Can You Repair The Stock Alternator?

SCRunner12

New member
Is there a way to repair or clean the stock alternator? I went through one mud/water hole months ago and still having issues with my alternator turning off. Every so often the battery light will come on and a few hits with a wrench to the alternator and everything is running smooth again. This happened 3 times on my drive home yesterday at 15-20 min intervals. I've heard of people cleaning the alternator out, but I can't find a write up about it. I'd rather not buy a new/reman alternator as I don't have the money right now.

Also, what years/models GM alternators work? Might make a trip to the pick n pull if I have to.
 
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the chevy cs-144 is NEARLY directly interchangeable. the tensioner bracket needs to be adjusted to have more of a bend. the upper mountin bolt will need a few washers. you need to find a jumper for the chevy style connector to the yota style. you'll have to get a longer belt as well. HOWEVER the cs-144 puts out 124-140 amps. model years are as follows

Delco CS144 Series
140 Amp, 12 Volt, CW, 6-Groove Pulley
Used On:
(1996-94) Buick Roadmaster 5.7L
(1996-93) Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD) 5.7L
(1996-93) Chevrolet Caprice 4.3L, 5.7L
(1996-95) Chevrolet Impala 5.7L
(1995-92) Chevrolet Lumina APV Van 3.8L
(1995-92) Oldsmobile Silhouette 3.8L
(1995-92) Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8L

i found one on amazon for 90 bucks and i bought the jumper for about 20 bucks.

here's the link to the jumper

i can run ALL my lights (look at my sig) with the fan on full blast and the radio cranking at idle with the hazards on and there's absolutely no dimming.

144 install on yotatech

this thread was particularly helpful. it's got a bunch of good links in there
 
Last edited:
I think the mud is not related.
Your description matches word for word what an old alternator whose brushes are worn out, acts like.

The brushes are the part of the alternator that physically transmits power produced by the movement of the stator and rotor.

The brushes are always in physical contact and over time, they wear out. They "ride" and are spinning, always touching.

Your "beating" of the alternator helps force the brush to make contact. As the brush continues to wear, I bet you will notice the frequency that you need to get out and tap it starts to go up. Eventually, even whacking it won't cause the brushes to make a physical connection.

Brushes are easy to replace if you want to rebuild it.


Edit: I suppose mud could be doing some as well, but I really think your brushes have simply worn out.
 
the chevy cs-144 is NEARLY directly interchangeable. the tensioner bracket needs to be adjusted to have more of a bend. the upper mountin bolt will need a few washers. you need to find a jumper for the chevy style connector to the yota style. you'll have to get a longer belt as well. HOWEVER the cs-144 puts out 124-140 amps. model years are as follows

Delco CS144 Series
140 Amp, 12 Volt, CW, 6-Groove Pulley
Used On:
(1996-94) Buick Roadmaster 5.7L
(1996-93) Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD) 5.7L
(1996-93) Chevrolet Caprice 4.3L, 5.7L
(1996-95) Chevrolet Impala 5.7L
(1995-92) Chevrolet Lumina APV Van 3.8L
(1995-92) Oldsmobile Silhouette 3.8L
(1995-92) Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8L

i found one on amazon for 90 bucks and i bought the jumper for about 20 bucks.

here's the link to the jumper

i can run ALL my lights (look at my sig) with the fan on full blast and the radio cranking at idle with the hazards on and there's absolutely no dimming.

144 install on yotatech

this thread was particularly helpful. it's got a bunch of good links in there

Thanks! That is awesome and I might look into pulling one from a junkyard.

OH almost forgot! struts got here today! thanks man!

Dang they even got there early, nice. It was my pleasure and I'm sure you will love the ride.

I think the mud is not related.
Your description matches word for word what an old alternator whose brushes are worn out, acts like.

The brushes are the part of the alternator that physically transmits power produced by the movement of the stator and rotor.

The brushes are always in physical contact and over time, they wear out. They "ride" and are spinning, always touching.

Your "beating" of the alternator helps force the brush to make contact. As the brush continues to wear, I bet you will notice the frequency that you need to get out and tap it starts to go up. Eventually, even whacking it won't cause the brushes to make a physical connection.

Brushes are easy to replace if you want to rebuild it.


Edit: I suppose mud could be doing some as well, but I really think your brushes have simply worn out.

I'm not sure if the mud is related, but it only started happening after I went through the one mud hole. The same thing happened to 2 other guys as well. I'll probably call up Toyota and see what the brushes cost since my alternator works, but is probably just the brushes. Thanks for the info.

rebuildable. Its alot cheaper then new

Exactly, I'm not too keen on forking over $150 for an alternator right now.
 

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