Changing to Synthetic Oil Question

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AE1M

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I have a 2008 6cyl with 150K miles. I have changed the oil 26 times, always used Penzoil 5W30 conventional and OEM filter. This vehicle has been totally dependable, never any kind of major problem. So easy to change the oil with the filter on top!

Went to Walmart, local store no longer carries conventional oil! Lots of fully synthetic brands.

Anyone have experience moving to synthetic? Is this something that we can do? Any actual examples of problems? What viscosity should I use and is the OEM filter still OK? Any word from Toyota on doing this?

Or, should I just bite the bullet and pay auto specialty store oil prices and stick with conventional?

Thanks,
Bob
 
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AE1M said:
I have a 2008 6cyl with 150K miles. I have changed the oil 26 times, always used Penzoil 5W30 conventional and OEM filter. This vehicle has been totally dependable, never any kind of major problem. So easy to change the oil with the filter on top!

Went to Walmart, local store no longer carries conventional oil! Lots of fully synthetic brands.

Anyone have experience moving to synthetic? Is this something that we can do? Any actual examples of problems? What viscosity should I use and is the OEM filter still OK? Any word from Toyota on doing this?

Or, should I just bite the bullet and pay auto specialty store oil prices and stick with conventional?

Thanks,
Bob
Click to expand...

Switched to synthetic around 208k last summer. Now at 232k no issues. When I switched, I was using Shell Rotella Gas Truck Synthetic 5w-30, but they stopped carrying that at walmart. Now I use the Supertech Advanced Synthetic 5w-30.

Keep using the OEM filter. Those are a good choice
 
Recommend going to full synthetic - it’s what I’ve used since I’ve had mine. Some anecdotes that people get a little leak but the leak was probably already there and the synthetic which is a little “looser” just seeps. I wouldn’t expect any issues. Most car experts recommend using synthetic
 
As others have said, despite the "bro-science" you'll find on the internet, switching between synthetic and conventional shouldn't be a problem. I switched fairly early in my 2UZ's life since the cost to DIY with synthetic was only a couple of bucks more than conventional. Not a big deal in the grand scheme of things, cost wise. I also don't bother with the so called "high-mileage oils" even though I'm at 172,000 now, FWIW.

FWIW, some folks over at bobistheoilguy suggest that Pennzoil Conventional (PYB) has been a synthetic blend for some time. It looks like with the introduction of Pennzoil Full Synthetic, Pennzoil is aiming to phase out the PYB conventional offering entirely. From their marketing literature, they intend to maintain the Platinum and Ultra-Platinum lines along with this relatively new Full Synthetic offering. There's also a separate Platinum Euro for cars needing oils with BMW/VW/M-B specific certifications.

Filters don't care about the oil you use. :-) The OEM filter has done well in testing. Personally, I always use either Purolator's One or Boss filter (Bosch synthetic media, IIRC) based on their combination of flow and filtering performance in various filter tests. Advance usually runs monthly oil change specials that combine a synthetic 5qt jug with a filter for about the same costs as getting the oil from Walmart and the filter somewhere else. Amazon also has pretty decent pricing on oil and filters if you want to save yourself the trip entirely.

HTH.
 
As i understand it its not good to switch to synthetic on a high mileage cars that's been using regular oil. That said it seems to not be an issue.

I switched over from regular oil to synthetic then back to regular on my Acura, and though it was the first car i had a motor issue with, it didn't die till 300k.
 
I plan to switch my 08 V6 to full synthetic at the next oil change, the first with me. 82k miles right now. I believe the previous changes were done with either conventional, or blend at the dealer with the previous owner.

I'm going with Castrol edge 5w-30. Not going with high mileage for the time being.

Been running Valvoline maxlife 5w-30 high mileage in my 2001 3rd gen for the last 140k miles. It has 282k miles now. That's a blend and I've been happy with it in there.

From my reading the last couple weeks you shouldn't have any issues switching to synthetic. If you have issues after the switch it is more due to poor timing and a problem that was already there.

If you're the original owner or know the history of the car and that it has been maintained well I'd make the switch with confidence.
 
You could just keep on going with conventional oil (other than your usual place doesn't carry it). It's not really an issue at all. The #1 and 2 issues BY FAR for ANY oil is.... changing it regularly. And using the correct viscosity. Period. The thing you can possibly benefit from with synthetic is longer change intervals. Switching is no issue. There used to be questions about that but it was just BS info on the web (shocking, I know). The only thing that makes it synthetic is that the molecule size is engineered to be uniform. Otherwise it's just oil.

I've been using synthetic since day 1. I used to get it a wally world since it's so cheap there, but auto zone and advance aren't much more in my area so I go there. I loathe walmart and try to stay as far away as possible.
 
y=mx+b said:
Switched to synthetic around 208k last summer. Now at 232k no issues. When I switched, I was using Shell Rotella Gas Truck Synthetic 5w-30, but they stopped carrying that at walmart. Now I use the Supertech Advanced Synthetic 5w-30.

