Cheap Diff Lock Options

Inv4drZm

Inv4drZm

Senior Member
I've lately been thinking about getting a rear diff locker for my T4R. Should I wait and regear at the same time? Getting 35s for my V8. Been browsing ebay and local and Denver craigslists (Denver's has all the good offroad parts!)

This ad got me thinking: https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/5475419871.html

I could pick up a used elocked 3rd for $300 and keep its 3.73 gears for now. Is the wiring difficult to add an elocker? I know I would have to mod the housing for this but could I do all of it myself? Would I have to set the gear mesh?
I can't spend $2000 on gears and lockers right now. Or should I save the money and hassle, use ATRAC.

What are your thoughts?
 
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When are you going to 35's? In a few months or in a few years? If it's soon, then eliminate some hassle and regear and diff lock at the same time. If it is going to be awhile then do the diff lock now if you want.

I wouldn't buy a used elocker that needs rebuilding or a new pinion bearing though. If the pinion bearing is bad you will probably want to service the whole diff and if you are doing that you might as well regear it when you have it torn apart.

Wiring won't be hard if you are ok with that sort of thing. Not sure if this will work for all Toyota elockers but Slee sells a module that could make the wiring easier.
Slee - Electrical Switches

My 2 cents...
 
Does it come with the entire axle housing? You can't put an E locker in a non elocker housing. Unless you cut out the notch for it.
 
I'd find a 4.10 e locker and a matching 8" 4.10 front from a taco. Cheapest way to regear. It's about right for the v8.
 
i did my elocker retrofit and kept the 3.73s. ill be doing 4.56s this summer to help out with these 35s i just put on. the wiring isnt hard at all. 12voltguy and lowrange both sell plug and play harnesses with switches. lowrange also sells all the parts needed to do the retrofit such as the new studs, nuts, paper gasket to use as a templet, and a really nice 8mm drill bit and tap set that i used. i plan to just send both my elocker 3rd and clamshell to ECGS. you could always get the elocker and send the core to ECGS and have them regear it with new bearings and seals and a solid rear spacer. then once you get it back and are doing the mods to make it fit and work like it needs to just pull the front and send it in to get the same gears with new bearings and a solid spacer.
 
JimInTN said:
I'd find a 4.10 e locker and a matching 8" 4.10 front from a taco. Cheapest way to regear. It's about right for the v8.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies guys.

Would a 4.30 be better? Looks like these came with the 3rd gen 4Runners with auto tranny's. If you think they would fit, I might keep my eye out for one at salvage yards or online. I'd probably still have them rebuilt, but it would be nice to just drop in a 4.30 clamshell and locked 3rd, and sell mine.

Edit: The 3rd gens used a 7.5" front diff. and not the 8". Nevermind :(
 
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Inv4drZm said:
Thanks for the replies guys.

Would a 4.30 be better? Looks like these came with the 3rd gen 4Runners with auto tranny's. If you think they would fit, I might keep my eye out for one at salvage yards or online. I'd probably still have them rebuilt, but it would be nice to just drop in a 4.30 clamshell and locked 3rd, and sell mine.

Edit: The 3rd gens used a 7.5" front diff. and not the 8". Nevermind :(
Click to expand...

yep cant find a 4.30 8" clamshell R&P. HOWEVER with the new tacomas being geared with 3.90s and 4.30 ratios from the factory it probably wont be long till we start seeing 4.30 ratios for the 8" clamshell. i give it 6months to a year max

NINJA edit: i would jump all over that elocker 3rd dude. event if you have to sit on it for 6 months 300 bucks for a elocker with actuator is damn good. i got mine for 330 and all the others at the time were going for 500+ with the actuator
 
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CruzadoBlanco said:
yep cant find a 4.30 8" clamshell R&P. HOWEVER with the new tacomas being geared with 3.90s and 4.30 ratios from the factory it probably wont be long till we start seeing 4.30 ratios for the 8" clamshell. i give it 6months to a year max

NINJA edit: i would jump all over that elocker 3rd dude. event if you have to sit on it for 6 months 300 bucks for a elocker with actuator is damn good. i got mine for 330 and all the others at the time were going for 500+ with the actuator
Click to expand...

Buy a rear 4.10 elocked 3rd for $600: https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/5468669065.html
And a front 4.10 carrier assembly for $300: 05 10 11 12 13 14 15 Toyota Tacoma Carrier Assembly Front Axle 4 10 Ratio | eBay

  • Looking at $1300 for a regear with elocker after shop labor I guess.
    Once I sell my diffs for $500 locally then $800 total?
  • Versus sticking with stock gearing and just dropping in a elocked 3rd will set me back $400 maybe with a good deal.

First option sounds more cost effective if its possible. But do I really need to regear with the 35s and would 4.10s suffice?
 
