I feel it’s worth it if you plan on keeping the vehicle. I bought my black 19Z06 2 years ago and had it paint correction, fully wrapped with Suntex and ceramic coated. It was not cheap but I love how it’s so easy to keep clean especially being black. Don’t have to worry about scratches or chips. Swirl marks. I was going to have my 2020 AG pro done and decided to do it myself. But doing it a little different. Griots correction cream and there ceramic spray. It came out awesome. Neither vehicle is going anywhere. There both keepers.
Ceramic Coating, is it worth it??
- Thread starter Easydistracted
- Start date
Anonymous4Runner
New member
Just to add a friendly reminder, ceramic coating does not guarantee 100% protection from road chips, door dings or anything that'd make sudden contact with the paint. It's applied to make the paint more resistant (hardened) to anything that makes contact with the surface.
If you're speeding down the interstate at 80mph with a big rock bouncing off the tires on the shoulder from a semi trailer veering over the grooves, you can expect some sort of damage if it makes contact with the vehicle. If you're driving at low speeds, it'd take a lot just to chip the paint compared to a non ceramic coated vehicle to give you an idea of how ceramic coating works. It's applied in a way where it provides increased protection from low speeds or scratches with the paint from a shopping cart making contact with the vehicle. And there's the added bonus of less washes on the vehicle making it easy to maintain provided you keep up with coating maintenance.
Easydistracted
New member
NO KIDDING! I am pretty sure anyone with half a brain could figure that one out!
salsanacho
New member
I think my biggest obstacle with ceramic coating is the cure time. My garage is too full of crap to get my car in there, so finding a clean place to park it for a day or two will be tough. Anyone do the coating outside? I'm in San diego, so rain isn't usually an issue. Or was thinking of doing it in my office parking garage since it's empty due to Covid and there shouldn't be any cars kicking up dust that might adhere to the curing coating.
Glad you are happy with how it turned out! Sometimes you just have to follow what you think will be best for you.
Hi Salsa...I gave my truck to my installer on Friday and he gave it back to me Sunday afternoon. Let me know if you want me to put you in touch with him. He is in Carlsbad.
salsanacho
New member
Cool thanks, I'm going to try it myself this weekend. I already bought the Adam's line of products. Will leave it in my office parking garage overnight and see how that goes. If it doesn't go well, it'll wear off eventually and I can try it again!
Anonymous4Runner
New member
Or...have it professionally done where the environment is controlled.
salsanacho
New member
Sure, at 10x the cost...
Easydistracted
New member
Um, NO, not 10 times the cost! It was WELL worth it, and I will consider having another vehicle done. It's called a free market, and if the first place doesn't work you can shop around.
An environment that it can be done properly is key to having it last.
salsanacho
New member
You do you, I'll do me. We'll see how it turns out.
if you DIY it may be worth it.
i have a flex 3401 DA polisher and everything required to perform a "commerical grade detailing process"
ive performed a full decon process (ironx, clay), 2 step polishing process, applied LSP and carnuba wax top coat on the LSP
i passed on the ceramic due to the stringent dust control required for a "correct" application.
my opinion, is the LSP and a carnuba top coat is the ideal coating providing color depth and also that smooth as butter, wax feel on the back of your hand.
the full detailing process above takes several days (for me) on the 4R and lots of shoulder burn.
what actually provides the majority of the "improved look" of your paint, is everything PRIOR to applying the paint sealant /protection products.
the decon and polishing process (performs a "paint correction), removing impurities, swirling and minor scratches), the selant protection product, does add some depth/ shine but the majority of the improvement comes from the preparatiion steps.
performed the above process on 2013 camry which was dull paint condition, 4-5 years old and car looked "new condition" after completion.
the initial investment of tools, pads and products are paid for after 1 car, after that its just your time, energy and product consummables costs.
id recommend the DIY and having a DA polisher is valuable tool to have in your garage, pays for itself after 1 vehicle is polished
i have a flex 3401 DA polisher and everything required to perform a "commerical grade detailing process"
ive performed a full decon process (ironx, clay), 2 step polishing process, applied LSP and carnuba wax top coat on the LSP
i passed on the ceramic due to the stringent dust control required for a "correct" application.
my opinion, is the LSP and a carnuba top coat is the ideal coating providing color depth and also that smooth as butter, wax feel on the back of your hand.
the full detailing process above takes several days (for me) on the 4R and lots of shoulder burn.
what actually provides the majority of the "improved look" of your paint, is everything PRIOR to applying the paint sealant /protection products.
the decon and polishing process (performs a "paint correction), removing impurities, swirling and minor scratches), the selant protection product, does add some depth/ shine but the majority of the improvement comes from the preparatiion steps.
performed the above process on 2013 camry which was dull paint condition, 4-5 years old and car looked "new condition" after completion.
the initial investment of tools, pads and products are paid for after 1 car, after that its just your time, energy and product consummables costs.
id recommend the DIY and having a DA polisher is valuable tool to have in your garage, pays for itself after 1 vehicle is polished
Easydistracted
New member
I am the originator of the post! I have already had it done!
I have shown it to be 100% worth it. I don't have to prove a Damn thing. I own the fact that it speaks for itself. That's it!
salsanacho
New member
What are you talking about, i never ask you to prove anything. I literally said that I don't care what choices you make, those are your choices. You do you. :frusty:
Like I said, I don't dispute that a closed environment is better, but for the amount I want to spend on this, I'll do with the best I have at the moment.
:deadhorse:
ForRun
New member
I'm old and used Carnauba for many years. Synthetic has far surpassed anything I've seen. Once you try it and see, you won't look back! Check out meguires microfiber da compound and disks..it's a time and paint saver
i agree..thats why i use wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant.
i use liquid paint sealant as primary protection..the carnuba wax is just a topper (top coat)to make the paint more depth and shine
if you park your 4r is a garage, a high quality paint sealant will last past the normal benchmark of 6 months.
my last sealant application was in 2018 and my 4r is still beading here in 2020...
imo, nothing offers the color depth of carnuba wax.. theres always a place for carnuba as a top coat to the synthetic sealant, if you want the optimal color depth from your paint.
I have only used Carnuba wax on various cars as well as the new synthetics as well. I used the Carnuba on paints that did not have a metallic finishes and they look awesome but do not seem to hold up as long as the new synthetics. Some of these synethics go on so easier and seem to hold up a while. I have always been a firm believer of handwashing only and probably am a bit crazy. But we all have our hang ups i suppose
Dollar Retriever
New member
If it can make you feel comfortable and more relax, do it. Otherwise, not worth to spend that money. Your car don’t feel pain.
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