Can I put tow hooks where the trailer hitch bolts into the frame?

Pyral

Member
The two m12 bolt holes on both frame rails that is normally used to attach the trailer hitch, can I use them to hold recovery points instead?

I know they hold the trailer hitch so they can take some force, but when you pull on the trailer hitch the force is distributed between the frame rails evenly, which might not always be the case with tow hooks.
 
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I think the fronts are not much more than that. I would think that in a straight back pull they would do fine, but anything else I wonder if you would need something to put between the frame rails to keep them from bending in or out if pulling at a angle or if the bumper would do that.
All of mine have always had hitches and stock rear bumpers..

good question
 
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Those are the factory tie-down points (not tow points) - if the 4Runner is not equipped with a hitch - the same setup as the non-hook side in the front.

Whether you feel comfortable using that as a recovery point is up to you...

-Charlie
 
I did some more research, the closest relative, the J90 prado, came with rear tow hooks (they only put 1 on) and coincidently the rear frame has a cross member at the ends. It's possible this is crash protection for the has tank, but it equally likely it's there to strengthen it for this reason.
1997_toyota_land-cruiser-prado_IMG_8855-90114-scaled.jpeg
J90 Rear frame

6461c19b27d69bfe93b8b55d631ddf3f.jpg
4runner rear frame (tow hitch equipped)

The front can have tow hooks on both sides, the left side only has a tie down because they wanted to cut cost. I think you could mount ones on the rear, but I wouldn't put major force on them without reinforcement. The spare tire makes reinforcement difficult.

Also fun fact, the tow hooks are asymmetric, the right hook bends outwards to the right. So if you try taking one off another 4runner to use on the left side, you'll be thwarted because thanks to this bend the hook hits the skid plate before the bolt holes align. Toyota could have made them straight and used the same part for both sides, but nooo.
 
Yep, I still have the passenger side asymmetrical hook but I discarded the shipping tie-downs wherever I found them. Gotta keep racing weight down.....
 
My hitch straight bar receiver hung under, I'd feel good having anchor on corners.
96Red had Y shape hitch, pulled triple axle loads of stuff never lost its shape.
Both class III 5k, 4Rnrs will be moving before hitch bends or breaks kind of my thinking.
Dunno.
 
In my spare time I am a qualified 4wd trainer. My boss and good friend manufactures recovery points, many of which are on FJ Cruisers on this forum. Here is our take on recovery points.

There is no such thing as a rated recovery point attached to a vehicle.
The recovery point may be rated on the shelf in the shop but as soon as it is attached to the vehicle it defaults to the rating of the part it is attached to (The Chassis) Your chassis on your vehicle Is not rated and has never been rated for a straight line recovery pull.
For example if you take your 5000kg rated recovery point and attach it to your bonnet, do you still think you can put a 5000kg load through it, of course not.
Another example, A crane is a rated piece of machinery. The tyres, suspension, lifting motors, right through to the hook at the end of the wire string is rated, everything in the system is rated.
We have to make an informed decision as what and how to do a recovery. In essence we have to become an engineer for a few moments. A 10mm plate bolted using bolts of appropriate size and strength bolted to a 3mm chassis. (should i use 1 side or use a bridle to utilise both chassis rails?) Yes always use a bridle.
No towbar manufacturer has ever tested there towing system for a recovery scenario. Toyota rates the FJ at 2250kg towing. Pulling a loaded 200 series cruiser out of a bog may be upwards of 5-6000kg. My Hayman Reece towing system and my chassis rails are not rated for those loads. But the engineer in me sees that my towing system is attached to both rear chassis rails using 6 high tensile bolts. The chassis is also directly behind the towing point. So i am happy enough to use this system for a recovery.
 
Happened to be out by my rig and took a couple shots of my factory hook....
 

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If you have the hitch, keep it. Add a solid (steel ot aluminum) insert plug that can have steel D-ring or hook on it for extraction. Some even designed for soft shackles. Some are drilled with 2 holes so the insert plug can be turned to let a D-ring shackle flex up/down or L/R. Use a quality hitch pin, you can store it off vehicle till needed.
 
I don't have the hitch, if I did I wouldn't be asking. The bolts are pretty close to the crossmember that holds the spare tire, so it's not as bad as it looks
 

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