Documenting My Overheating, Head Gasket, Cracked Head Problem on 5VZ-FE DIY

Sense-A

Junior Member
1999 Toyota 4runner Sr5 4x4 5VZ-FE 266,000 miles

Over the course of about two years I was burning a little bit of coolant and could smell it out the exhaust, especially out of the exhaust during cold start. I got by for two years topping off the Coolant with the red asian coolant from Walmart. Every two weeks I poured about 10-15 fluid ounces in there.

Performance suffered. Acceleration was putt putt sometimes. The spark plug in cylinder 4 looked like there wasn't much left of it. One day the spark plug even shot out of the engine during start-up, which means there must have been a build up of fuel in there trying to compensate for bad combustion or a disgusting mix of coolant, oil, and fuel.

It's amazing My toyota kept running. I was abusing it. It was leaking oil, burning coolant, the catalytic converter is rigged on to cut pipe from where a thief had stolen the last one.

One day two weeks ago it overheated even though i was just driving slow down 25mph and 35mph roads. This time i couldn't solve it by just topping off the coolant. In fact, the coolant was overflowing into the excess reservoir this time.

When my truck overheats, i pull over and shut it down. I don't push it. When it gets into the red i believe that if you shut it down immediately you can mostly avoid damage to the cylinder heads or gasket. I think it is prolonged overheating or continuing to drive the vehicle once it is in the red that will blow it up. That's my theory at least and what i did. If the temp gauge got into red i turned off the road and shut everything down. Also blow the heat hot to help exhaust all the heat and get the temp back down. And with this method the engine would soon cool off. Then i can drive another mile or two and repeat. I think it took me 3 hours to get just 10 miles by inching my way back home.

Now i know already to pay a mechanic to pull the cylinder heads is at least $3K plus they'll try to sell me on a long list of other things and i'll get a $5K bill. So i decided to take off work for a week and DIY.

I followed the videos of both Timmy The Toolman and Worse Than Chiggers. Both have excellent head gasket replacement video tutorials and they are so good it's why I appreciate the internet.

It took my a week to tear off both cylinder heads, the timing belt, the water pump and get it to a bench.

I found a crack in cylinder 4 that runs below the valve seat. this cylinder was caked in sludge that crept its way up into the intake and lower plenum. Thick nasty sludge.


cylinder five has a micro-crack between the intake and exhaust valves. It looks very small and shallow. I am torn whether or not to replace it. Toyota guys say yeah replace it, it will only get worse. Auto mechanics who deal with hot rods and other cars laugh and say those are normal and if you don't have cracks you're not even breaking it in yet and not to worry if the crack isn't below the valve seat..

I am in a rush to go now but i will update and maybe post pictures later.

I first tried to get refurbished rebuilt cylinder heads but the machine shop was picky and the ones i was giving in as core exchange and didn't want them and wanted to charge me extra core fee instead. So instead I ordered some cheap imported chinese cylinder heads for about $450 each that dont even require a core exchange, so this might get interesting. Will they be junk or will they bolt on and give an old grumpy 4runner another leg in life? Stay tuned...

So far I've spent $650 on tools, wrenches, pulley pullers, torque wrenches, angle head wrenches, ratcheting box wrenches, etc. And I've spent $1,265 so far on parts which includes the chinese import cylinder heads that are shipping from CA after probably coming from China.

Also i cheaped out on the gaskets and water pump and timing belt. After market. Will i regret this or will i get everything up and running? Place your bets.

Also if you calculate my lost income from me working on it i would cost out my labor at about $800-900 so far.

I will try to return and post pictures later and update you when my Chinese cylinder heads go on. Also sorry to my Japanese friends for being so cheap because i really do respect Japanese engineering and their audio products too. Always was good stuff. I like japanese motorcycles and dirtbikes too.

The thing is that most people wouldn't even try to fix this truck because so many other things are wrong with it. The actuator on passenger side front door doesn't work. The clock doesn't work. The front seat is torn. It is high mileage. I haul trailers with it. I've replaced two wheel bearings so far and recently a rear axle seal. The exhaust leaks because of a stolen catalytic converter that i rigged back together. But if i can get the engine running again then i will be remotivated to fix the other smaller nagging problems.
 
Register to hide this ad
Sorry for the late update

It took me about one week to take it all apart and one week to get everything back together. If I had indoor air conditioned weather proof garage then I could have shaved off 2-3 days.

