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[tyler.lewis]

First post here on the forum so take it easy!
This is my third Toyota 4x4 but first 3rd gen T4R. My first was a white 1992 Pickup 5 Speed and second was a 1987 22RE 4Runner! Unfortunately I totaled the 1st gen. I was 22, young and dumb, but luckily I was able to walk away unharmed. I have always been into cool cars but I’m a dad now and I need an SUV.

Now on to the fun stuff... I purchased a used 1999 Silver SR5 4Runner Auto back in January. Really nice leather interior and everything works. It has around 260k and all stock but a stereo. Judging by the previous owner, I know that he did not do much maintenance to the rig. Got it for pretty cheap because the valve covers were leaking pretty bad. First weekend I had it, I replaced valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, intake gaskets, a few vacuum lines, etc. Topped off the coolant, fired it up and it ran as smooth and quiet like those 3.4s should. Everything was great until I noticed coolant dripping onto my driveway. I checked the coolant lines going into the intake and no leaks. Then I looked down... small hairline crack on the upper tank for the radiator. How did I miss that when I was looking at the truck when I bought it?!?! I’m a mechanic for God’s sake! Oh well. Replaced the radiator and all is good.

I have been driving it about 10-15 miles every day to the next city over for work and I love this thing. But it’s getting a little boring... time to spice it up. I guess my goal for this rig is to be a cool dad adventure rig that can go on most trails and be prepared for camping while still maintaining a smooth ride for the wife, baby, and Ruger the lab. Here is my first rough shopping list for the rig. Feel free to suggest anything I might need!

Lower control Arms x2
Outer tie rods x2
Lower ball joints x2
Sway bar bushings
Lift gate struts
Cv axles x2
-—- Rockauto $445.90

Panhard correction kit
Sway bar end links
Body Lift
—— SRQ $403

Upper Control Arms
—— JBA off-road $492.93

Aluma Series 3” Toytec Lift
Bump stops
Diff Drop Kit
—— Toytec $1836.06

Falcon F1 wheels
—— eBay $860

285/75 17 Yokohama Mud Tires
—— eBay $1113

Wheel spacers
——Spidertrax $115

Lug Nuts
—— Amazon $26

$5300 rough total

I want to go big tires for the looks for sure but still willing to change tire size but looking for opinions. Also might upgrade to some method wheels for 100 bucks more but the Falcon F1 wheels in bronze look so good for a small brand company. (And bronze method wheels with the “beadlock” look are over a thousand bucks). Looking forward to your suggestions and if you know anywhere that I can get a better price let me know!

 

[Brian.]

Looks like a good enough start, though I go more for function than form so I can't comment on some of the stuff. What I want to do is point out the thing that made the Biggest difference in the quality of ride/driving experience on my '99 ~ I changed out all the bushings. Control arms, swaybars, steering rack, etc.. (didn't do body and I'm wondering if the little disconnected feeling I have is from those). You only have the swaybar end links listed in there, and the UCA would come with new bushings, but my LCA bushings were all but disintegrating and the rear control arms had a Ton of visible play.

2nd most dramatic change was new shocks/springs (don't think the springs did anything though, and the old ones were just fine), which I didn't see listed.

You're also missing the radiator as an essential (lower ball joints being the other of the essentials). You'll have a really sharp looking boat anchor if that opts to corrode through and give you pink milkshake... for $100 (oem style) or $200 (100% aluminum), it's a no-brainer replacement. Never hurts to do the timing belt/water pump/idlers/tensioner/etc... either.

Anyway, look through peoples builds, mine is linked in my sig, and absolutely watch all of Timmy and Seans videos (in the sticky above). The sticky with the better search is 100% essential for finding anything in the forums too

 

[tyler.lewis]

Looks like a good enough start, though I go more for function than form so I can't comment on some of the stuff. What I want to do is point out the thing that made the Biggest difference in the quality of ride/driving experience on my '99 ~ I changed out all the bushings. Control arms, swaybars, steering rack, etc.. (didn't do body and I'm wondering if the little disconnected feeling I have is from those). You only have the swaybar end links listed in there, and the UCA would come with new bushings, but my LCA bushings were all but disintegrating and the rear control arms had a Ton of visible play.

