changing diff,tranny,and transfer oil

doylee4693

New member
was just wondering exactly what oils im going to need to do this with,im gonna get it serviced at an independent mechanic but I need to know what oils to bring to him.I will be getting them at autozone.also is it costly in labor to change all these fluids?i have a 2.7 5-speed if that helps any.thanks
 
Register to hide this ad
I would say don't pay for labor for the diff or transfer case oil, they are just as if not easier to change than your engine oil.

Never done the tranny fluid, but I think for the manuals it is just the same gear oil as the diffs and transfer case, so is probably just as easy. Not sure about that though, I have the auto sadly.

I think you use 70W-90 or 80W-90 all around.
 
I run Mobil 1 75w90 in the diffs and transfercase, you'll need about 5 quarts to do that. I run Redline MT90 in the manual trans, its a little more expensive but its worth it in the end.
 
ok i will be using mobil 1 75w90 for the diffs and trans case.I cant wait to just get this done,i'm pretty sure the previous owner never changed the diff oils or transfer oil,just motor oil.is the tranny fluid easy to get to,should i change that also while i'm at it?what oil type will i need for that?i cant find anything about specific oils in my owners man.
 
FSM says to use new washers on all these plugs. That's overkill, but I made a note last time not to push mine any further. I have pulled tranny plugs on other cars not maintained by me and seen the washer break in half. So you might consider buying a set if you are not sure yours have not been on there forever.

These plugs can be a pain to crack, especially rear diff--easy to round off. Use a six-point (24mm I think) socket and maybe a shot of PB Blaster the night before. A quick shot with the hammer doesn't hurt. Front diff takes a 12mm (10mm on some models) hex. A socket hex beats heck out of an L-shaped hex key for this. I put anti-seize on the plug threads last time so I'm hoping for an easy time this spring when I'm due.
 
Last edited:
ya buy a good 6 point 15/16th socket to do it, i learned the hard way several years ago and had to buy a bunch of new plugs for the truck after i had to use a air hammer with a chisel to break them loose
 
Beating a dead horse.

Just to make certain I'm getting exactly what I need to perform this properly, this is what I'm thinking of buying:

- 3 Qts of Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil for the Manual Tranny (Uses 2.3 Qts)
- 5 Qts of either Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W90 or Mobil1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-90 for the Diffs & T-Case (Uses Front 1.2 Qts + Rear 2.6 Qts + Diff 1.1 Qts)

Can someone confirm I'm good to go?
 
FSM says to use new washers on all these plugs. That's overkill, but I made a note last time not to push mine any further. I have pulled tranny plugs on other cars not maintained by me and seen the washer break in half. So you might consider buying a set if you are not sure yours have not been on there forever.

These plugs can be a pain to crack, especially rear diff--easy to round off. Use a six-point (24mm I think) socket and maybe a shot of PB Blaster the night before. A quick shot with the hammer doesn't hurt. Front diff takes a 12mm (10mm on some models) hex. A socket hex beats heck out of an L-shaped hex key for this. I put anti-seize on the plug threads last time so I'm hoping for an easy time this spring when I'm due.

ok sounds good but where would I get the washers at,can i get them at the harware store or do i have to order them.if so where do i fing them and how much are they?thanks all for the info it's very helpful
 
if theres no washers on it right now and its not leaking any fluid at all youll be alright reinstalling the plugs without. You could just put the washers you have on the drain plugs then you could always ad washers to the fill plugs easily later on, not that they are needed though.

And i would buy the mobil over the royal purple, there oil is garbage imo.
 
To each his own. I prefer to use the washers but that's me. Here are the torques and part numbers:

Transfer Case Fill Gasket 90430-18008 27 Ft-Lb
Transfer Case Drain Gasket 90430-18008 27 Ft-Lb
Front Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010 29 Ft-Lb
Front Differential Drain Gasket 90430-24003 48 Ft-Lb
Rear Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010 36 Ft-Lb
Rear Differential Drain Gasket 12157-10010 36 Ft-Lb

Credit to Elton posting these.