I got everything running. :guitar2: The cheap new cylinder heads I bought off eBay for about $450 each fit perfect. Everything lined up perfect. Every bolt screwed in easy.

Few things

The clutch fan bolts stripped. I think i already mentioned that.

In total i spent about $2050. About $1400 for parts and $650 for tools. I got some new exhaust nuts from advanceAuto. I rattle can sprayed the valve covers.

I chose to replace the pcv valve

Things I messed up:

On the driver side i put the valve cover back on and then remembered i left the 12mm bolt in the camshaft. So i wasted about 30-60 minutes even though Tim reminds viewers to remove those damn bolts when camshafts are torqued down properly. Trying to start the engine or spin it with these bolts in place could probably mess something up really bad.

I also didn't put much effort or time into shimming the valves perfectly. I left the shims in there that came with the new cylinder heads. I was unprepared to adjust the valves perfectly to spec. Will i pay the price for this? What are symptoms of poorly adjusted valves?

I am not certain i put a new washer on the passenger side fuel rail. I will just have to monitor it or crawl in there one day and take it apart and check. I still have access to it without pulling much off to get to it. i think i torqued it correctly.

I forgot to put a hose clip back in proper place on the throttle body and it spit off and sprayed coolant everywhere. Oops! Had to pull over, reattach it and buy more coolant. Dumb me. Put all those hose clips back where they go!

And one of the dumbest mistakes was i had to replace my radiator because, while suffering the head gasket/cylinder leak in its climax i poured that dumb stop leak garbage in there and clogged my radiator up in the process. At least i could see junk still in there even after trying to flush it. So $200 for a new radiator, which i did not include in the totals above. No matter how many warnings i've had to not put magical snake oil stop leaks in my engines i was either going to pay $200 for a tow or hope this magic snake oil works and possibly need a $200 radiator instead.

I have lots of pictures i will upload.

I am not certain i have the throttle/acceleration adjusted correctly. I also think i have an exhaust leak still somewhere near where the catalytic converter is. So i have to take care of some exhaust leaks and i think i want to learn how to take compression tests and just closely monitor everything. I have an OBDii scanner that i briefly plugged in but didn't quite master yet.

Now i will argue that buying new cylinder heads delivered to your door is even better than messing around with trying to machine and refurb your old ones. In fact, i have leftover camshafts and valves in case anyone is interested.

I'm not sure what to do with the old cylinder heads. I wonder what scrap value is for them?

I have other things to fix. The door actuator on passenger side doesn't seem to work. The cruise control didn't seem to want to set the speed or respond when i set it. The hydraulic arms that hold up rear trunk door are beginning to fail.

Next issues i address will likely be fix exhaust leak.

I do eventually want to lift it about 2" or at least lift the back since the factory springs are sagging
 
Cheap Parts i used

For Toyota 4Runner Tacoma Tundra T100 1995-2004 5VZFE Cylinder Head Right
US $449.99 Pardon Our Interruption...

Left Cylinder Head for Toyota 4Runner Tacoma Tundra T100 3.4L 1995-2004 V6 5VZFE US $399.99 https://www.ebay.com/itm/304599184897

net fan clutch nuts 20 Pieces M8 Flange Nuts,binifiMux M8-1.25mm Serrated Hex Flange Lock Nuts, DIN6923, 304 Stainless Steel,Plain Finish Amazon.com

uxcell PCV Valve Grommet Kit Exhaust Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve Fittings for Toyota Camry 1992-1994 for Toyota 4Runner 1996-2002 No.1220462010/9048018001
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHJSHL2J

box wrenches for getting off stripped fan clutch nuts 5-Piece Extra Long Box End Wrench Set, Metric 8mm-19mm, 6 Point Extended Bolt Extractor Wrench, CR-V Labor-Saving Aviation Spanner with EVA Foam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C14JX1DG

Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool Crankshaft Holder compatible with Toyota Tacoma 4Runner T100 Tundra Pickup $36 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NRGRYM1

Nakuuly Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump Compatible with 1995-2004 Toyota 4Runner Tacoma Tundra T100 3.4L V6 5VZFE DOHC Replaces # TKT-025 $92 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BCP219DW

Engine Replacement Head Gasket Set with Bolts for 1996-2002 Toyota 4runner for 1995-1998 Toyota T100 for 1995-2004 Toyota Tacoma for 2000-2004 Toyota Tundra $79.26 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQV4KVW1
 
Disassembly Pics:

Day 1
ojrHu02


SJqMjGI


OTNogs8


Eoykfsr


uHLB23Z


having trouble with image hoster. Will add working picture links soon.
 
