Caster/camber and LCA bushings

2005v8limited

2005v8limited

Member
Hi all! I have looked through lots of various threads on the subject and haven't found all the answers I am looking for. I tried to get an alignment before I buy new tires only to discover that I have all 4 seized cams in the LCA bushings. I have a buddy that works at a dealership and says his cost would be around $300 for new OEM bushings and cams. The cost has me looking at either Whitelines or Energy Suspension Polys and either the Moog greasable cams and bolts or some cheaper non-greasable units. So for those of you with experience here are my questions.
1. Does either of the polyurethane options have a distinct advantage of the other?
This Energy Suspension Control Arm Bushing Sets 8-3129R - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
VS
This Whiteline Control Arm Bushings W53312 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

2. Is there a clear winner on the bolts and cams?
These New Pair Left Right ¦ Front Camber Caster Kit ±1 50 ¦ Free Shipping | eBay

Or these: http://www.jcwhitney.com/moog-camber-and-alignment-kits/p2018266.jcwx?filterid=d2166y2005g34j1

I fully plan on needing to cut out the others with a sawzall, I already bought the blades. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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Interested to see what you decide on. I am likely in the same boat, just lifted mine and still need to do the alignment. Based on the rust/stuck bolts elsewhere I wouldn't be surprised if mine was messed up.

I've heard good things about energy parts
 
I don't know the advantage of one over the other but I just had the same issue. I did the energy suspension poly bushings with the moog grease-able cam bolts. Got them on Amazon through their damaged packaging pricing. Cam bolts were $10 per side.
 
+1 on how you sort this out.
I have one ceased as well. Although it's only out a hair outside out the green range so I'm not worrying about it. That being said I don't like things like that going on so will eventually address it. I have not looked into the fix so will be curious to see what you find out.

Keep us posted, someone on here must have some info for you.
I have read repeatedly about how others speak highly about Energy products around here.
 
I replaced both arms with new OEM replacements. Thry were so seized we needed to use a torch. I then used SPC alignment cams that have a plastic sleeve preventing future issure.
 
Okay, thanks for the replies so far! I will try to do a write-up. It looks like maybe I will go the Energy Suspension route and try to save a little coin. From what I am gathering, it will be a little more work to burn out the inner sleeve from the front ones.
 
S4TA said:
I don't know the advantage of one over the other but I just had the same issue. I did the energy suspension poly bushings with the moog grease-able cam bolts. Got them on Amazon through their damaged packaging pricing. Cam bolts were $10 per side.
Click to expand...

I'd like to know more about how to get that pricing! That's a smokin deal.
 
2005v8limited said:
I'd like to know more about how to get that pricing! That's a smokin deal.
Click to expand...


When you find something on Amazon, look at the other offers. Sometimes there is another Amazon offer. They call it used, but typically it is packaging damaged or small blemish. Just discovered it a few months ago.
 
Okay, here is what I have thus far: I ordered the whiteline bushing because I didn't want to worry about more work and this stuff taking longer than planned. They came and appear to be a high quality product but I can't say much beyond that. More on that later.

For the new bolts, I have ran into a snag. I saw on a Tacoma forum that a member bought the bolts with the plastic housing and they worked well. I ordered the same thing and when they came, all the bolts were the same length. I won't be able to use the bolts I ordered for the rear inner lower control arm bolts as planned. It looks like they are all sized for the front. I will get in touch with the eBay store tomorrow to see if they can rectify the situation but for now I am officially running behind as I was hoping to be able to do the install tonight.
Here are the ones to steer clear of:
 
Just a heads up, removing the LCA bushings might take more work than anticipated.

Check out this post from another member:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...-thread-2004-sport-edition-8.html#post1041951

In regards to using polyurethane bushings (although I do not have these on my LCA's, I've used them in other applications) they generally provide a firmer/responsive ride. Great for improved handling. They do tend to squeak more if not properly lubricated when installed.

Although when I've used polyurethane bushings, I never had issues with squeaks at all. Just be sure to lube it up.
 
That camber kit pictured from ebay is not compatible, just get SPC or the Moog greasable. (Wheelers and Rock Auto sell these respectively)

Another note on removing the LCA bolts - if you have to cut them, use a very fine tooth blade. I used 24tpi hack saw blades cut in half and inserted into my sawzall at a slow speed. They walked right through compared to the 18tpi "Torch" blades that took hours per cut.
 
blackoutt said:
That camber kit pictured from ebay is not compatible, just get SPC or the Moog greasable. (Wheelers and Rock Auto sell these respectively)

Another note on removing the LCA bolts - if you have to cut them, use a very fine tooth blade. I used 24tpi hack saw blades cut in half and inserted into my sawzall at a slow speed. They walked right through compared to the 18tpi "Torch" blades that took hours per cut.
Click to expand...