2nd most dramatic change was new shocks/springs (don't think the springs did anything though, and the old ones were just fine), which I didn't see listed.

You're also missing the radiator as an essential (lower ball joints being the other of the essentials). You'll have a really sharp looking boat anchor if that opts to corrode through and give you pink milkshake... for $100 (oem style) or $200 (100% aluminum), it's a no-brainer replacement. Never hurts to do the timing belt/water pump/idlers/tensioner/etc... either.

Anyway, look through peoples builds, mine is linked in my sig, and absolutely watch all of Timmy and Seans videos (in the sticky above). The sticky with the better search is 100% essential for finding anything in the forums too

Thanks for the reply Brian! Maybe I was not clear but I replaced the radiator already. Once I saw it was leaking, I replaced it within like 2 hours. And also the new shocks and springs is part of the Toytec 3” kit. I have the LCA part of the rockauto section (unless I am missing something?) but I didnt consider the rear control arms either. Maybe I should look into an upgrade on those when I do the lift!


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[99problems]

I'd skip the body lift and go for a slightly smaller 265/75/16 or 265/70/17 tire (at least on mine it perfectly aligns the speedometer to actual speed). I'd also opt for some KO2's or similar over the mud-terrains for the ride/noise factor. You also might want to consider the Tundra brake kit and stainless brake lines. Otherwise looks like a pretty comprehensive list.

 

[tyler.lewis]

I'd skip the body lift and go for a slightly smaller 265/75/16 or 265/70/17 tire (at least on mine it perfectly aligns the speedometer to actual speed). I'd also opt for some KO2's or similar over the mud-terrains for the ride/noise factor. You also might want to consider the Tundra brake kit and stainless brake lines. Otherwise looks like a pretty comprehensive list.

Brake upgrade will definitely happen! That is partly why I’m getting 17s so I will have plenty of room over the calipers. I have done some research on those Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 and it seems like they are pretty quiet for a mud terrain. They have also have an aggressive sidewall which I like. I am also used to TSL boggers 33/12.5/15 on my 83 K10... anything is quieter than those!


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[G_Raw]

Didn't look up the specs on the wheels you listed but with that lift and UCA combo you may not need to run spacers for 285s. If you do end up doing a body lift ( personally I'd only do this if you plan on 35s) you definaly shouldn't need wheel spacers. I also wouldnt go after market LCAs keep your oem ones and replace bushings. If youre worried about their integrity brace them . I think EimKeith has plates to weld up for LCA support. In terms of rear LCAs Rokmen or OptOffRoad are good options to beef up those since they can take some abuse depending on trails and wheeling you do. Otherwise your list is a pretty normal list of mods to do.

 

[ads2539]

For $115, you will only get 2 spidertrax spacers. Double that price for 4 spacers.

 

[Skulking]

The three issues I see with what you have selected is the LCA's, LBJ's, and CV's.

For the LCA's, most people just replace the bushings rather than the entire LCA. Replacing the bushings can be a pain, but the aftermarket LCA's don't seem to be built quite as strong and people have managed to bend them during hard offroading.

For the LBJ's, always use OEM, and buy OEM bolts as part of the replacement. When the LBJ's fail, it is typically catastrophic, and the more you lift your 4Runner, the harder you will be on the LBJ's, and the faster you will destroy them.

Is there an issue with your CV's? The typical recommendation is to keep your OEM CV's, and just reboot them if you need to unless they are actually damaged.

 

[T4topher]

Maintenance before mods, make sure your caught up on timing belt/radiator change out/full fluids refresh (transmission/transfercase/diffs/engine/power steering/brakes/coolant). Plugs/wires/air filter/clean MAF/pcv/valve cover gaskets if they are leaking. Also I would recommend instead of rock auto use mcgeorge Toyota parts, especially for lower ball joints. A lot of people on here prefer oem toyota parts over aftermarket.

Method has discount codes for their rims a lot of times, I think this code will get you 20% off right now STORMJEEPJL2020..

