Can you pull 200 watts from 5th Gen 4Runner outlets while driving?

[Bonzi]

Hi,

Is there any way get 200 watts from either type of outlet WHILE DRIVING to charge a Bluetti EB70S? The 5th Gen 4Runner has two types of outlets. One type is a 12v DC, 100 watt cigarette socket. The second is an inverted 110v AC, 100/400 watt wall plug type.

Thanks!

 

[Kamalani Mahie]

Hi,

Is there any way get 200 watts from either type of outlet WHILE DRIVING to charge a Bluetti EB70S? The 5th Gen 4Runner has two types of outlets. One type is a 12v DC, 100 watt cigarette socket. The second is an inverted 110v AC, 100/400 watt wall plug type.

Thanks!

Why don't you try it and let us know. Most I've pulled out of the cigarette lighter is about 60 watts charging my jackery. Also, remember each part of the system has to be able to handle the current/power for the given system voltage. Usually it's the plug/cable that's the limiting factor in my experience.

 

[ATX14]

I have used the 400 watt outlet in the rear to charge my 1000w Jackery while driving. Remember that you have to hit the 100/400w button every time you restart your vehicle to get the 400w inverter to turn on.

 

[lewdog998]

I have used the 400 watt outlet in the rear to charge my 1000w Jackery while driving. Remember that you have to hit the 100/400w button every time you restart your vehicle to get the 400w inverter to turn on.

I thought u can only get 400w when NOT driving????

 

[Forgetful]

I thought u can only get 400w when NOT driving????

Correct. If I use my 125W laptop charger while driving it trips the protection circuit.

 

[jp.vegas]

Hi,

Is there any way get 200 watts from either type of outlet WHILE DRIVING to charge a Bluetti EB70S? The 5th Gen 4Runner has two types of outlets. One type is a 12v DC, 100 watt cigarette socket. The second is an inverted 110v AC, 100/400 watt wall plug type.

Thanks!

No. The 12v outlets are limited to ~10 amps, so 120 watts give or take. The 120v outlet is limited to 100 watts while driving, 400 watts while in “park.”

 

[Ripper238]

I have used the 400 watt outlet in the rear to charge my 1000w Jackery while driving. Remember that you have to hit the 100/400w button every time you restart your vehicle to get the 400w inverter to turn on.

I have run a few items that are 3-400 watts from the 110 outlet. Just need to make sure the vehicle is running to get the full power. Not sure if you need to be in park for the full 400 watts?

 

[jp.vegas]

I have run a few items that are 3-400 watts from the 110 outlet. Just need to make sure the vehicle is running to get the full power. Not sure if you need to be in park for the full 400 watts?

You absolutely do. Read your manual, or start the truck, turn on the inverter to the 400w setting and watch the lights on the switch when you shift to drive.

 

[Sundy]

There was a post I recall reading where you could bypass the inverter to push out 400W at all times - no idea on how well it works or issues it causes.

 

[emmantik]

There is a mod/wiring harness for this;

In-Cab Inverter 400W In-Motion Wire Harness – KTJO 4x4

In-Cab Inverter 400W In-Motion Wire Harness DIY Package – KTJO 4x4

 

[Bonzi]

There is a mod/wiring harness for this;

In-Cab Inverter 400W In-Motion Wire Harness – KTJO 4x4

In-Cab Inverter 400W In-Motion Wire Harness DIY Package – KTJO 4x4

I appreciate everyone’s input here. I will do some more reading on the 400 watt in motion mod. It sure would be nice to charge closer to the 200 watt limit of the Bluetti if possible.

 

[emmantik]

FYI - Cali-Raised has them as well.

Toyota Small Style OEM Bumper Light Bar Switch
– Cali Raised LED

 

[deafboy]

FYI - Cali-Raised has them as well.

Toyota Small Style OEM Bumper Light Bar Switch
– Cali Raised LED

Yup, have this one, works marvelously well.

Extended the additional outlet to add an outlet to the front. Love it.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I am curious what the effects on the charging system would be, I never dug too deeply into how the circuit was set-up and why they designed it the way they did? I mean 400W would be an additional 30amps or so at 13.4v (roughly average operating voltage when the car is running). I wonder how much overhead you have in terms of charging system capacity parked vs. driving? I would venture a guess the biggest reason it's limited when driving is because they were worried about errant voltage spikes?

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

Not sure if this is relevant but I saw the coolest thing the other day. I was looking at “extreme” onboard power options.

High output alternators included. In the grand scheme of things, alternators are economical to mass produce, but are definitely not the most efficient or effective in power production.

I saw some interesting setups for vehicles that do not have the luxury of a pre-existing PTO on the side of the transmission (or in rarer instances, transfer case).

