Catalytic Threshold

toeheadskater

New member
I have replaced the pre and post cat o2 sensors and air filter. CEL still keeps comin on. It's a Magnaflow cat. But I don't know how old it is. Anyone have any luck pulling out their cat entirely? Thinking that's my next move.
 
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It may be cheaper to have a smog check for $30-40 than putting in a new cat. It will give you a good idea where the problem is. It may be as simple as a vacuum leak.:keyboard:
 
Well I'm not gonna replace it. I was gonna take it out altogether and leave it out. I ran seafoam through the pcv valve and it all seemed fine.
 
Not quite sure of your local/state laws on pollution/emissions control but here in VA, a catalytic converter is required to pass inspection. Also, personally, I would want my cat on my truck. I would feel bad if I melted all the glaciers for those polar bears. As for how easy it is to remove, go rent a pipe cutter from AutoZone, AdvanceAutoParts, or O'Reillys for $100 and they will refund you when you bring it back. You COULD get clamps and a piece of pipe to replace that gap from where your cat was. But I would weld those joints to prevent exhaust leaks. Good luck!!
 
Yeah Idaho doesn't have emissions control. And I was planning on cutting it and straight piping it. Curious if anyone had done it and had luck with the CEL ligjt
 
Gonna have to re program the ECU. The trucks are really finicky when it comes to after market mufflers/cats. There are some products out there the allow you to run them, they just basically piggy pack the ECU and fix the signal. Cant remember the place though.
 
I'd like to know how i can get that goin. If I'm gonna put hundreds into the o2 sensors I want the damn light to go off

You should get an O2 gauge and use it to check the O2 sensors. You can pick them up for about $20-$30 on ebay. They are also handy for tune ups to use to check for the correct mixture. You can also check the O2 sensors with a DVM if you know what to check for. A normal O2 sensor puts out 0-1 volt when it's heated up to about 700 degrees and hot enough to work, with .5 volt being the correct reading when you have the proper mixture for the front ones. The back ones will read much lower than that to indicate the cat is working. Most have just one sensor lead but if they are the 3 lead type and have heater elements make sure they aren't burned out and that they are getting 12 volts when running or they won't work.
Also you don't need to spend hundreds to replace O2 sensors, they all work the same but some have just 1 lead and others have 3-4 leads because they have a heating element. Just get the cheapest one you can find on ebay with or without heating element as needed. There are differences in the resistance rating of the heaters though, try and find one close to what you need as far as the ohms rating or it might draw too much current to heat up and overload the wiring.
 
You should get an O2 gauge and use it to check the O2 sensors. You can pick them up for about $20-$30 on ebay. They are also handy for tune ups to use to check for the correct mixture. You can also check the O2 sensors with a DVM if you know what to check for. A normal O2 sensor puts out 0-1 volt when it's heated up to about 700 degrees and hot enough to work, with .5 volt being the correct reading when you have the proper mixture for the front ones. The back ones will read much lower than that to indicate the cat is working. Most have just one sensor lead but if they are the 3 lead type and have heater elements make sure they aren't burned out and that they are getting 12 volts when running or they won't work.
Also you don't need to spend hundreds to replace O2 sensors, they all work the same but some have just 1 lead and others have 3-4 leads because they have a heating element. Just get the cheapest one you can find on ebay with or without heating element as needed. There are differences in the resistance rating of the heaters though, try and find one close to what you need as far as the ohms rating or it might draw too much current to heat up and overload the wiring.

I've already replaced both o2 sensors. That's why I want to pull the cat. That's my current question. What should I do AFTER replacing both sensors
 
Get on URD. They probably have something to help fool the ECU. that's really the only way to get the CEL to go away. Or go buy a STOCK cat. Like I said before, these trucks dont like it when you put aftermarket mufflers/cats on them. The computers are tuned for what the vehicle manufacture puts on them. Not aftermarket sh*t.
 
I've already replaced both o2 sensors. That's why I want to pull the cat. That's my current question. What should I do AFTER replacing both sensors
I would test all 4 sensors and not replace any unless they were really bad. You can test them off the vehicle if you need to using propane, Google it. On an older vehicle they are likely to be bad though. Then test the cats. You can look through them and see if they look OK, it's just a ceramic matrix with lots of small holes the exhaust goes through. They should be open so you can see through them and clean looking. If they are damaged they need to be replaced. Then you can test them like I said before, the rear O2 sensor should read lower than the front one and shouldn't even register anything much on an O2 meter.
 
Get on URD. They probably have something to help fool the ECU. that's really the only way to get the CEL to go away. Or go buy a STOCK cat. Like I said before, these trucks dont like it when you put aftermarket mufflers/cats on them. The computers are tuned for what the vehicle manufacture puts on them. Not aftermarket sh*t.

Thats what I'm thinking. What's URD? And is anyone familiar with ecu flashing? I think that may be my next step for my AM cat
 
I would test all 4 sensors and not replace any unless they were really bad. You can test them off the vehicle if you need to using propane, Google it. On an older vehicle they are likely to be bad though. Then test the cats. You can look through them and see if they look OK, it's just a ceramic matrix with lots of small holes the exhaust goes through. They should be open so you can see through them and clean looking. If they are damaged they need to be replaced. Then you can test them like I said before, the rear O2 sensor should read lower than the front one and shouldn't even register anything much on an O2 meter.

Both pre and post cat sensors are brand new.
 
URD is UnderDog Racing Development. They deal strictly Toyota stuff. From superchargers to fuel upgrades. They will have what you need to make it go away. I'm telling you man, the only way to get it to go away is to get a piggy back computer from them, or get a STOCK cat.
 
URD is UnderDog Racing Development. They deal strictly Toyota stuff. From superchargers to fuel upgrades. They will have what you need to make it go away. I'm telling you man, the only way to get it to go away is to get a piggy back computer from them, or get a STOCK cat.

Thank you. Considering a simulator
 

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