Keep using the OEM filter. Those are a good choice
Click to expand...

I use this same exact combo, oil & filter, and I've had no issues with 3 changes. If I remember right, some of the Walmarts carry OEM filters, too.
 
I have gone with Valvoline Full Synthetic 5-30W and use the OEM filter with no problems. In fact, I've changed the front and rear differentials and the transmission to synthetic. Watch for oil leaks after changing over the engine oil to synthetic. Other car makers have had problems with leaks but Toyota must have better seals/gaskets as I've never heard anyone complain about leaks after switching over.
 
AE1M said:
Anyone have experience moving to synthetic? Is this something that we can do? Any actual examples of problems? What viscosity should I use and is the OEM filter still OK?
Click to expand...

I bought a '98 4Runner with 140k mi in 2007. I immediately switched to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W30, ("15,000 miles of guaranteed protection") and Mobil 1 Extended Performance M1-102A oil filter. In spite of other warnings to continue with specified change intervals, I changed oil and filter every 15,000 miles, trusting Mobil 1 over the "experts." I recently traded off the '98 for my '07; in 14 years having the '98, I never had to add oil between 15k oil changes. I bought my '09 in 2017, and did the same with the same oil and filter, and I likewise have never needed to add oil between changes.

I first started using Mobil 1 synthetic in my '85 Corvette. I turns out that they specified Mobil 1 synthetic as the required oil. My friend's '84 Corvette did not specify synthetic and came with a separate oil cooler behind the radiator. It turns out that Corvette dropped the oil cooler in favor of requiring synthetic oil because synthetic oil has a full 100 °F higher break-down temperature than regular motor oil. If it is good for Corvettes, it is good for 4Runners, and I like changing the oil only once every 15k miles.
 
walmart still sells normal conventional oils, at least all the ones in the midwest do & so do other auto parts stores like auto zone. the valvoline white bottle is conventional, although with todays standards for synthetic some may consider it a group3 synthetic.

Walmart Grocery

also the high mile oils like valvoline maxlife & other brands are semi synthetic or a "blend" of conv & synthetic & at your mileage they might be the best option to condition the seals & gaskets to prevent any possible future leaks. HM oils are priced in the middle of conv & synthetics so if you dont care about long extended intervals or do heavy towing etc, maxlife oil may be the best choice... & HM oils are all excellent oils & dont cause any damage or issues as some internet myths out there might claim.

i also agree synthetic wont cause oil leaks, it might find existing bad gaskets or clean sludge & crap that has blocked a bad gasket, but on the majority of 4th gen toyota engines, there shouldnt be any leaks by switching.

there was a former member on here, that blamed synthetic for causing some "drips" from his engine... but after changing back to conventional oil he still has drips, proving it wasnt the oils fault, yet he has never tried to locate the cause, just blames the synthetic oil & thinks its "cheap" over rated stuff. but then again he uses T-IV trans fluid in his 2005 WS sealed trans. :crazy:
 
Too Stroked said:
Another false internet rumor. Synthetic oil in and by itself does not cause leaks.
Click to expand...

That is true...BUT if you have been running regular oil and you switch to synthetic you can find that the synthetic oil may slip by a seal that regular oil won't. I know first hand. I had 05 Rubicon that I switched over to synthetic and the rear main seal started to leak. I switched back to regular oil and no more leak. It does happen.

Synthetic oil does not cause the leak. Some seals/gaskets may not be made for synthetic oil or the seal could be deteriorating.

Again, I've never heard of anyone switching over to synthetic in a 4runner and having a leak. I would like to think our vehicles are of a higher quality.
 
there was a former member on here, that blamed synthetic for causing some "drips" from his engine... but after changing back to conventional oil he still has drips, proving it wasnt the oils fault, yet he has never tried to locate the cause, just blames the synthetic oil & thinks its "cheap" over rated stuff. but then again he uses T-IV trans fluid in his 2005 WS sealed trans. :crazy:[/QUOTE]

Lol, yes, Captsolo (banned) and now goes by FordF150...what a hoot he is. Living proof that island life and too much sun is not conducive to rational thinking.
 
It’s a fact that worn out seals can leak with low weight synthetic after running their lives on cheap dino oil. It happened to my 1992 GTI.

That said, I’ve changed over other high mileage cars and they had no seal leaks. These others were all after the GTI, so I’m obviously not scared to keep doing it.

If your seals start leaking, you were in pretty bad shape anyway. That’s my $.02.
 
I picked up my truck a couple months ago with 170k on the clock. Last fill it got before I bought it was Toyota dino oil at the dealer. Got that out as fast as I could and put in Penzoil Ultra Platinum. I can't quantify it but the motor does appear to be quieter and does appear to have a bit more power when I take it up to 7000 feet.

No leaks yet.
 
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