Calipers seized?

[Tresvn]

I know I am in need of brakes and will be popping the wheels off today to check it out before I go get the parts. Is there a way to tell visually if the calipers are seized or beginning to seize? I assume the pistons will be harder to compress, should I find rust or corrosion on the piston too?

If the calipers do need replacing I will probably go with the bigger rotors and calipers.

 

[Sungod]

Save yourself the hassle and just replace them. Buy some with a lifetime warranty and replace them when you replace the pads.

 

[Benjamn88]

yeah, chances are if they haven't already been replaced by a previous owner then they either need replaced now or they will need replaced soon. the previous owner of my runner had just replaced both front calipers on my runner right before I bought it @ 97,000 miles. its also a good idea to do it now because if they seem to look alright and you just replace the pads and turn the rotors the calipers could sieze up and then ruin your new pads and pit ur fresh clean rotor surface. then youll be in the hole for a new brake job again

 

[Tresvn]

They were replaced at 95,000 mi; calipers, rotors and pads. I am at 127,000 mi now. I don't mind spending the $ if needed but would rather not if the calipers have some life left in them.

 

[Dexter Morgan]

On my Tundra, the front right wheel was getting excessive brake dust after 4 or 5 days. The wheel was turning black actually.

 

[HokieRunner]

You'll have to remove the calipers and try to compress the pistons to test for seized pistons if it isn't overly obvious (hot brakes/excessive brakedust/wheel spin resistance/very uneven wear).

First time I replaced mine I couldn't tell until I had the calipers off. Second time it was very obvious due to pulling, etc. I'll second Sungods advice...just get lifetime warranty. Keep your receipt because odds are you'll be replacing again. I went with NAPA calipers.

 

[Sungod]

As Ben said, they may look good now, but could hang up at any time. That was what just happened to me. Mine were fine when I replaced the pads, but 10k later one froze and ruined $80 worth of pads.

As for going with the larger rotors, I wouldn't waste the money.

 

[Gatafly]

You dont have to remove the caliper to check, just the tire. With the tire off look at the open area on the top of the caliper where you will see the rotor and pads. You can use a large straight screwdriver and put it between the rotor and metal edge of the pad to pry it. If it will pry apart they are good. You have to do it at each end of the pad and for both inner and outer pads since there are 4 pistons per caliper.