Can struts seize up?

[EvilMole]

I'm assuming they do. I've just always had them go the other way where the car bounces over everything.

Anyway, the 4runners ride has been getting progressively worse for a while now but now it just beats the crap out of me. Lately I've started to notice some squeaking and creaking coming from the driver side. I went to push down on this side and it barely budges. Cant really get a bounce. Any movement down produces a nice slow creak on the way back up. The other three corners appear to be fine.

The 4runner is a '96 with '99 springs. The fronts struts are Tokico GU3535s and have around 25k or less on them.

I need to tear into it but could this be a seized up strut? If so, what would be an adequate (read inexpensive) replacement to hold me over until I get the urge to lift it.

Thanks

 

[spartacus]

It will be better if you replace both fronts instead of just one corner.Just get bilstein 5100 and you can raise them up to 2.5 inch lift up front with ome springs for a lift . Kyb or bilstein hd4600 would also be good. Creaking up front could be a lot of things but make sure it's not the lower ball joints if they haven't been replaced in a while could lead to a failure.

 

[EvilMole]

It will be better if you replace both fronts instead of just one corner.Just get bilstein 5100 and you can raise them up to 2.5 inch lift up front with ome springs for a lift . Kyb or bilstein hd4600 would also be good. Creaking up front could be a lot of things but make sure it's not the lower ball joints if they haven't been replaced in a while could lead to a failure.

I do plan on replacing both up front. I'm assuming the Bilstein 5100s are adjustable? I don't plan on doing any lift at this time so I need to match my current ride height. Have Tokico shocks on the back that I don't plan on replacing yet.

Also, the creaking sounds like it's coming from the strut mount area. I don't believe its the LBJ. I was planning on replacing those next year.

 

[spartacus]

I do plan on replacing both up front. I'm assuming the Bilstein 5100s are adjustable? I don't plan on doing any lift at this time so I need to match my current ride height. Have Tokico shocks on the back that I don't plan on replacing yet.

Also, the creaking sounds like it's coming from the strut mount area. I don't believe its the LBJ. I was planning on replacing those next year.

yeah the 5100 are height adjustable and at the lowest setting with 99 spring will be 1 inch higher then the stock height. you have 99 springs in the back so you should be level if the rear of your truck has no sagging.

 

[Andy in Pa]

Since you said the front struts only have 25K, and the ride is getting more harsh, I have a tendency to believe its bushings somewhere. Either your lower A arm bushings, or it could be the uppers too. It could also be the bushings on the coilover mounts. Creaking is a sign that bushings are no longer doing their job as well.

Struts don't typically seize that way, unless the vehicle has been sitting for a LONG time. And even in that case they tend to break loose and fail at the seals.

 

[Bad Luck]

I need to tear into it but could this be a seized up strut? If so, what would be an adequate (read inexpensive) replacement to hold me over until I get the urge to lift it.

Thanks

Your strut is locked up. No bushing is going to suddenly cause a restriction in movement like that. I recommend 5100's or 4600's. 4600's are a bit smoother than 5100's.

 

[EvilMole]

Your strut is locked up. No bushing is going to suddenly cause a restriction in movement like that. I recommend 5100's or 4600's. 4600's are a bit smoother than 5100's.

My initial thought, when I started hearing the noises, was a bad bushing somewhere. The truck is 23 years old so the bushings should probably be replaced, but I don't think this is my problem right now. As I said I need to tear into it to make sure, but I've got another sick car I have to fix first. Can't have two of my three cars down at once. One of these years I'll buy a new car.

Also, last night I reached in and noticed one of the three strut mount nuts was loose. Could be removed by hand. I don't know if this could have caused a problem during my last trail visit or not. I did not install these struts. I'm pretty anal about torques when I do any car work. Guess it could have come loose over time.

 

[Kanoe]

My initial thought, when I started hearing the noises, was a bad bushing somewhere. The truck is 23 years old so the bushings should probably be replaced, but I don't think this is my problem right now. As I said I need to tear into it to make sure, but I've got another sick car I have to fix first. Can't have two of my three cars down at once. One of these years I'll buy a new car.

Also, last night I reached in and noticed one of the three strut mount nuts was loose. Could be removed by hand. I don't know if this could have caused a problem during my last trail visit or not. I did not install these struts. I'm pretty anal about torques when I do any car work. Guess it could have come loose over time.

Those 3 are a b!tch to remove and to torque. Not much room in there at all. They were likely only wrench tight.

 

[EvilMole]

What is the KYB equivalent to the Tokico strut? I'm seeing KYB Gas-A-Just and the MonoMax. I'm assuming the MonoMax is just a little heavier duty.

 

[EvilMole]

Ok, I have the strut assembly removed from the truck and was wondering what is the best way to check for binding elsewhere in the system. Anything to remove before I can freely lift the control arms (sway bar link, etc..). Can I safely jack from under the lower control arm with the strut assembly removed?

I took the strut assembly apart and it looks like that loose mount nut my have caused the strut to go wonky or something. The piston rod isn't exactly smooth and that top washer that rides on the rod is deformed a little. It appears it smacked into something at a slight angle. I was able to push the strut rod down once it was removed from the assembly but it wasn't extending back out own it's own. Had to put it in the vice and tug quite hard a multiple times in order to get it to fully extend. Wanted to reassemble the strut so I can return the spring tool.

