know Toyota/4runner in general 175k miles is not a lot of miles... (I know that's subjective as they could be easy miles or Rough terrain splish splash everywhere, but as long as the maintenance history is there? you should be okay). Even with doubts, or OCD(YMMV) you can always have your trusty mechanic/shop look it over.


PPS: Here is a quick thread http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/37419-highest-mileage-4th-gen.html to read if and when you have time or are bored to let you know how many 4th gen owners have upwards of 300k+ miles...


From that thread^ http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/37419-highest-mileage-4th-gen-42.html#post1869852 < Yes, that's the V8 4.7l Engine :yo:

 

[NuclearN8]

Since it appears to be a well serviced V8 from what you describe, the heavy hitters I'd be concerned about or worth checking are cracked manifold(s)... usually ticks on cold start-up then goes away once warmed up (this isn't a show stopper but the v8's have this condition about as much as the v6 blow a head gasket I think... not to common, but it happens). Not sure a better way to check for it than sound.

Other than that, sounds like it's been a northern vehicle so have a good look at the frame. Surface rust is expected but it shouldn't be rotted through anyway. Don't let surface rust scare you away, in fact I'd be weary if it didn't have some... expect some, but also expect to still see some paint on the frame. Fluid film is a great preventive measure and POR-15 can correct just about any surface rust. If it's rotted through, it's rotted through and not fixable without cutting out sections and welding in new steel... mucho expensive if you don't know someone...

how's the battery? hopefully new(er)ish.

make sure it goes into 4Lo actuators work properly

Having a fresh inspection by the selling dealer means absolutely nothing in my opinion so look it over yourself first. Especially the tires as this is the most expensive wear item on these trucks a full 5 tire set can run up to 1500 (or as little as 750) installed.

Lastly, here's a good year by year model history summary I refer to quite a bit...
Toyota 4Runner History 2003

Good luck.

 

[drallan]

Thank you guys. This is the kind of information I was hoping for. I will definitely look out for the cracked manifold. Unfortunately we are meeting in a neutral public location so getting a cold listen will be difficult. Is it something a spritz of carb cleaner in the intake will expose? I've used that method to detect exhaust leaks in the past. A few quick sprays and keep an eye out for smoke coming from unexpected places. I will give it a good look over for rust. From what I have read it doesn't sound like frame rust is as big of an issue as it is for the 3rd gens.

What are the indicators for the various 4wd modes? Do I just look for dash lights? This will be my 1st 4wd vehicle that doesn't have a physical shifter to yank on. are there any tricks for putting it into lo? I've had trucks where you have to shift the tranny into neutral while creeping at 1-2 mph as you shift into lo.

If it were any other vehicle 175 would scare me off, but I know how reliable these trucks are. I've got a 99 w 175 that runs flawlessly and my mom had a 2000 w about 200 that was ran like new until a deer got in her way. Now she has a 2007 v6 with almost 200 (she does a lot of driving) that hasn't skipped a beat. My goal is to get 5years out of this one, then we can start looking for a used 5th gen.

The MD inspection is pretty thorough and while not a catch all, should catch a lot of stuff and I'm confident it will be from a 3rd party and not a "friend" who will make sure it passes. I will definitely check out the tires and am well aware of how much they can cost. Anything else? When I bought my 3rd gen the gas gauge bit me in the butt. I thought the guy was nice and just left it with a full tank of gas, until the long drive home where I watched it drop to a 1/4 over a 5min span. Any other interior parts that are prone to fail? The 3rds have a finicky digital A/C Controler, temperamental door locks and the infamous clock spring.

Thanks for the info. Hopefully by this time tomorrow I will have two forums to troll instead of just one!

 

[NuclearN8]

Thank you guys. This is the kind of information I was hoping for. I will definitely look out for the cracked manifold. Unfortunately we are meeting in a neutral public location so getting a cold listen will be difficult. Is it something a spritz of carb cleaner in the intake will expose? I've used that method to detect exhaust leaks in the past. A few quick sprays and keep an eye out for smoke coming from unexpected places. I will give it a good look over for rust. From what I have read it doesn't sound like frame rust is as big of an issue as it is for the 3rd gens.

What are the indicators for the various 4wd modes? Do I just look for dash lights? This will be my 1st 4wd vehicle that doesn't have a physical shifter to yank on. are there any tricks for putting it into lo? I've had trucks where you have to shift the tranny into neutral while creeping at 1-2 mph as you shift into lo.

If it were any other vehicle 175 would scare me off, but I know how reliable these trucks are. I've got a 99 w 175 that runs flawlessly and my mom had a 2000 w about 200 that was ran like new until a deer got in her way. Now she has a 2007 v6 with almost 200 (she does a lot of driving) that hasn't skipped a beat. My goal is to get 5years out of this one, then we can start looking for a used 5th gen.