Inv4drZm said:
Buy a rear 4.10 elocked 3rd for $600: https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/5468669065.html
And a front 4.10 carrier assembly for $300: 05 10 11 12 13 14 15 Toyota Tacoma Carrier Assembly Front Axle 4 10 Ratio | eBay

  • Looking at $1300 for a regear with elocker after shop labor I guess.
    Once I sell my diffs for $500 locally then $800 total?
  • Versus sticking with stock gearing and just dropping in a elocked 3rd will set me back $400 maybe with a good deal.

First option sounds more cost effective if its possible. But do I really need to regear with the 35s and would 4.10s suffice?
Click to expand...

yes you need to regear with 35s. mine definitely is dogging around compared to the 33s. and 4.10s is not deep enough to spend the money on it. 4.30 would be stock rpms, but since your wheels and tires are gonna be about 100lbs a piece youre gonna want to up you rpms a little (~200-250) so 4.56s are ideal for 35s.
 
CruzadoBlanco said:
yes you need to regear with 35s. mine definitely is dogging around compared to the 33s. and 4.10s is not deep enough to spend the money on it. 4.30 would be stock rpms, but since your wheels and tires are gonna be about 100lbs a piece youre gonna want to up you rpms a little (~200-250) so 4.56s are ideal for 35s.
Click to expand...

Really? Mine isn't that bad with the new 35" Toyo RT's I am running, that's including a full bumper and skid plates and a 5th full sized wheel and tire in the back. It's not speedy, but it's hardly a dog; it towed the uHaul fine up to Oregon.
 
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CruzadoBlanco said:
yes you need to regear with 35s. mine definitely is dogging around compared to the 33s. and 4.10s is not deep enough to spend the money on it. 4.30 would be stock rpms, but since your wheels and tires are gonna be about 100lbs a piece youre gonna want to up you rpms a little (~200-250) so 4.56s are ideal for 35s.
Click to expand...

35s are more expensive then I thought.:sobbing:
[MENTION=101553]t-man[/MENTION] how is it like with 35s and stock gearing?

So now its looking like the "cheapest" route for 4.56 and elocker:

$700 4.56 front rebuilt clamshell from ECGS or similiar cost locally to get mine rebuilt
$400 3.73 elocked 3rd/wiring module
$350 to have 3rd converted to 4.56 gears

$1500
 
Inv4drZm said:
35s are more expensive then I thought.:sobbing:
[MENTION=101553]t-man[/MENTION] how is it like with 35s and stock gearing?

So now its looking like the "cheapest" route for 4.56 and elocker:

$700 4.56 front rebuilt clamshell from ECGS or similiar cost locally to get mine rebuilt
$400 3.73 elocked 3rd/wiring module
$350 to have 3rd converted to 4.56 gears

$1500
Click to expand...
Honestly, I don't have a single issue with stock gearing and 35's. My tire and wheel combo is really heavy too @108lbs each. About the only time I notice gearing is in sandy Hill climbs. I usually put it in 4lo to keep from bogging down. I even tow a work trailer without issues. I wouldn't worry about it at first if I was you. Gear it later if you still want.
My tires are $1040 from discount tire direct for all 4.
 
t-man said:
Honestly, I don't have a single issue with stock gearing and 35's. My tire and wheel combo is really heavy too @108lbs each. About the only time I notice gearing is in sandy Hill climbs. I usually put it in 4lo to keep from bogging down. I even tow a work trailer without issues. I wouldn't worry about it at first if I was you. Gear it later if you still want.
My tires are $1040 from discount tire direct for all 4.
Click to expand...

4? Whats your plan for a flat?
 
BlackWorksInc said:
Really? Mine isn't that bad with the new 35" Toyo RT's I am running, that's including a full bumper and skid plates and a 5th full sized wheel and tire in the back. It's not speedy, but it's hardly a dog; it towed the uHaul fine up to Oregon.
Click to expand...

its not horrendous like me jeep was with 35s before i regeared it to 4.88s but its definitely noticeable. for city driving its fine but i know once i get on a highway with any decent hill climb its gonna be down shift city. and i just want want to get a solid spacer in there instead of the crush sleeve so i dont have what happened to Tman happen to me. at least i think it was Tman that had his R&P grenade
 
What vehicles are the 3.73 elocker 3rds found in? 2009 4th gens with the elockers and V8: what else, any tacos?
 
Inv4drZm said:
What vehicles are the 3.73 elocker 3rds found in? 2009 4th gens with the elockers and V8: what else, any tacos?
Click to expand...

3rd gen 4runners, 1st and 2nd gen tacomas, and 07-09 fj cruisers (2010+ they went to the upgraded 8.2 that the 5th gens have. mine came out of a 96 3rd gen
 
CruzadoBlanco said:
its not horrendous like me jeep was with 35s before i regeared it to 4.88s but its definitely noticeable. for city driving its fine but i know once i get on a highway with any decent hill climb its gonna be down shift city. and i just want want to get a solid spacer in there instead of the crush sleeve so i dont have what happened to Tman happen to me. at least i think it was Tman that had his R&P grenade
Click to expand...
Ya that was me... Lol
 
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