 

[tyler.lewis]

Well looks like I’m gonna do LCA bushings then! I have done the job a few times on an old C10 and I basically had to melt the rubber with a huge torch and it was a PITA. I wanted to avoid that but I like a good challenge. I will use oem Toyota (or better) parts for the bushings and LBJ.

My passenger side cv axle is leaking grease everywhere. I figured if I was going to wheel it and cv angles due to lift might as well put cheap cv axles in it rather than really strong cv axles. I guess what I’m trying to say is that I would rather break a cv than let’s say... a ring gear.

NV | Bronze Off-road Wheel - Method Race Wheels

T1 - Matte Bronze 17x9
– Falcon Off-Road Wheels

For example, if I use these wheels should I need spacers?

 

[tyler.lewis]

So I found this on the online Toyota store. Which ones should I order for a LBJ and LCA bushing replacement?

 

[Brian.]

So I found this on the online Toyota store. Which ones should I order for a LBJ and LCA bushing replacement?

I used whiteline for most bushings (relevant videos with part numbers):

8/3/19
Whiteline upper and lower rear control arm bushings, OME 906 springs and Bilstein 5160 shocks (25-268362/25-268379)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nq-lzK7CPKQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvBid-kIdiI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t015bRXd0QE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HJx6HH2yno

9/1/19
Whiteline lower front control arm bushings, OEM upper front control arm bushings, Energy steering rack bushings, Energy front and rear swaybay/endlink bushings, OEM lower ball joints, both O2 Sensors and Bilstein 6112 shocks (47-258624)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lZbAd1_EUM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmaZNBp1gZM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YywcR0E9bM4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfLvtEnX9qk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtngAVxJxkE


As for the OEM LBJ, there's a "kit" out there that might be a little cheaper:

LBJ "Kit" part number?

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Just to echo on what some people have said...

I would keep the OEM LCAs and replace the bushings. I just did this and it wasn't nearly as bad of a job as I expected. I put Whiteline bushings in mine..don't waste your time with Energy Suspension on the LCA bushings.

I would do the steering rack bushings while you are in there.

You don't need a body lift to clear 285/75-16s, just the toytec 3" will do it. The 285/70-17 would be the same height. Maybe a little "manipulation" of the fenderwell/flare will be required but my experience in the past I had to do no modification.

For the OEM LBJs TREs and such, there is a thread that has all of these OEM part numbers listed. Just google, "3rd gen 4runner forum OEM part numbers" and itll show a thread that has all these numbers. Then I took each one of those numbers and put it into amazon and baam..I found most of my parts and they were at my house in 2-3 days. A few weren't available and I got those from Camelback toyota but that took over a week and shipping sucks.

Are the sway bar end links messed up, or just the bushings? The sway bar bushing kit from energy comes with those bushings.

Trying to think of what else...

I just put the aluma series lift on mine. Almost got it buttoned up and I'm curious to see how it rides. One thing I ran into in the past was a lot of rear end vibration after the lift. What solved this for me was greasing the entire driveshaft..all of the related points. I hope that doing this first this time will prevent that from happening.

Good luck, they are such fun vehicles!

 

[3bears]

So I found this on the online Toyota store. Which ones should I order for a LBJ and LCA bushing replacement?

just glancing at this. You say you have a 99 but I think the picture and link above is for 2001 and 2002. Reason I say this is I thought the dust shield for the lower ball joints were only those years. Also , if true, the bolts that go with that are the lower torque value as well.
I had a 2000 and it did not have the dust shields and had the one piece bolts with higher torque. ( as did earlier models)
My 2001 has the dust shield and 2 piece lower torque bolts. However the ball joints are the same. I ordered new ball joints, with the early bolts and wont reuse the dust shield. One is missing anyway, prob had one ball joint replaced at one time..
otherwise Im pretty sure all the other parts are the same .
someone above mentioned the reccall kit that contains both lower ball joints at a lower price , and that is true. But my one and only local dealer is a dick and would not sell me that kit as he said they are only for dealers and for recalls....thats baloney...so orderd on line. ( only one dealer in town and next one is near 300 miles away and owned by same company)

