Check Engine 300, 302, 305

gapboi210

gapboi210

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I have had a rough idle for a year. But no check engine. I replaced plugs, wires, MAF cleaning, intake cleaning, fuel injector cleaning, new PCV valve but still rough idle. I drove to Austinnad the check engine was flashing and then went solid. It would flash and return back to solid the whole way there and back. Scanned it and got codes 300, 302, and 305. Cylinder 2 and 5 misfiring and I saw those are on the same coil. Guessing i have a coil thats going out. When it was flashing on the highway it was running smooth. I was wondering why it would not throw a light when it was idling and shaking but threw a code when it was running smooth. I hope a new coil fixes my idle issue too.
 
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gapboi: my 98 is doing the same thing, with the exact same error codes. was wondering what you found out....was it the coil???
 
Great, Thanks! I was thinking perhaps that IS the problem, as you mentioned cylinders 2 and 5 are on the same coil. Great Point! I am SO TIRED of watching that check engine light come on and go off, and I do not have tons of money to give to the dealership. ARGH!
 
well I got the coil in and it seemed ok but there was the flashing check engine again. I did notice one of the boots already had a hole on them. They are like 2 weeks old and they are NGK wires. Going to swap them out on warranty. I am so $%^ (*&*^%$ $%%^&** sick of every time something goes wrong with this 4Runner it is never a simple diagnosis. Always a d@mn mystery.

someone suggested i should do all the coil packs.
 
darn.....sorry that didn't do the trick. i do not know what to do with mine either, as i feel the dealership or mechanic will just be doing the same guess work as we are, yet charging alot more for the efforts. mine did good after adding fuel injector cleaner, but the light started flashing again within 2 days. keep us posted as to what you find out, and thank you for the updates.
 
Did you change the plugs when you changed the coil, they could be fouled, just another option if the new wires do not work,
 
So, yeah I noticed my NEW NGK wires had cracked at the boots where they plug into the coils. I took them back and got a new set. Still flashing check engine and now solid. I haven't scanned it yet. I am ready to throw a brick on the gas pedal and aim it towards a cliff. This thing only has 73K miles! I guess I should check the timing now........SOB
 
Yeah, I have not had the money to do a lot to mine here lately. I HOPE it is not anything to do with the timing belt, as it was just replaced about 5 months ago!
 
LET ME JUMP IN...

My Check engine light was flashing on and off every couple of days/weeks last month. But its SOLID now. I got it checked by one of my Mechanic friends and they told me 3 things.
1- MAF Sensor (cleaning/replacing ~ $250)
2- Air Temp Sensor (Auto Zone ~$125)
3- Gas Cap (~$20)

Now, i'm pretty sure that cleaning MAF will take of #1, but the air temp sensor may need to be replaced along with the gas cap, What u guys think??

gapboi! Try changing or checking ur Air Temp Sensor. It might help. I'll keep you guys posted with my Check Engine Syndrome
 
Don't think that a misfire code would be thrown because of faulty air temp sensor or gas cap. Those will usually throw codes accordingly.
 
This is a common problem I had the same thing, mine was plugs, you have to use OE COPPER plugs with the special ground electrode or it will throw a code
 
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