cat converter - dealer is crazy

[OU4x4]

so we're out for a scenic drive in the mountains, the trail is a bit rough but nothing technically demanding and near the end of the day i get a cel and associated lights. still runs fine so no big deal.
it was time for an oil change anyway so off to the dealer i go. ($25 for an oil change isn't bad so i still use the dealer)
they gave me a call and said the cel is showing a cat converter failure.
i'm thinking the rough trail broke lose the inner workings of the cat??
so i ask how much to replace them (he says they like to do both at the same time) and his quote was $3000. WTF?!?
i know i can get both cats installed for around 400 at local shops so that isn't a big issue but my question is...
is it really the converters that went bad or maybe the O2 sensors? or would the O2 sensors give a different error code?
what a pain in the a**.

 

[vandert]

Yes, O2's will do a different CEL, and No, do not pay that, you can do a little online shopping and get CAT's for pretty cheap now, especially if you go with an aftermarket one, I know that magnaflow has high flow cats now for under 300, and it's 4 bolts to remove your cat, anyone can do it if you get a direct replacment. Personally I have no cat right now, clogged ,and I sold it then welded the ends of it off from a test pipe but I live in florida and we don't have inspections, picked up quite a bit of top end off of dropping it and maybe half a mpg in the city, haven't did a highway trip with it yet to tell you the increase there.

 

[Rock Slide]

OEM cats are over a $1000 each, so the price itself that you were quoted is correct. I was quoted $2800 for both of mine until I found out it was only a loose bolt on the heat shield rattling that was causing all the noise. (I had no CEL, just a noisey cat. Dealer tried to tell me the cats were bad...ha!) In for some reading, check out my full thread on it: http://www.yotatech.com/f2/baffle-broken-inside-cat-converter-how-fix-187082/

What codes are you getting? And I assume you're 4Runner is over 80K miles?

 

[toyota1999]

Cat OEM price

OEM cats are over a $1000 each, so the price itself that you were quoted is correct. I was quoted $2800 for both of mine until I found out it was only a loose bolt on the heat shield rattling that was causing all the noise. (I had no CEL, just a noisey cat. Dealer tried to tell me the cats were bad...ha!) In for some reading, check out my full thread on it: http://www.yotatech.com/f2/baffle-broken-inside-cat-converter-how-fix-187082/

What codes are you getting? And I assume you're 4Runner is over 80K miles?

I will take ANYTHING the dealer suggests or quotes concerning my 4Runner repair with grains of salt ! You might be quoted the right price for the CATS, but the question is do you really need new ones ( nice catch about the loose bolt there ) ?

Contrary to popular belief, Toyota Dealership is not the best place to have your vehicle issues fixed .

Cheers,

Walter, Las Vegas

 

[OU4x4]

well because i'm an idiot i forgot to ask about the specific codes. i'll get those when i pick it up this afternoon.
and right now i'm at 132K so i guess exhaust maintenance at this point isn't unheard of.
good to know i can take care of if myself. even at 1000 for each cat...1000 for labor seems excessive.

 

[techno]

Yep, my most written comment. What is the code??

Hey Walter, you still having issues with yours?

 

[OU4x4]

alright kids here it is
P0420

looks like a catalyst efficiency code

 

[techno]

By far the most common cause of P0420 is a bad A/F sensor. Secondly, the O2 sensor and lastly the cat. But since the dealer can make more $$ from replacing the cat, thats what they suggest first.

Do you have a multimeter? If so I can tell you how to check the sensors. I'm willing to bet that it is the A/F sensor.

And FYI, this code is generated when the computer recieves an abnormal signal from one of the sensors. The A/F sensor is in front of the cat and the O2 sensor is behind. The computer compares the two signals to check the health of the cat. Unfortunately, it's the actual sensors that commonly fail first.

 

[JohnsD90]

the dealer quoted me $212 plus taxes for a tailpipe not installed, all it is, is a bent piece of metal, i think its $.30 worth of steel, WTF, i Dont know how they keep a straight face when they told me that.

 

[toyota1999]

Very specific

By far the most common cause of P0420 is a bad A/F sensor. Secondly, the O2 sensor and lastly the cat. But since the dealer can make more $$ from replacing the cat, thats what they suggest first.

Do you have a multimeter? If so I can tell you how to check the sensors. I'm willing to bet that it is the A/F sensor.

And FYI, this code is generated when the computer recieves an abnormal signal from one of the sensors. The A/F sensor is in front of the cat and the O2 sensor is behind. The computer compares the two signals to check the health of the cat. Unfortunately, it's the actual sensors that commonly fail first.

Be very careful and ask a lot of questions before you deliver your 4Runner for an old time raping at the dealership. This site will save you a lot of frustrations and money. GUys like Techno, Toytech76 and many others are very helpful individuals.

Yes Rob. My stalling issue was finally addressed by a local mechanic - two cracked and dry-rotted hoses were the culprit ! I am driving stalling free for quite a while now :driving:.

Yea, I think $1000 bucks just for the labor is excessive.

Cheers,

Walter, Las Vegas

 

[OU4x4]

By far the most common cause of P0420 is a bad A/F sensor. Secondly, the O2 sensor and lastly the cat. But since the dealer can make more $$ from replacing the cat, thats what they suggest first.

Do you have a multimeter? If so I can tell you how to check the sensors. I'm willing to bet that it is the A/F sensor.

And FYI, this code is generated when the computer recieves an abnormal signal from one of the sensors. The A/F sensor is in front of the cat and the O2 sensor is behind. The computer compares the two signals to check the health of the cat. Unfortunately, it's the actual sensors that commonly fail first.

I've got the meter. i'll take all the help i can get. i don't want to bust out $400 for new cats if the faulty sensors will still throw codes.

i know how helpful this site can be. though i haven't posted much, just reading other posts has already been a huge help.

 

[techno]

To inspect the A/F sensor, crawl under the car and disconnect the sensor at the electrical connection a few inches from the actual sensor.

Orient the plug so you are looking at it with the 2 little ridges that are close to each other, at the bottom.

Measure the resistance between the top two terminals.
Resistance should be 0.8 - 1.4 ohms at 68°.

 

[OU4x4]

i'll see what i can do...the 68 might be tough to come by. we're expecting snow in the nearby foothills.

 

[theizzardking]

any dis advantages of running with out a cat? on these beasts? i live in the country and have no emissions requirements, i was thinking off taking mine off for more flow, does that work on our runners?

 

[techno]

i'll see what i can do...the 68 might be tough to come by. we're expecting snow in the nearby foothills.

The temp is just a guide. For most metals, resistance increase as temperature increase, so if it's cooler where you are then you can expect slightly lower resistance value. Anyway, if the sensor is bad the values will be well outside the range.

Izzardking, I understand the desire for simplicity and power, but leave the cat on please. Firstly, it's illegal to remove them. Secondly, think of the environment and the air we have to breath. Thirdly, the ECM will throw a fit if you take it out and will not be able to correctly tune the engine.
There are high flow cats on the market if you've got some cash to spend.