They are a dealer item or online at toyotapartszone.com and others. Like $1.50 each. I'll swap mine at 150K--they are original--so I don't consider it a brutal expense. I would rather use none, than use an iffy one. Some have posted that dealers don't use them or ever replace them. And yes, use the good ones you have on drain and take your chances on the fill.

If you really want cheap, measure them and go here for generic aluminum:

http://www.cgenterprises.com/gasket_size_cross.htm
 
Last edited:
ya buy a good 6 point 15/16th socket to do it, i learned the hard way several years ago and had to buy a bunch of new plugs for the truck after i had to use a air hammer with a chisel to break them loose

Its metric, use a 6 point 24mm.

Just to make certain I'm getting exactly what I need to perform this properly, this is what I'm thinking of buying:

- 3 Qts of Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil for the Manual Tranny (Uses 2.3 Qts)
- 5 Qts of either Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W90 or Mobil1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-90 for the Diffs & T-Case (Uses Front 1.2 Qts + Rear 2.6 Qts + Diff 1.1 Qts)

Can someone confirm I'm good to go?

That should do it for ya.
 
FSM says to use new washers on all these plugs. That's overkill, but I made a note last time not to push mine any further. I have pulled tranny plugs on other cars not maintained by me and seen the washer break in half. So you might consider buying a set if you are not sure yours have not been on there forever.

These plugs can be a pain to crack, especially rear diff--easy to round off. Use a six-point (24mm I think) socket and maybe a shot of PB Blaster the night before. A quick shot with the hammer doesn't hurt. Front diff takes a 12mm (10mm on some models) hex. A socket hex beats heck out of an L-shaped hex key for this. I put anti-seize on the plug threads last time so I'm hoping for an easy time this spring when I'm due.

Thats good info, on some models the front uses a 10mm hex for the fill and a 12mm hex for the drain.
 
OEM Parts List : Gaskets & Washers

I stopped by my local dealership today and purchased all of the gaskets and crush washers needed to perform this job. The following is a list, to include the quantity [x] of each:

- [4] 90430-18008
- [3] 12457-10010
- [1] 90430-24003
- [1] 90430-12028

The funny thing is while there are four unique part numbers, there are only three unique parts. The parts guy assured me this was the case. Perhaps one of the part numbers is superseded by the other? Anyway, this is what they look like:

t4rgaskets.jpg
 
wow thanks for the pics,how much did they cost you at the dealership?it's the same plugs for the 2.7 as the 3.4 right.im supposed to get my fluids changed within the next few hours.should I do it without the gaskets and washers.my truck year and model is in sig.thanks
 
wow thanks for the pics,how much did they cost you at the dealership?it's the same plugs for the 2.7 as the 3.4 right.im supposed to get my fluids changed within the next few hours.should I do it without the gaskets and washers.my truck year and model is in sig.thanks

You'll be fine without em.
 
I just bought a bunch last time I ordered parts online. For about $10-15 you can get a couple of each and be set for life with on-hand parts.
 
wow thanks for the pics,how much did they cost you at the dealership?it's the same plugs for the 2.7 as the 3.4 right.im supposed to get my fluids changed within the next few hours.should I do it without the gaskets and washers.my truck year and model is in sig.thanks

The same? Probably, but I am in no way certain. I'd have a hard time believing that the 4wd running gear is different. The washer for the engine oil drain plug is a maybe as it stands to reason it could have changed between different motors.

I spend $12 total, so a small price to pay for the peace of mind.
 
Last edited:
The same? Probably, but I am in no way certain. I'd have a hard time believing that the 4wd running gear is different. The washer for the engine oil drain plug is a maybe as it stands to reason it could have changed between different motors.

According to the site I posted earlier in the thread, ALL Toyotas built from 1993 to date use the same oil plug and seal. I wonder if there is anything else standard across the line like that.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,068
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top