You may want to flush your cooling system a few more times, the stop leak garbage is in your heater core too. And yes, you want to have properly adjusted valves. It'll run better and quieter.
 
Appreciate the documentation and notes on what to remember. I look forward to seeing some photos.

My wife's '98 SR5 sounds like its in a similar boat, I have had to add an inch or two to the coolant reservoir every couple of weeks for what feels like years now. Recently, we did have the heater hose valve blow out a few blocks from home and temp gage got into the red. I don't have any oily coolant or milkshake oil but we left it parked for three weeks and when we got back starting it up sounded only like what I could describe as rust in the cylinders or a cylinder. Not sure if that's realistic if there was a slight coolant leak into the head or what but I'm trying to determine how screwed I am. It seems to run fine now other than the trans issues I'm having and a rough idle at startup. I forsee myself having to replace the head gaskets in the near future but its our main mode of transportation and I'm afraid of getting into it and realizing I need XYZ also and having it sit for a prolonged period of time while I get parts.

Other than contaminated oil/coolant is there a surefire way to tell if there is a head gasket problem?
 
Sorry for the late update

It took me about one week to take it all apart and one week to get everything back together. If I had indoor air conditioned weather proof garage then I could have shaved off 2-3 days.

I got everything running. :guitar2: The cheap new cylinder heads I bought off eBay for about $450 each fit perfect. Everything lined up perfect. Every bolt screwed in easy.

Few things

The clutch fan bolts stripped. I think i already mentioned that.

In total i spent about $2050. About $1400 for parts and $650 for tools. I got some new exhaust nuts from advanceAuto. I rattle can sprayed the valve covers.

I chose to replace the pcv valve

Things I messed up:

On the driver side i put the valve cover back on and then remembered i left the 12mm bolt in the camshaft. So i wasted about 30-60 minutes even though Tim reminds viewers to remove those damn bolts when camshafts are torqued down properly. Trying to start the engine or spin it with these bolts in place could probably mess something up really bad.

I also didn't put much effort or time into shimming the valves perfectly. I left the shims in there that came with the new cylinder heads. I was unprepared to adjust the valves perfectly to spec. Will i pay the price for this? What are symptoms of poorly adjusted valves?

I am not certain i put a new washer on the passenger side fuel rail. I will just have to monitor it or crawl in there one day and take it apart and check. I still have access to it without pulling much off to get to it. i think i torqued it correctly.

I forgot to put a hose clip back in proper place on the throttle body and it spit off and sprayed coolant everywhere. Oops! Had to pull over, reattach it and buy more coolant. Dumb me. Put all those hose clips back where they go!

And one of the dumbest mistakes was i had to replace my radiator because, while suffering the head gasket/cylinder leak in its climax i poured that dumb stop leak garbage in there and clogged my radiator up in the process. At least i could see junk still in there even after trying to flush it. So $200 for a new radiator, which i did not include in the totals above. No matter how many warnings i've had to not put magical snake oil stop leaks in my engines i was either going to pay $200 for a tow or hope this magic snake oil works and possibly need a $200 radiator instead.

I have lots of pictures i will upload.

I am not certain i have the throttle/acceleration adjusted correctly. I also think i have an exhaust leak still somewhere near where the catalytic converter is. So i have to take care of some exhaust leaks and i think i want to learn how to take compression tests and just closely monitor everything. I have an OBDii scanner that i briefly plugged in but didn't quite master yet.

Now i will argue that buying new cylinder heads delivered to your door is even better than messing around with trying to machine and refurb your old ones. In fact, i have leftover camshafts and valves in case anyone is interested.

I'm not sure what to do with the old cylinder heads. I wonder what scrap value is for them?

I have other things to fix. The door actuator on passenger side doesn't seem to work. The cruise control didn't seem to want to set the speed or respond when i set it. The hydraulic arms that hold up rear trunk door are beginning to fail.

Next issues i address will likely be fix exhaust leak.

I do eventually want to lift it about 2" or at least lift the back since the factory springs are sagging

My older sister allowed a lousey mechanic to put radiator stop leak in her 1990 volvo turbo wagon supposidly to stop a leaking heater core. Failed to stop heater core leak and killed the turbo from plugged coolant. Deadly stuff those quick fix additives.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top