Catalytic Converter/Exhaust systemrepair....

Basically, the only difference between the two error codes you have had is that the P1135 is being a little more specific as to what the issue is. P0420 can be a symptom of P1135, if you follow me.
As long as your mechanic bought a new A/F sensor for the front and used one of the two new O2 sensors that you purchased for the rear then you should be fine. The O2 sensor can not physically be used in the front (the electrical connections are different) so there is no way he can mess that up.
So, provided that the old sensors were the cause of the problem in the first place (they usually are), then I'm predicting that your problems will be solved.
 
techno said:
So, provided that the old sensors were the cause of the problem in the first place (they usually are), then I'm predicting that your problems will be solved.

Thanks Techno - I will let you know!!!
 
Techno-

I hope this is the final result.

Mechanic replaced air fuel sensor, toyota part 89467-35011. Price was 210.00. He also replaced the rear O2 sensor 89465-35580 that I had. I paid 107.00 for that. His labor, 127.50 for 1.5 hours. Total bill 444.50 plus sales tax.

The dealership gave me a big song and dance about the whole catalytic converter system needing to be replaced.

I will feel better about three weeks from now if no error codes re-appear. For now I think you really helped me out big time.

My 2002 has 130,000 miles on it, mostly maintenance free. Still on second set of tires. My goal is 200,000 miles and then it is history! I drive through New York City roads every day. I breakdown would be a major inconvenience. So I try and keep it in good airworthy shape, just without making the dealer rich. That is why I bought Toyota in the first place.

Thanks for the help!

JG
 
Okay, new twist to my original post on this thread. I want to see if any of you experts can help me, again. So, originally I threw P0420 code and you helped diagnose that on top of the dealership fixing P1135. Other than dealership installing the A/F sensor 30K miles ago, I did not act on fixing the P0240 code at all (no 02 sensors, no cat conv. nothing).
Where this gets goofy is, the CEL goes away in the early spring and always comes back in the late fall. I am skeptical that anything is truly wrong beyond a short in the electronics/wiring of the truck. I say this because I passed NJ state emissions in August with no problems and no CEL light.
Why is it that my beloved truck would throw a P0240 code ONLY when I seem to turn on the heat (roll the thermostat to the right) in my rig? Is it possible that it is in any way tied to the fact that my lights are out behind my fan and thermostat control? After the CEL being off since April, it reappeared during a routine errand trip yesterday. Anyone?
 
Smilar issue

Last Tuesday I bought a 2000 4runner 4WD, SR5, V6, 5 speed manual trans, 128K miles from private party w/AZ title. At smog test here in NV, car was rejected test could not compplete. Previous owner said he had disconnected battery and to drive it a while to get computer to reset. After two days CEL came on and shows Code P0420. Guess that explains why he disconnected the battery. Now I have to fix it to pass smog to get it registered in NV. Needless to say he is not returning my phone calls,

Anyway, after closer inspection, this is a non California emission system and the cat is a universal welded on in May 2008. I plan to test the front 02 sensor first. If I replace it will the CEL go off automatically or do i have to disconnect battery and do drive cycle again to reset everything?

Saw a Denso front 02 sensor @ car-stuff .com for $167 Part #NP2349001. Is that the correct Part Number for the front sensor for this car?

If front one turns out not to be the problem, do I test/replace rear one or go straight to replacing the only 17 month old cat?

This is a great site. I'm new member and really appreciate any info you can provide.
 
234-9001 is for a variety of Cali. and 50-state 4Runner from 1999 on and it is an Air/Fuel sensor. If you really have a one-cat 49-state car, that is absolutely the wrong sensor. Check your emissions tag under the hood to be sure.

See this site for accurate Denso numbers and pretty good prices:

URDUSA.com

I have always reset so I can't tell you what happens if you don't. Why wouldn't you reset?

Rear sensor CAN cure a P0420--it cured mine, but there is no guarantee it WILL. Best guide is if you know the age of your sensors. If they are original it is time to change both anyway at 128K. Then go from there. Be aware that aftermarket cats don't always work to keep the CEL's off in these cars.

Check thoroughly for exhaust leaks, some good original cats have been thrown out because people didn't.
 
Thanks for the info. and yes, mine is a federal vehicle. Bought and installed a Toyota OEM front O2 Sensor and after 135 miles Check Engine Light came back on. Since I just bought the car, I don't know how old the sensors are. The front one we took off didn't look that old. It also didn't take much to loosen the two nuts. I guess we'll replace the rear O2 sensor next to try to get the code to stay cleared.
You mentioned, "...aftermarket cats don't always work to keep the CELs off in these cars." Since this aftermarket cat was welded on, Toyota dealer said I'd have to replace the whole cat and muffler & pipe, too. Their estimate $2374 ($2197 parts plus labor). Ouch! Any suggestions? I need to get it to pass smog to get it registered by Nov 5th, but can't afford that kind of expense. I'm hoping Nevada DMV will give me an extension.
 
The catalytic converter is responsible for the ignition and burning of engine exhaust gases which remain after the initial reaction occurs. This product became standard equipment in the U.S.

The catalyst in this device uses platinum and palladium to turn the initial exhaust created by the engine into gases which are less harmful to the environment. Each vehicle releases hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide, and nitrogen oxides during the combustion process.

You can generate more horsepower without it.
Once the catalytic converter is removed from a vehicle, some models do experience a significant increase in power. This advantage occurs because the unit creates a source of back-pressure on the engine.

You can achieve better gas mileage.
Since the catalytic converter places a strain on the engine with its constrictive design, it must work harder to achieve the same energy than it does without the device in place.

You can have your exhaust sound better.
The catalytic converter works like a muffler on the average vehicle. Its job is to reduce the impact of the gases emerging from the engine due to the combustion and burning of fuel.

You must follow a specific process to legally remove your catalytic converter in a new way forward. Removing the catalytic converter may create a circumstance where you trigger a fault code in your vehicle. If you have a check engine light, then this will illuminate on your heads-up display.
 

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