If you plan to post to Classified forums, you must follow these rules, or your post will be deleted.
You won't need bolt cutters. The metal strapping can be cut with tin snips or even with side cutters (although it may take a bit more effort!). I would imagine if you had them shipped to a freight dock, someone would be properly outfitted to assist.
Yours are built and they will be sent to powder coat next week. Hopefully by the end of next week we will be shipping a few sets out.
Sorry we have not even had the opportunity to get a KDSS equipped model into the shop to create complete install instructions for that side. Yes you need to loosen all of the KDSS pump brackets and line brackets as much as possible so the slider frame plate can slide up between the frame and the KDSS parts. As for the original KDSS skid plate that covers the lines, it should bolt right back into its original location. Just bend the tab flat and it will work fine that way.
The skid will bolt right back into its original location. Just flatten the tab with a couple taps of a hammer.
There really arent any changes except for the plates that now wrap around the bottom of the frame. Those extra plates are pretty self explanatory, they just bolt into the frame where the existing holes are. You will need to use a 5/16" drill bit to drill the two holes on the passenger side forward cross member plate. Then you can thread the two 3/8" thread cutting screws into the frame. There are pics of this a few pages back that I posted a couple weeks ago. I would not recommend using loc-tite on the bolts that thread into the frame. Clean the holes out first before installation and use a very small amount of anti-seize. Once the bolts are tightened down they should never come lose.
There may be a couple bolt holes that just dont line up sometimes, but it shouldnt be a problem. That is why we use so many of the threaded holes in the frame for mounting, that way if one or two just dont sit right, you will have plenty of others to hold it in place. The KDSS sliders are no doubt the hardest to install since so much wiggling and positioning is involved to work around the components. The lines are a close fit to the slider parts, but there should be no worries. Since everything is solid mounted to the frame, there will be very minimal movement or vibration that could cause any problems with the KDSS lines.I basically followed the stuff I found in the thread above and was mostly successful --- it was a really good guide, even without pictures. I was bashful about loosening the top rear/aft bolt on the KDSS assembly, but ended up loosening it a bit more to allow the plate of the slider to fit. I also didn't drop the whole fuel tank skid, just the 4ish bolts on the drivers side; this gave me enough clearance to get the slider in place.
There was a bolt hole or two on either side that I just couldn't get the sliders to line up with. Lots of loosening, trying to jiggle the slider, swearing, etc.
For the forward KDSS skid, I ended up bending out the larger tab that goes into the cross member (the smaller one that notches in to the rear fit just fine) but both bolts seated well; I got tired of saying magic incantations trying to get the stupid tab to fit and declared defeat :redface: ...that said, I'm not super worried about it and I may end up cutting the tab off --- I AM slightly worried about clearance between the rear of the driver side slider and the KDSS lines, they clear but not by much. I plan on just keeping an eye on things for a week or two and adjusting as needed.
I agree on using the anti-seize, thats what i would recommend for the install also.
Awesome! glad everything showed up in good shape!