The MD inspection is pretty thorough and while not a catch all, should catch a lot of stuff and I'm confident it will be from a 3rd party and not a "friend" who will make sure it passes. I will definitely check out the tires and am well aware of how much they can cost. Anything else? When I bought my 3rd gen the gas gauge bit me in the butt. I thought the guy was nice and just left it with a full tank of gas, until the long drive home where I watched it drop to a 1/4 over a 5min span. Any other interior parts that are prone to fail? The 3rds have a finicky digital A/C Controler, temperamental door locks and the infamous clock spring.

Thanks for the info. Hopefully by this time tomorrow I will have two forums to troll instead of just one!

to shift in to 4Lo the instructions should be on the visor. If not, you need to be in neutral with your foot on the brake to go in to and out of 4Lo... when you shift into drive and let your foot off the brake you'll know if you're in 4Lo just by the gearing alone... if you're not it'll feel normal and you'll have constant beeping noise and lights flashing.
make sure the center diff lock works as well, this can be done on the fly under 5-10 mph... if the surface isn't wet or snowy or icy.. don't turn the wheel too much and try to keep it in a straight line...

this will test both your actuators.. if they don't work they're 2000-3000 a piece to replace and given your budget, I would pass the vehicle unless you have no intention of using either for offroad purposes.

check your cv boots obviously for signs of leakage (I'm sure this was on your list).

their are tranny hard lines right at the bottom of the radiator that often rust through in northern climates on older 4Runners... you usually need to take off the front skid (which you probably can't do on inspection) but you can have a decent look at this area with a good flashlight from the hood.. just pop it and point the flashlight straight down kinda on the driver side... usuall the bracket rusts first then it starts to eat the hard trany lines coming from the built in radiator cooler... this isn't too expensive a fix if rusted but worth a look if the hood is open anyway. I put fluid film on this are on mine and my wife 4Runners and it does the trick to prevent rust in this highly susceptible area...

I'd get it up to highway speeds and check for vibrations in the steering wheel... at that mileage and age you're likely gonna be due for wheel bearings/ LCA/UCA bushings, and sway bar bushing replacement in the near future to help maintain driveability...common maintenance items with threads on this forum to DIY after purchase, if you're mechanically inclined you'll just need to pay for the bushings which isn't too pricy at all.

another common item is stuck calipers in northern climates.. not sure how to test for this as I've never had one but I imagine the easiest way would be to jack each wheel up and see if it spins freely. someone else may be able to chime in as knock on wood I've never experienced a stuck caliper. my guess is it'd give you a pull in the steering as well..

a cracked dashboard is now covered by toyota for replacement so don't sweat that.
if hvac lights are out they're an easy fix/ swap replacement.. no worries there.
make sure the jack is there (open hatch, left side storage by the left rear taillight is where it's kept)

it's cold out so take a piece of cardboard you can lay on the ground to have a peak underneath...

again good luck

 

[Dylan]

Having gone through the same process a little over a year ago, everything mentioned pretty much covers it.

 

[Broadwinged]

I'm actually in almost the exact same position as the OP and this thread has been really helpful.

Looking at a 2004 Sport v8 model. Hoping to get the seller (who is 4 hours drive from me) to take it to the mechanic trusted by a friend of mine for an inspection...will provide this list.

I'll be interested to know from the OP, drallen, if he ended up buying!

 

[NuclearN8]

[MENTION=96147]drallan[/MENTION] ,apparently we're all waiting around to hear how it went....

 

[drallan]

I'm now the proud owner of 2 4runners. One 99 and now a 2004. Everything went great. Seller was second owner who bought it at a dealership certified pre-opened. Only real issue was a torn inner cv boot on passenger side. No clicking or play, the boot just separated by the small end clamp. A few nit picky things that are expected from a 10 y/o truck. Finicky radio knobs, dim backlight on one side of clock display and cargo cover doesn't fully retract.

4 lo seemed to work as expected. Tires are 6 mo old, general grabbers w full maintaince package, lifetime balance and rotation, road hazard, etc. 2 keys w fobs. No rust of concern. Interior was in great shape. All windows, locks, etc work.

Due to cv boot I could only get temp tags. I'll probably just throw one of those quick boot repair kits to get it through inspection and fully registered, then tackle it for real on the next warmer weekend (in the 20-30s today). Overall I'm very happy, more importantly so is the wife. I know she has a few miles, but I have all service records and am confident it was well taken care of.

As a bonus, I now get the 99 as my DD and can finally retire my 95 jeep Cherokee. Time to start looking for all the fun toys/mods I've been wanting to do but couldn't as it was my wife's car.

Thanks for all the help, now I get to troll 2 forums.