You can combine a clutch pump, which runs off the engine, and a hydraulic powered generator which uses the pressurized fluid to produce electricity, and the pump picks it back up from the reservoir, rinse and repeat.

The largest of these clutch pumps seems to max out at 17 GPM / 3500 PSI, whether small gas or large diesel truck engine, which translates into being able to feed approximately 15 KW output on a generator with input ratings matching that of the hydraulic system.

Drawback is cost. $2000 for 17 GPM clutch pump setup and I wasn’t able to price the actual generator part. That was on a UK website.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[deafboy]

I am curious what the effects on the charging system would be, I never dug too deeply into how the circuit was set-up and why they designed it the way they did? I mean 400W would be an additional 30amps or so at 13.4v (roughly average operating voltage when the car is running). I wonder how much overhead you have in terms of charging system capacity parked vs. driving? I would venture a guess the biggest reason it's limited when driving is because they were worried about errant voltage spikes?

I'd say this probably wouldn't make much of a difference.

The models with power inverters and dual ACs have a 130A alternator compared to the standard 100A alternator.

 

[Sundy]

I am curious what the effects on the charging system would be, I never dug too deeply into how the circuit was set-up and why they designed it the way they did? I mean 400W would be an additional 30amps or so at 13.4v (roughly average operating voltage when the car is running). I wonder how much overhead you have in terms of charging system capacity parked vs. driving? I would venture a guess the biggest reason it's limited when driving is because they were worried about errant voltage spikes?

Triple State Voltage Booster - 5th Gen 4Runner — ArcLightLEDs

You could look at using one of these voltage boosters on the alternator, and only run it when you know you're planning to use the inverter? It's been quite awhile since I've looked at electrical stuff, but I believe you'd put an extra 130w out of the system with the booster linked above.

One post I saw said the OEM alternator idles around 80amp and max is 130amp for output.

 

[El Dusty]

I appreciate everyone’s input here. I will do some more reading on the 400 watt in motion mod. It sure would be nice to charge closer to the 200 watt limit of the Bluetti if possible.

Im a little late to the party but have a similar setup to you. I charge my battery simultaneously on the 110v DC and the 12v socket next to it. Check your battery to see if it has USB-C in / out to charge from the 12v. With this method I regularly get 100w on the 110v and between 15-60w on the USB-C while driving.

I carry a small folding 100W solar panel to keep it topped up at camp on longer trips. BOL

 

[renhoek]

Hi,

Is there any way get 200 watts from either type of outlet WHILE DRIVING to charge a Bluetti EB70S? The 5th Gen 4Runner has two types of outlets. One type is a 12v DC, 100 watt cigarette socket. The second is an inverted 110v AC, 100/400 watt wall plug type.

Thanks!

I can confirm the other comments here: I can use the AC/DC power supply that came with my Bluetti EB70s on the 400W AC outlet and get the full 200W charging current as expected. Just got to remember to turn it at the dash.

HOWEVER, head's up if you're thinking about using that built-in 12VDC outlet. I found that my EB70s is only pulling ~58-60W if I try to charge it from the 12VDC outlet. That should be 12v x 8A max = 96W max.

It would appear that the 12vdc outlet is fairly well regulated at 12.1v (vs floating up around 13.8 or higher that the alternator is pumping out), and that combined with the EB70s MPPT current limiting circuitry/logic, the EB70s only pulls about 60% of what it should.

If I use an external variable power supply to test that and bump up the voltage >13.8 or so, then we start to get some reasonable charge current into the battery. This might be a change in the EB70s vs EB70, since various online reviews/tests (hobotech, jasonoid) seem to be getting 100W at 12V.

So, instead of using the AC/DC power supply, I'm toying with running a +12V line from the 4R's main battery back to that area (sized and fused to handle 30A for future-proofing) and then adding a 12->24VDC step-up adapter to get 24x8max = 192A max.

Amazon.com: Cllena DC/DC 12V to 24V Boost Converter 20A 480W Step Up Voltage Regulator Module Car Power Supply Voltage Transformer (Input 10V-16V) : Electronics

BTW - don't try using that step-up converter via the factory 12Vdc. That's only rated at 120W total (ALL 12V jacks in the truck combined) and you'll blow the fuse when it pulls 200W.

 

[renhoek]

I just got my variable power supply in today to test my new EB70S better, and I need to correct some of the info I mentioned above.

There's probably no difference between the EB70s and the EB70. The issue I am running into is that it's my rear 12 volt DC jack is supplying 12.1 volts. However with the variable power supply set to 12.2 volts, the EB70s is charging at 93 Watts. If I plug this unit into the DC jack in the front dash, then I get 96 Watts as expected. So that 0.1v drop to the rear outlet combined with the EB70s's MPPT input sensitivity is the problem.

Probably going to start looking at running that 24v/10A adapter now.