Change brake fluid?

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What is the color of the oil in the brake oil tank? If it is black, it is time to change it. I think 30 K is too early.
Since your truck has 192 K miles I think it is best to replace all the brake hoses at this time.
 
I don't remember the manual but at 190K it ought to be changed. The 01 has a more complicated brake system and water in brake fluid can really mess it up. I do mine every 2-3 years because it is fairly easy and a little insurance
 
I don't remember the manual but at 190K it ought to be changed. The 01 has a more complicated brake system and water in brake fluid can really mess it up. I do mine every 2-3 years because it is fairly easy and a little insurance

This is a good way of thinking.

Hydraulic fluids absorb water. When this happens they lose qualities they were designed for and can become corrosive.

An easy way of seeing is colour as mentioned. As soon as it starts to darken you should change it. It's relatively cheap and good preventative maintenance.

30miles is probably a bit on the short side, but keep an eye on colour and go from there, or look at what the manual says for first change and use that mileage to base any other ones off of.

For those with manual transmissions, your clutch fluid is the same way. It'll also improve feel.
 
Wow, thanks for all the inputs guys, The brake fluid is very light and transparent color.
What do you mean by hoses, which one. Can you tell me.
I never change hoses at all. Does anyone know ballpark how much to change the fluid and hoses
BTW, I like to DIY , is it kinda easy task if I can follow some kind of instruction?

Thanks
 
Wow, thanks for all the inputs guys, The brake fluid is very light and transparent color.
What do you mean by hoses, which one. Can you tell me.
I never change hoses at all. Does anyone know ballpark how much to change the fluid and hoses
BTW, I like to DIY , is it kinda easy task if I can follow some kind of instruction?

Thanks

Where ever there is a rubber hose in the system. To the best of my knowledge there is only three. One on each spindle/hub of the front wheels, and one from the body down to the rear axle.

I think hoses aren't terribly expensive. You might want to upgrade to steel braided which reduce expansion in the line creating better feel and a bit more power. In the vehicle they aren't really needed, but great on motorcycles.
 
brake fluid is cheap, and so is flushing it.
i believe the standard interval is about 40k. so, 30k may be a bit early but its not going to hurt anything.

and, just like engine oil, you cant go by the looks/color to determine if its bad.

there are test strips you can buy, but again brake fluid is cheap.
if you think about it, just have it flushed, and move on with your life.

also, if you let it go TOO long, you risk damaging other components in the brake system. these parts are not cheap.

ive changed a LOT of master cylinders over the years, due to old brake fluid.
 
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Every 2 years, so 30k is about right. Prevents corrosion in the lines.

Speedbleeders makes it a simple 15 min, 1 man job.
Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

Agreed. I love speed bleeders, they make it so easy. I put them on my 4runner and my motorcycle, totally worth it. Bleeding the whole thing takes about 30 minutes total, including setup and cleanup.

Where ever there is a rubber hose in the system. To the best of my knowledge there is only three. One on each spindle/hub of the front wheels, and one from the body down to the rear axle.

I think hoses aren't terribly expensive. You might want to upgrade to steel braided which reduce expansion in the line creating better feel and a bit more power. In the vehicle they aren't really needed, but great on motorcycles.

The rubber hoses are pretty easy to replace, assuming you don't have crap tons of rust like I do. SS are a bit pricey, I think I paid about $80 total for all 3 lines (3 front and 1 rear like shibby said). Google search them and you can find some cheap prices on them.

Regular DOT3 or above is fine.
 
Regular DOT3 or above is fine.

Not all DOT ratings are able to be mixed with with each other. DOT 5.0 and 5.1 are significantly different and one can't be used with others.

Always match what the manual or cap suggests. No point in paying more for a higher rating when it's not required.
 
i went with one of these those those things nelson mentioned are pretty cool, that said, i went with the might vac as it does a number of jobs and i like having tools and i didn't have anything like this so i figured why not.
Mityvac Vacuum Pump - Save on Mityvac Pumps at Harbor Freight!

$30 from HF and allows you to do the job yourself.
image_17337.jpg
 
I have one of those too for motorcycles. The back clip broke on mine and now I have to use a clamp on it. lol.

I've been meaning to pick up a good metal one when they go on sale. They work great though. Especially on bikes that have finicky brake systems (KTM, Aprilia)
 
I have one of those too for motorcycles. The back clip broke on mine and now I have to use a clamp on it. lol.

I've been meaning to pick up a good metal one when they go on sale. They work great though. Especially on bikes that have finicky brake systems (KTM, Aprilia)

The metal one from HF did the same thing to me. I bought a new clip for it and it worked for a while, then the whole thing exploded in my hand (seriously, or rather imploded). Now I just use speed bleeders.

Izzard, I like the speed bleeders for the opposite reason, I don't have a real garage, so it is nice that I don't need to store another tool. To each his own though, they both have their advantages.
 
As mentioned above, brake fluid is hydrophillic (absorbs water) and that water will corrode the internals of the brake system. So when the calipers seize up and the pistons wont retract properly, that's why. For 45 minutes of work and $5 for a Qt of dot 3 fluid, its well worth the effort. 2-3 years regardless of miles is a good time frame. I've switched my vehicles to ATE Blue/Gold fluid which is Dot4 and compatible with our brake systems. It's $20/L but well worth the money.

+1 for Speed Bleeders FYI you can get a two pack of speed bleeders for $7 at www.rockauto.com 50% less than parts stroes.

ATE Blue Brake fluid
 
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I'm doing the TBU this weekend & bought a quart of Dot 4. I'm pretty sure the t4r has DOT 3 in there. Should I/Could I mix them? Or should I drain it all & use DOT 4 only & go buy another quart?
Thanks,
 
I'm doing the TBU this weekend & bought a quart of Dot 4. I'm pretty sure the t4r has DOT 3 in there. Should I/Could I mix them? Or should I drain it all & use DOT 4 only & go buy another quart?
Thanks,

You can mix them but you will lower the boiling point of the DOT 4.........best to drain and refill.
 
1997&1998 Runner Speed Bleeder

Hey guys does anyone know the part numbers for the speed bleeders I need for my 97 & 98? Thanks
 

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