Buying advice checklist: Peace of mind and clarification help.

[Precision]

Alright folks I'm currently driving a 2002 Toyota Corolla LE 5 Speed with 155k and I'm tired of it. I will be looking to replace it before Christmas for sure with a 3rd Gen. After watching the Top Gear episode when they take their Land Cruiser, Range Rover Classic and Sidekick through the amazon I was hooked again and figured the 3rd Gen would be just the ticket. Now I need some help.

1. Yes I have read the stickies but still have questions to clarify because I'm going to be dealing with craigslisters which probably consist of guys hiding issues, soccer moms selling their 4runners because after 10 years they decided to get a Hybrid or someone who thinks that telling me "runs and drives great" is enough for me to say "ok I'll take it"...

-My biggest concern is obviously whether or not the timing belt and water pump have been done, with proof. My question is:

Is there any way you can tell that the timing belt or water pump have been done without a receipt/record of it? Or the sticker somewhere? For example if someone hasn't owned it long but gives me the "the last owner changed it, he said so" thing.

-Pink milkshake.

What do I need to know from the owner that will give me the green light that the issue isn't going to occur, or the red light saying uh oh walk away?

If the radiator has been replaced is that a good thing or a bad thing?

Are there any concrete diagnosis processes that can be done easily to tell me that I should go for a particular 3rd gen or run?

I don't have a garage anymore and I live in New England. This is my one and only daily driver and I work over 30 miles away. I just can't risk catastrophic issues like transmission failure so please help

-What rust is ok and what rust is not ok? (No rust is ok but what is a big deal and what isn't?)

I'm simply wondering the specific trouble spots and how to spot bad rust and just your typical "oh that's no big deal" rust on the undercarriage etc.

-How many miles are too many miles? Keep in mind I have no problem paying for a good vehicle but I'm probably not going to buy from the forum or an enthusiast because well? I don't want to pay $7,000 for a 1999 with 240k on it because someone thinks that Toyota is more reliable than the sun coming up. I want to buy from a plain jane person who believes in regular maintenance and doesn't care about off road this or getting top dollar that hence the Craigslist search

What are some other red flags and green lights I should know about?

 

[afg10000]

No such thing as good rust but you need to check specifically on the inside of the rear passenger frame next to the muffler (just in front of the upper control arm mounting weld). Very common spot for bad frame rot. Rest of the frame of course and rear diff housing also common rust spot. Hard to say with the TB, if it's been done at a dealer or reputable place, they'll be a sticker on top of the casing stating the miles when it was replaced. I would think if it has a new rad that something has happened. Most normal folks that just drive vehicles until something happens aren't going to be replacing radiators (or anything else) for no reason. A few other things I always check is all VIN#'s match all throughout the truck, condition of the spare tire and rim, bottle jack and components are in place. I'd also run though the gears and transfer case, diff lock/center diff lock to ensure everything is working properly. You can also check the boots on the CV's, steering rack and BJ's for leaks or tears. As far as miles vs. cost/maintenance/risk it's going to be subjective to your region and willingness to pay. I just bought an '01 Limited w/158k for $7000 here in Omaha. Might be different elsewhere. Hopefully you can pull a carfax and better yet have service records with purchase. Good luck -

 

[JohnsD90]

Alright folks I'm currently driving a 2002 Toyota Corolla LE 5 Speed with 155k and I'm tired of it. I will be looking to replace it before Christmas for sure with a 3rd Gen. After watching the Top Gear episode when they take their Land Cruiser, Range Rover Classic and Sidekick through the amazon I was hooked again and figured the 3rd Gen would be just the ticket. Now I need some help.

1. Yes I have read the stickies but still have questions to clarify because I'm going to be dealing with craigslisters which probably consist of guys hiding issues, soccer moms selling their 4runners because after 10 years they decided to get a Hybrid or someone who thinks that telling me "runs and drives great" is enough for me to say "ok I'll take it"...

-My biggest concern is obviously whether or not the timing belt and water pump have been done, with proof. My question is:

Is there any way you can tell that the timing belt or water pump have been done without a receipt/record of it? Or the sticker somewhere? For example if someone hasn't owned it long but gives me the "the last owner changed it, he said so" thing.

-Pink milkshake.

What do I need to know from the owner that will give me the green light that the issue isn't going to occur, or the red light saying uh oh walk away?

If the radiator has been replaced is that a good thing or a bad thing?

Are there any concrete diagnosis processes that can be done easily to tell me that I should go for a particular 3rd gen or run?

I don't have a garage anymore and I live in New England. This is my one and only daily driver and I work over 30 miles away. I just can't risk catastrophic issues like transmission failure so please help

-What rust is ok and what rust is not ok? (No rust is ok but what is a big deal and what isn't?)

I'm simply wondering the specific trouble spots and how to spot bad rust and just your typical "oh that's no big deal" rust on the undercarriage etc.

-How many miles are too many miles? Keep in mind I have no problem paying for a good vehicle but I'm probably not going to buy from the forum or an enthusiast because well? I don't want to pay $7,000 for a 1999 with 240k on it because someone thinks that Toyota is more reliable than the sun coming up. I want to buy from a plain jane person who believes in regular maintenance and doesn't care about off road this or getting top dollar that hence the Craigslist search

What are some other red flags and green lights I should know about?

You are buying an 11-17 year old vehicle that lived its whole life in the rust belt, you are kind of screwed there. For the T-belt they usually have a sticker on the radatior or somewhere around there stating the date and milage when it was changed. I would make sure there is no rust holes, and take a screwdriver and a hammer to bottom and sides of the frame rails in various spots. If you are very concerned about mechanical problems, start looking into getting a local mechanic to look over the vehicle with you. Every used vehicle could potentially break something out of the blue, it is just a way of life, while not likely you have to understand it is possible. I would try to buy one outside of any state that gets regular snow in the winter time, that will alleviate all concerns about rust. For at rust free 99k with 240k, $7k is about right if it is mechanically sound and in good shape. The reason you can buy a 4Runner in the northeast for $2500 is because they are rustboxes and are priced accordingly.

 

[kball]

timing belt- if there's no sticker or proof of maintenance, assume it hasn't been.

Pink milky- The only time seeing a replaced radiator would be good is if they specifically tell you they did it as preventative maintenance or to avoid the pink milkshake, basically.. never. So if it's replaced, beware.