I think I'm going for the 4600s and new mounts. Just want to make sure there's nothing else in the system causing any binding.

 

[Bad Luck]

Ok, I have the strut assembly removed from the truck and was wondering what is the best way to check for binding elsewhere in the system. Anything to remove before I can freely lift the control arms (sway bar link, etc..). Can I safely jack from under the lower control arm with the strut assembly removed? Disconnect the sway bar link and you can articulate the suspension with a floor jack under the lower control arm with the strut out.

I took the strut assembly apart and it looks like that loose mount nut my have caused the strut to go wonky or something. The piston rod isn't exactly smooth and that top washer that rides on the rod is deformed a little. It appears it smacked into something at a slight angle. I was able to push the strut rod down once it was removed from the assembly but it wasn't extending back out own it's own. Had to put it in the vice and tug quite hard a multiple times in order to get it to fully extend. Wanted to reassemble the strut so I can return the spring tool. That strut is shot. There was very little dampening happening on that side. I wonder how it got so beat up and bent. What does the other side look like?

I think I'm going for the 4600s and new mounts. Just want to make sure there's nothing else in the system causing any binding.

Answers in bold.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Your shocks sound like mine that had 195K miles on them - they would take a long time to extend after compressing them. I replaced them with KYB Gas-a-just shocks, which are OEM equivalents (Monomax are stiffer). They were $51 each at Amazon, and they have some for $30 if you look at the "new and used" items, I got mine for $25 each) - Amazon.com: KYB KG9025 Gas-a-Just Gas Strut: Automotive

As for creaking, when replacing my struts, I noticed a lot of creaking coming from the lower control arm bushings. So I replaced those, no more creaking. Since your creaking is coming from the upper area, it could be the upper control arm bushings, or the upper strut mount bushing, especially if it was loose. There are also some rubber cushions around the shock top, those can creak too especially if the mount nuts were loose.

 

[EvilMole]

Answers in bold.

Thanks. I kind of figured I needed to disconnect the sway bar link. Just wanted to make sure before I started tugging on things. Haven't had a chance to check the other side yet, but I don't believe there's anything wrong there.

Your shocks sound like mine that had 195K miles on them - they would take a long time to extend after compressing them. I replaced them with KYB Gas-a-just shocks, which are OEM equivalents (Monomax are stiffer). They were $51 each at Amazon, and they have some for $30 if you look at the "new and used" items, I got mine for $25 each) - Amazon.com: KYB KG9025 Gas-a-Just Gas Strut: Automotive

As for creaking, when replacing my struts, I noticed a lot of creaking coming from the lower control arm bushings. So I replaced those, no more creaking. Since your creaking is coming from the upper area, it could be the upper control arm bushings, or the upper strut mount bushing, especially if it was loose. There are also some rubber cushions around the shock top, those can creak too especially if the mount nuts were loose.

I'm torn on which strut to go with. I know I mentioned the 4600s earlier but now I might go with these KYBs and new mounts instead. I just need something to get me back on the road and that can handle the rare desert dirt trail it may see.

I'm pretty confident the creaking sound is coming from the strut assembly. I'll know more once I check out the control arms.

 

[EvilMole]

One other thing. Dumb question alert. Should I be ordering a '96 strut for a '99 spring? Rockauto shows them as the same. If they are the same, then how do you gain the extra 1" or so in extra height the '99 springs supposedly give you.

Sorry, probably over complicating this. I just did the struts on a old optima. Bought the cheap Monroes, slapped them in and put no other thought into it. Just want to make sure the 4runner stays level after changing things.

 

[Bad Luck]

One other thing. Dumb question alert. Should I be ordering a '96 strut for a '99 spring? Rockauto shows them as the same. If they are the same, then how do you gain the extra 1" or so in extra height the '99 springs supposedly give you.

Sorry, probably over complicating this. I just did the struts on a old optima. Bought the cheap Monroes, slapped them in and put no other thought into it. Just want to make sure the 4runner stays level after changing things.

99 springs are taller than other model year springs so the height difference in factory suspension is in the spring height not the strut. 96 strut is interchangeable/same part. If you're looking to add height without changing springs you can try a top hat spacer (goes between top of the top strut mount and the frame where the top strut mount bolts to) or a preload spacer (goes between the spring isolator and the strut top mount).

 

[EvilMole]

99 springs are taller than other model year springs so the height difference in factory suspension is in the spring height not the strut. 96 strut is interchangeable/same part. If you're looking to add height without changing springs you can try a top hat spacer (goes between top of the top strut mount and the frame where the top strut mount bolts to) or a preload spacer (goes between the spring isolator and the strut top mount).

Got it. For some reason I was thinking a taller spring might require a longer strut. I'm not looking to add any height at this time. Just looking to get the truck back on the road as fast and as reasonably priced as I can. I'm going to go with the KYBs for the struts and mounts. KYB has a $25 rebate if I felt like doing the rears as well, but I don't think I need to do that at this time.