Catlytic Converter CA

mybenje

New member
Hello,

I have a 04 4th gen V8 SE with 112 K. I had a check engine light, indication P0420, indicating either bad O2 sensors or bad cat in bank1.
I did replace both O2 sensors, but the light still came back on. Now I am looking at replacing the CAT.
The OEM CAT is very expensive, my question is, Can I use an aftermarket CAT or a standard CAT, would that clear the code?
if someone have gone through this, your thoughts are very much appreciated. If I have to buy a CAT from a site that worked for someone, that would be great.

Thanks very much for your help,

:D
 
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Stupid question, but did you disconnect the battery for a time after replacing the O2 sensors?
 
P0420 can be a number of things ... bad sensor, bad cat, exhaust leak ...

for my 3rg gen, i replaced sensor and cat with a bosch and eastern cat and i still get P0420, but i also have a leak that i havent found yet. I can hear it though .....
 
Hello,

I have a 04 4th gen V8 SE with 112 K. I had a check engine light, indication P0420, indicating either bad O2 sensors or bad cat in bank1.
I did replace both O2 sensors, but the light still came back on. Now I am looking at replacing the CAT.
The OEM CAT is very expensive, my question is, Can I use an aftermarket CAT or a standard CAT, would that clear the code?
if someone have gone through this, your thoughts are very much appreciated. If I have to buy a CAT from a site that worked for someone, that would be great.

Thanks very much for your help,

:D

At about 50K the dealer replaced both cats under warranty. They said the the computer was very sensitive to the readings. I don't have much to substantiate but I think the aftermarket would surfice and you could clear the codes with a reader from autozone.
 
I work at a Toyota dealer in sale. I just bought a 2003 4runner v6 115k with check engine lite on. It has 2 codes...Po420 and P0430. I knew the codes were for cat. but I didn't want to pay for it. I was hoping it was 02 sensor or Mass airflow (which I did replaced and cleaned the old one)..lite came back after 40-50 miles. Mechanic at the dealer said it is almost always be cat. converter. One of the symtom was lack of power although not all the time. There are time where it won't accellerate pass 45 mph. I had cars in the past that needed cat. but runs fine. Not this one.

Anyhow, searching price online for aftermarket cat...runs about $597. As employee, I can save a little more with factory cat so I replaced both cat. yesterday and so far 120 miles, no engine lite yet.

Before that, I did used seafoams on engine and gas tank like some posts said but it didn't work for me.

This may not be what you want to know or hear but hope it helps some understand the problem.
 
Koob did you replace all of the 02 sensors or just the front? I have the same thing and I changed both the front but I dont fell any loss of power even at 45mph but two guys told to replace all 4 02sensors but I didnt But I am changing them tommorow and I hope it wont be the cats!
 
I had one of mine replaced at 200k. I took it to a muffler shop that was recommended that does several cat's a day. They used one that works on a 2002 model (i think) and replaced the oxygen sensor I believe for a total of $260!! It was the 1st one they have done for the 4th gen 4runner. It was the converter that is right behind the manifold on the drivers side.
 
I had one of mine replaced at 200k. I took it to a muffler shop that was recommended that does several cat's a day. They used one that works on a 2002 model (i think) and replaced the oxygen sensor I believe for a total of $260!! It was the 1st one they have done for the 4th gen 4runner. It was the converter that is right behind the manifold on the drivers side.

You have a 4th Gen with 200K on it??
 
2004 V6 4WD - almost 222k now. I'm in sales so I drive a lot:) still uses no oil and drives great. Search my threads and you'll see what work I've done to it.
 
FWIW I have never seen oxygen sensors fix a P0420 or P0430 code on a Toyota. I'm not saying it has never happened anywhere, but I've never seen it at my dealer. These codes indicate a failure of the converters. I can understand how some folks will guess at oxygen sensors as they are sometimes a fix in domestic cars and some other Japanese cars. Don't waste your money on oxygen sensors, and especially not aftermarket (non-Toyota) sensors as they typically do not last for very long.

As far as aftermarket cats, I have seen them turn the light off indefinitely, and I have seen them last anywhere from 6 months to 2 years before failing and the light comes back on. You can put an aftermarket cat on, but you are rolling the dice. Sometimes it works, and for a while. Sometimes it comes back on.

I'll put it this way, if you are going to sell the vehicle or it has super high mileage, you may want to way out the option of aftermarket over factory. If you are planning on keeping it for a while longer, I would put the Toyota part on it.

The failing converter will not harm the vehicle unless you drive it this way for years. It is an emissions component and the worst case scenario on the short term is a loss in gas mileage as the rear oxygen sensors report back to the ECM to change fuel mixture based on their readings. In some states (like NC) you are required a yearly inspection and the check engine light will cause an instant failure. In these states, replacement of the part and clearing the light will be required to pass inspection.

The type of gas you use can also shorten the life of your converter. Try to stay away from the "bargain" stations. I'm not sure what name brands there are out there but in my area, these are places like Sheetz, Eagles, BJ's, Costco, Sams Club, Walmart, Kroger (grocery stores). Pretty much anywhere that is a good bit cheaper than the competition or offers "frequent customer" plans that give discounts on gas. In my area the "name brand" places we recommend include BP, Exxon, Amaco, Texaco, Citgo, Shell, Phillips 66, and Sunoco. In an informal survey of my clients that have premature converter failure, more often than not they use the cheaper gas stations in an attempt to save a dollar or two. The trade off is that they end up having to replace their converters at the tune of up to $3500 in some cases for both.

Side note about filling up. Do NOT pump after the pump auto-shuts off. This includes trying to round up to the closest dollar, etc. When the pump shuts off, unless it is an error, stop fueling there. Attempting to pump every last drop the gas tank can hold can backfill the filler neck and travel through an evaporative line into the evaporative charcoal canister and ruin it. This is usually a $500-600 repair.

Hope this helps someone!

J
 

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