Changing rear U-joint (I'm stuck)

[War Sprout]

I think I have everything I need to replace the rear U-joint closest to the rear axle. I plan on making a DIY when I'm done, because I haven't seen one yet on this site, I just need to get through this one first.

I know that the joint's need to line up like this:

But I don't know how to get it off. Am I on the right track starting with these 4 14mm fasteners?

Any help is appreciated.

:noidea:

 

[shootmymime]

CAUTION. Chalk the wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling. Also apply the parking brake.

Yes take those off. It should drop down then the output shaft should slide out of the Xcase. Take it to a work bench to knock out the joints.

There is a snap ring that holds the joints in. Remove both on ether side then smack with a hammer and joint should move. It's just the same as other joints on YouTube. If you have any questions on this part just yourube it. Drive shafts are easy.

 

[satek]

CAUTION. Chalk the wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling. Also apply the parking brake.

Yes take those off. It should drop down then the output shaft should slide out of the Xcase. Take it to a work bench to knock out the joints.

There is a snap ring that holds the joints in. Remove both on ether side then smack with a hammer and joint should move. It's just the same as other joints on YouTube. If you have any questions on this part just yourube it. Drive shafts are easy.

Yes, it's EXTREMELY important to chalk the wheels. I remember I forgot and my 4runner almost hit my garage door.

Also, make a line across both the drive shaft and the axle thingie so when you put it back together, you can line them up.

 

[War Sprout]

Yeah... about that. I sprayed it with liquid wrench and used a little muscle and they came right off. I have a bigger problem, though. It turns out that the rear-most U-joint isn't the culprit. This one is:

:jaw: It completely snapped! I have no idea I how I was still able to drive it.

EDIT: Wheels were already chalked before I started. Thanks for the heads-up, though.

 

[02SE]

Yes take those off. It should drop down then the output shaft should slide out of the Xcase. Take it to a work bench to knock out the joints.

Just for the sake of accuracy, a 4wd 4Runner does not have a slip-yoke at the transfer case. It has a flange retained by four bolts, just like the flange at the pinion flange.

This flange can be seen in his second pic.

 

[TheDurk]

Just for the sake of accuracy, a 4wd 4Runner does not have a slip-yoke at the transfer case. It has a flange retained by four bolts, just like the flange at the pinion flange.

This flange can be seen in his second pic.

Sorry to be picky, but you like accuracy: they are nuts on studs, not four bolts. DON'T mess them up--those studs are not available from Toyota and as they are M11-1.25 nothing aftermarket either.

Ask me how I know.

 

[02SE]

You are correct. I should have referred to them as nuts and studs.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah... about that. I sprayed it with liquid wrench and used a little muscle and they came right off. I have a bigger problem, though. It turns out that the rear-most U-joint isn't the culprit. This one is:

:jaw: It completely snapped! I have no idea I how I was still able to drive it.

EDIT: Wheels were already chalked before I started. Thanks for the heads-up, though.

That is the double cardan joint. That sucks that that broke because that isn't as easy as the rear u-joint. It is not intended to be a serviceable part, so you might start looking for a new/used driveshaft you can just bolt on.

If you can't find a good deal on a drive shaft, then you might be able to replace the joints in the double cardan, but they aren't normal sizes. Search this forum for the u joints in the double cardan, someone posted a while back on replacing those, and he listed some PN's that he used and some method of modification to make them fit. That might be your only other choice.

If I were you, I'd hit up the nearest couple salvage yards for a drive shaft just so you can get this done quickly. Replacing the joint will probably take some time during which you'll not be able to drive much.

 

[War Sprout]

That is the double cardan joint. That sucks that that broke because that isn't as easy as the rear u-joint. It is not intended to be a serviceable part, so you might start looking for a new/used driveshaft you can just bolt on.

If you can't find a good deal on a drive shaft, then you might be able to replace the joints in the double cardan, but they aren't normal sizes. Search this forum for the u joints in the double cardan, someone posted a while back on replacing those, and he listed some PN's that he used and some method of modification to make them fit. That might be your only other choice.

If I were you, I'd hit up the nearest couple salvage yards for a drive shaft just so you can get this done quickly. Replacing the joint will probably take some time during which you'll not be able to drive much.

:redbrick:

 

[War Sprout]

For the double cardan joint, are the holes threaded where they accept the bolts?

 

[Nelsonmd]

For the double cardan joint, are the holes threaded where they accept the bolts?

No, those are threaded studs with nuts on them. The DS flange just slides on.

Don't stress about it until you find out how much a DS at a salvage yard will cost. I wouldn't think it'd be THAT much.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Even though it is for a Tacoma, the owner had the same result:
Double Cardan U-joint Teardown '02 Tacoma - YotaTech Forums

try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market for one close by. Or a drive line shop can do the work, but it will not be too cheap.

 

[shootmymime]

Just for the sake of accuracy, a 4wd 4Runner does not have a slip-yoke at the transfer case. It has a flange retained by four bolts, just like the flange at the pinion flange.

This flange can be seen in his second pic.

oh, thats right, it was the jeep that has that. and of course we can all understand why i thought that. jeeps always need to be worked on.

 

[I_bRAD]

Sorry to be picky, but you like accuracy:

As long as we're being picky and accurate, you need to chock the wheels. Drawing a nice picture on them ain't gonna stop it from rolling!

 

[Nelsonmd]

So this may be doable after all without modifications. I just found this thread over on tacomaworld that lists the right part numbers for this fix. It is still much more complicated than a normal U-joint, but it is doable.

Double Cardan joint - Tacoma World Forums

 

[shootmymime]

As long as we're being picky and accurate, you need to chock the wheels. Drawing a nice picture on them ain't gonna stop it from rolling!

well that escalated quickly.

 

[War Sprout]

Update: Bought a used drive-shaft from NissanH, but I can't get mine off. I marked everything for removal, wheels chocked, and disconnected the end that connects to the rear transfer case, but the front seems like it's glued in! I can't get it off. Any suggestions or advice?

 

[nevada]

Update: Bought a used drive-shaft from NissanH, but I can't get mine off. I marked everything for removal, wheels chocked, and disconnected the end that connects to the rear transfer case, but the front seems like it's glued in! I can't get it off. Any suggestions or advice?

its a tight fit in the flange. use a pry bar, or hammer, maybe even a tiny chisel on the seam, to split it. it will come off.

 

[War Sprout]

Worked! Back on the road again, thanks to NissanH for the driveshaft.

 

[nissanh]

Thanks!

Worked! Back on the road again, thanks to NissanH for the driveshaft.

Just grease the drive shaft every 5000 miles on road and Everyday after an off road trip.