Great advice and help, thank you. I will return the 18 TPI blades and grab some 24 TPI units.
I wish I had known beforehand about the eBay bolts. That's what I get for going cheap.
 
Beater said:
Just a heads up, removing the LCA bushings might take more work than anticipated.

Check out this post from another member:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...-thread-2004-sport-edition-8.html#post1041951

In regards to using polyurethane bushings (although I do not have these on my LCA's, I've used them in other applications) they generally provide a firmer/responsive ride. Great for improved handling. They do tend to squeak more if not properly lubricated when installed.

Although when I've used polyurethane bushings, I never had issues with squeaks at all. Just be sure to lube it up.
Click to expand...

I am hoping that by going with the Whiteline kit I can avoid any burning of bushings or grinding of washers. Thanks for that link! Everyone seems pleased with the end product when they go with Polys.
 
Just a little update here. Right now my 4Runner is in the garage with no lower control arms and I will be driving my wife's car to work tomorrow. I have ran into countless problems. Someone gave the advice to just get new lower control arms. They are correct! Here is what I have ran into.
1. It took a lot of tries to get the correct bolts from the eBay vendor I used. In the end they made it right so I won't bash them but it took a week longer than I expected. Save a lot of time and spend a little more by getting the SPC, Moog or factory bolts.
2. Have access to a good press. If you don't, you probably won't save much money over buying new complete arms or you will burn up a lot of time that you could be working or spending time doing better things. I rented a clamp press. I tried the bottle jack method. It forced out the rubber part but left the metal sleeve in there which I had to painstakingly remove with a combination of swearing, heat, cursing my decision to DIY and relief cuts from a sawzall. This has been a LOT of work getting things out and I am only through one side.
3. The lower ball joints are seized tight. The clamp press doesnt have a sleeve the right size so I rented a 5 ton ball joint press. The press doesn't get enough purchase on the body of the lower control arm and keeps popping off. I will buy a socket tomorrow and try that with the clamp press or see if I can find a price of pipe of something to work.

Since it's already apart and I am out for a while anyway, I am going to hit the rust with a wire wheel and repaint them.

I still plan on doing a write-up when I am done. I will do it in a separate thread.
 
When you get a socket/pipe the right size, put a lot of heat to the control arm around the BJ area before you press them out.
I had to do the same, grinded out some of the inside of the socket to fit mine. I didn't use that socket any way.
 
sorry to here about your issues an i think were all gonna have to deal with these issues.


I'm just waiting on some new ball joints and i already have my ES bushing. My main concern was I only have 80k and my bushing failed. i didn't want to trust unknown brand bushing and ball joint on a branded aftermarket arm. I only spent $120 on bushing and balljoints and hope i don't regret it.
 
2005v8limited said:
Just a little update here. Right now my 4Runner is in the garage with no lower control arms and I will be driving my wife's car to work tomorrow. I have ran into countless problems. Someone gave the advice to just get new lower control arms. They are correct! Here is what I have ran into.
1. It took a lot of tries to get the correct bolts from the eBay vendor I used. In the end they made it right so I won't bash them but it took a week longer than I expected. Save a lot of time and spend a little more by getting the SPC, Moog or factory bolts.
2. Have access to a good press. If you don't, you probably won't save much money over buying new complete arms or you will burn up a lot of time that you could be working or spending time doing better things. I rented a clamp press. I tried the bottle jack method. It forced out the rubber part but left the metal sleeve in there which I had to painstakingly remove with a combination of swearing, heat, cursing my decision to DIY and relief cuts from a sawzall. This has been a LOT of work getting things out and I am only through one side.
3. The lower ball joints are seized tight. The clamp press doesnt have a sleeve the right size so I rented a 5 ton ball joint press. The press doesn't get enough purchase on the body of the lower control arm and keeps popping off. I will buy a socket tomorrow and try that with the clamp press or see if I can find a price of pipe of something to work.

Since it's already apart and I am out for a while anyway, I am going to hit the rust with a wire wheel and repaint them.

I still plan on doing a write-up when I am done. I will do it in a separate thread.
Click to expand...

What clamp press did you rent/buy? When I was going to attempt this job, I rented the Autozone one and it didn't have enough pieces. The Advance Auto Parts one did.

FYI... I started this job and stopped when I noticed it was taking way longer than I planned. Started sawing through camber bolts and stopped before I got myself in trouble.
 
The rented c-clamp press didn't work for me, just bent the c-clamp open. Since I had the arm off anyway I just threw it in the 12 ton bottle jack press - It was all it could do with a ton of heat to get the lower ball joint to pop out. Looking back I should have just bought new Moog arms and been done same day instead of the 3 days it took me to mess around with rebuilding the old.
 
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