 

[tyler.lewis]

Well I got an update boys.
I purchased some new wheels: 17x8.5 Method 305 NV matte black with machined face.
New tires: 285/70r17 Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003
New lift: 3” Bilstein 5100
Front Coils: OME 881
Rear Coils: OME 890
Rear Shocks: Long Travel (1" Extra Travel)
Front Diff Drop: Total Chaos
Panhard Correction Kit: SRQ
Upper Control Arms: JBA off-road
Extended Brake Lines: Both
Rear Trim Packers: 2
LBJ: OEM
Lower control arm bushings: white line
Sway bar bushings: white line
Steering rack bushings: white line
Panhard bar bushings: white line

I was going to go for the Toytec lift but I figured I would just roll with the Bilsteins until I can afford some King Shocks anyways.

I know there are a few things I’m missing. I forgot to order end links from SRQ but I do want to know your opinion on the difference of those vs OEM size end links. Something about 2nd gen end links right? Also going to wait to inspect the rear control arm bushings to order them. Honestly I will probably need them. Really excited to get all of my goodies! Especially the new wheels!

Oh and of course the lug nuts on the method website were back ordered. Do you recommend a certain brand of lug nuts? Or which ones to avoid? Thanks again.

 

[tyler.lewis]

Maintenance before mods, make sure your caught up on timing belt/radiator change out/full fluids refresh (transmission/transfercase/diffs/engine/power steering/brakes/coolant). Plugs/wires/air filter/clean MAF/pcv/valve cover gaskets if they are leaking. Also I would recommend instead of rock auto use mcgeorge Toyota parts, especially for lower ball joints. A lot of people on here prefer oem toyota parts over aftermarket.

Method has discount codes for their rims a lot of times, I think this code will get you 20% off right now STORMJEEPJL2020..

Thanks for the coupon code! I used it and got about 200 dollars off.


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[T4topher]

Well I got an update boys.
I purchased some new wheels: 17x8.5 Method 305 NV matte black with machined face.
New tires: 285/70r17 Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003
New lift: 3” Bilstein 5100
Front Coils: OME 881
Rear Coils: OME 890
Rear Shocks: Long Travel (1" Extra Travel)
Front Diff Drop: Total Chaos
Panhard Correction Kit: SRQ
Upper Control Arms: JBA off-road
Extended Brake Lines: Both
Rear Trim Packers: 2
LBJ: OEM
Lower control arm bushings: white line
Sway bar bushings: white line
Steering rack bushings: white line
Panhard bar bushings: white line

I was going to go for the Toytec lift but I figured I would just roll with the Bilsteins until I can afford some King Shocks anyways.

I know there are a few things I’m missing. I forgot to order end links from SRQ but I do want to know your opinion on the difference of those vs OEM size end links. Something about 2nd gen end links right? Also going to wait to inspect the rear control arm bushings to order them. Honestly I will probably need them. Really excited to get all of my goodies! Especially the new wheels!

Oh and of course the lug nuts on the method website were back ordered. Do you recommend a certain brand of lug nuts? Or which ones to avoid? Thanks again.

Going to handle like a whole new truck after all that! Looks good. I went with some cheapo Amazon splined lug nuts, not the best but they get the job done. You might need wheel spacers to clear the UCA with that tire size, I could be wrong though. I went with 1” bora spacers, spidertrax are good as well. If you go bora I wouldn’t go less than 1” or else you might have to cut your lug studs which you don’t want to do.

Black Spline Drive Lug Nuts 12x1.5 24pc + Tool Amazon.com: Black Spline Drive Lug Nuts 12x1.5 24pc + Tool: Automotive

 

[89T4runner]

I would recommend getting ET (extra thread) lugs. I use to work at a tire shop and sold A LOT of aftermarket wheels to toyotas. They almost always needed them to get a safe amount of turns on alloy wheels. Just my two cents.

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[tyler.lewis]

Delivery man sent them to the wrong house and had to roll these bad boys uphill a couple houses. They look so good!

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Dang man they do look good..aggressive as heck.